What & Where to buy Stroker Crank, Bearings & Rods?

[Glennster]

 It looks like we're going to replace the Crank and rods on the 340, I want to stay with the 416 stroker set up. Who's got a forged crank? What rods would be good to go with? The guy building my motor thinks the 273 rods are not quite strong enough....

[V02Barracuda]

Muscle Motors Racing.  Speak with Eric.  Great quality with great prices. 

I just bought a lower end for my 340 from them.  Excellent!!!!!

Good luck 

[Moparal]

Glenn, your crank can't be turned?  Cast cranks will hold the hp range you are at. a set of 300 buck h beam rods and a rebalance would be the cheaper route and still hold up. I still think the 273 rods would be suffient when built right. Your not drag racing per say, you have a street car that may get raced once in a blue moon maybe. Bigger, better, faster is always a guys motto. What you had already was working for you, you just had a failure in a part or an impropper assembly. Your budget and your car of course. But what you had a few weeks ago was a good aproach as it was. And it seems like you have a good engine builder that you can trust now, so if the rods could be resized, the crank turned, the engine re cleaned and assembled right, you may just be as well off as then spending the bigger dollars. Sorry I can't talk the small block lingo to say what is a good source for the parts you asked about in this post.  That post you made some time ago about your excessive high oil pressure did set off alarms to many builders here with questions they had in thought. This was an issue from start up

[Glennster]

 I think I'd like to go to a forged crank and some stronger rods. My cam, lifters, pistons and rings (Ross) are OK. I'm being told that the crank and rods would ''probably'' be just fine if I left everything else as is. But I may go to a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads to get a few more ponies out of the old girl. I figure what the heck, get it real nice while it's apart. I'm going to have to sell off more of the gun collection to fund this thing, I may as well go for it.

 I've got the J heads on it now, it seemed to lay down at around 4500 rpms. We think the heads just can't flow enough to breath at higher rpms. The Edelbrock heads would cure that........450 HP and at least that much torque should be easy with that set up...I THINK......

 Do you think the new crank it overkill, the old cast crank would be OK???

THANKS for the input!

[femtnmax]

you have a good engine builder that you can trust now, so if the rods could be resized, the crank turned, the engine re cleaned and assembled right, you may just be as well off as then spending the bigger dollars.

Considering your cam, typically a cam sized for a 340 won't be near big enough for a 416.   Current engine laying down at 4500 rpm could be due to a small cam designed for low-mid rpm torque, rather than blaming the heads. 
Do I think a new crank is overkill.  IMO yes.  I had a cast crank 340 that was ran hard for 120,000+ miles with no problem.
The Ross pistons you have now won't work on a 416, unless they made the rods a whole lot shorter, which they did not.  Plus the cc volume of the piston recess won't be even close between 340 and 416.   The rod length is the same 340 to 416, but not the pistons or crank of course.
So to go 416 you will need pistons, rings, stronger rods, stroker crank, complete cylinder heads with valves & springs etc, camshaft, pushrods, maybe rocker arm setup depending on what heads you buy, and probably intake manifold.   Then you need to balance the short block rotating assy.  May also need better oil pan with good baffles to keep oil down by the pickup tube.   
Do you have a locking rear differential?  That 416 will really want one.
Just food for thought.

[Glennster]

femtnmax,
Here's what the cam looks like....The motor I have was already a 416 set up, sorry, my post didn't make that clear. The rear end is already set up as you suggest.
 The reason for the new crank was to handle the 416 WITH the aluminum heads from Edelbrock (instead of the J heads I have now). I '' think '' that should make around 450 HP with a bunch of torque. There is a concern that a turned cast crank may not handle it long term........I don't know...
THANKS for your input.

[1970-cuda340]

http://www.rpmmachine.com/scat-strokerkit-chrysler-340to416-750hp.html

It's where I got mine and the service was great.

[71chally416]

No way J heads are adequate for a 416 if you want to make good HP at 6,000rpm. If they are, then why did mine pick up 60hp after porting the Commandos? THEY are even deficient in stock form for a motor that size.  I think the cast crank is fine, but the 273 rods give me the creeps. 

[quagmire]

Don't know about the rods, but I'd just get the current crank turned.  It'll be a lot cheaper and the forged won't really do anything unless you plan on making crazy power that the stock block can't even handle anyway, or if you are spinning some serious RPM's that the cam and stock Eddies will not support.  The cast cranks are good for 500HP and 6500-7000RPM easy.  IMO, it's almost pointless to run a forged crank in 90% of small block builds out there since the stock block max is about 500-550HP safely.  You'll also have to get more balancing done, and that can get pricey.

[femtnmax]

The motor I have was already a 416 set up, sorry, my post didn't make that clear.

Sorry for the mix up, my mistake.  What Edel head are you choosing, the LA style or magnum style?
Have you considered Lunati cams?  As you know the comp XE cams are ground to chevy lifter specs.  We want the most lift for the least duration. 
Some folks don't like the Edel heads, but I'm using the Edel magnum heads that come with lighter weight valves (smaller stem diameter) and 1.6 rocker ratio.  Magazine articles are showing 1.65 rocker ratio working with no extra parts weight reduction or stiffer valve springs needed.  They also have a decent combustion chamber shape.  The port bowls below the valve seats are generously sized. 
I unshrouded the valves and gained over 4cc combustion chamber volume.  Had to mill the heads 0.010 inch to reduce the volume to acceptable cc. 
I prefer the rocker shaft setup, but am accepting the chevy style rockers since I'm not turning big rpm...you probably aren't either with a stroker motor.
You should have a great engine when your done.

[Glennster]

 I believe the LA style would be the ones to go with for the 340.....I don't know much about this, but from what I saw on the Eddy site I would think that the Magnum heads were for later style motors....

[moper]

K1 makes a very nice out of the box crank too. Find a vendor close to you to minimize shipping and go for it.

[femtnmax]

from what I saw on the Eddy site I would think that the Magnum heads were for later style motors....

The magnum heads will fit the earlier LA motors, but need to have matching intake manifold, magnum head bolts and the chevy style rockers.
If you go Edy LA heads, check to see if the valve stem diameter is the same as the ones Edy uses on the magnum heads.  If this is true, then you could go 1.6 rocker ratio and get a little more lift out of the cam.

[Road_Runner]

I'm looking at building a 340 I picked up recently and have a few questions about stroking from those of you that have done this.  How did it change the behavior of your engine?  I've heard that 340s are sweet running, high rpm street engines and wondered if they are still as 'fun' to drive as strokers.  And as far as the block goes, did you have to do any grinding for clearance?  Did you have to do anything irreversible to the block?  I'm not sure a stroker is really necessary for what I'm looking to get out of mine, but I'd like to hear you folks comments to help me be sure.

Thanks, Jim

[quagmire]

I'm running a 360 based 408 stroker.  My block required no clearancing whatsoever.  I'm using KB hyper pistons, Eagle SIR rods, and a Mopar 4" cast crank, all internally balanced.  The top end uses an Eddy RPM Air Gap intake, 800cfm Thunder AVS dual feed carb, Performer RPM cam kit, and Performer RPM heads.  I  built it myself, but had the machine work done for me.  I have about 3000 hard street miles on it right now, now problems as far as engine health.  It runs fine on pump gas too.  My motor needs a bigger/better cam and head work though, it runs out of steam around 5K.  Plenty of torque too, perfect for a street motor.

The strokers can turn RPM's too, they just need more airflow.  They can make the same or more power as a stock stroke engine, it'll just peak out much lower with the same components.  I can't tell you how it compares to stock since this engine replaced a weak, worn out, bone stock 318 out of a cop car.