Author Topic: Ignition Module help  (Read 1710 times)

Offline djwhog

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Ignition Module help
« on: March 26, 2010 - 07:24:10 PM »
OK on my Cuda someone years ago added the mopar factory type electronic ignition. Since it is a 70 I am pretty sure it had a dual point dist in the 340s right...

Here is my question and need some help.

The box now on the car is a generic 5 pin box, I was looking at either getting a correct looking Mopar made 5 pin stock box, or maybe going to a orange 6k box, I also see there is a chrome 8k box.

The orange and chrome boxes use 4 pins and not five, so what gives and what what be needed or should i stay with a 5 pin box that is a stock type?  :clueless:

Besides the rpm limit increases what other advantages are there in the 2 performance boxes?

thanks guys!  :worshippy




Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Ignition Module help
« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2010 - 08:03:50 PM »
page down to page 10 of this link  http://www.mopar1.us/electronic.html

Offline djwhog

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Re: Ignition Module help
« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2010 - 10:03:52 PM »
Thank you, so it appears that if I go with a 4 pin unit I need to change the ballast as well and then the 5th pin goes for a ride? Then I can run any of the performance 4 pin units.

My car does have a factory correct harness, most likely out of a 71  or 72 car

So if I do as follows what all can you or anyone tell me about the other performance units in addition to the 6k & 8k limits? Do they offer hotter spark etc too?

Again thank you so much :)

From what I read:
Note: The ECUs used from 1972 through 1979 had five pins or connections. The new performance ECU has only four pins.

3. Reconnect the five wire connecter.
4. Remove the two connectors from the ballast resistor. Note that in each of the connectors there are two terminals. On one connector, there is usually an 18 gauge dark green wire in one terminal and a 14 gauge brown wire in the other. On the second connector, there is usually a 18 gauge light blue wire in one terminal, a 16 gauge dark blue wire in the other and an 18 gauge black wire connected from one position to the other.
5. Unbolt the old ballast resistor and install the new ballast resistor in it's place.


Note: The dual ballast resistors used from 1972 through 1979 had four terminals. The new performance single resistor has only two terminals. The two extra terminals fed the fifth pin used on the early ECUs and are not required with the performance four pin ECU.


6. On the first connector of the new ballast resistor, plug the terminal containing the 14 gauge brown wire onto one terminal of the new ballast resistor. On the second connector, plug the terminal containing the 16 gauge dark blue wire onto the other terminal of the new ballast resistor. The unused terminal on each connector will be left empty. As stated in step #5, they fed the fifth pin on the ECU and are not required on the new four pin ECU.
7. Proceed to "Basic Start Up and Adjustment"


Offline LAA66

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Re: Ignition Module help
« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2010 - 11:28:46 PM »
 Maybe check with FBO for your situation. http://www.4secondsflat.com/

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Ignition Module help
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2010 - 12:46:32 AM »
Thank you, so it appears that if I go with a 4 pin unit I need to change the ballast as well and then the 5th pin goes for a ride? Then I can run any of the performance 4 pin units.

My car does have a factory correct harness, most likely out of a 71  or 72 car

So if I do as follows what all can you or anyone tell me about the other performance units in addition to the 6k & 8k limits? Do they offer hotter spark etc too?

Again thank you so much :)


Somewhere, I had the actual pdf of the Mopar instructions, but, I did not find the link.  Far as I can see, the link I gave you is the same with regard to four or five pins.

The car I am working on had a five pin box and the green wire had been cut and was not used.  It was wired as in the diagram provided in the link with a single resistor ballast.  Being the wiring was in terrible condition, and because I don't like ballast resistors, I removed the Mopar box and installed a GM HEI module instead which simplified the wiring and got rid of the ballast.

Prior to my making the change it worked well with the five wire box using only four of them.  :)

I believe the difference between the boxes is that the Orange and Chrome versions maintain not only the ability to support higher rpms, but, they both extend the spark potential voltage across the extended range with the ability to maintain the voltage level as needed.

Offline dodj

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Re: Ignition Module help
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2010 - 06:44:16 AM »
You can change to the four pin ECU without touching anything else.  You don't need to cut any wires or change the ballast resistor unless you want to.  :2cents:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.