fuel sender pi$$ing me off

[burdar]

Thanks for posting those pics.  The other thread is long gone.  I'm saving this one.

[JayBee]

I guess the extra wire doesnt interfere with the sweep of the arm at all?

I don't think it is, but maybe mine is because I made it so long. Wish I had x-ray vision to see in there  That might explain my "reaction time" thingy. Anyway, if you do try it at least you're aware of the possibility of interference and attach the wire appropriately. I'm guessing, but when yours is in the tank and the float is floating around, that could be messing with the tiny contact point at the pivot. Good luck.

Thanks for posting those pics.  The other thread is long gone.  I'm saving this one.

You're welcome

[shadango]

    My fuel gauge is finally working.
 
 I checked my resistance sweep and got a nice 10 to 70 ohms with just a little hesitation around the 20 ohm area. So, I did that "solder a wire" recommendation, re-checked the resistance and got a nice consistent 9.5 - 70 ohms with NO hesitation around the 20 ohm area. It's very important that the range be nice and steady with no dead spots, otherwise some internal adjusting will be needed if the added wire mod doesn't achieve that.

MAN, NOTHING CAN BE EASY can it?

So I finally balled up and pulled the sending unit out.....broke out some wire strands and my little butane mini torch, some flux and some solder.

I CANNOT GET A GOOD BEAD OF SOLDER ON THE STAINLESS STEEL TO SAVE MY LIFE!!!!!

I did manage to get the wires to stick, just barely.... not sure how good a stick it is.  I dont feel real good about them.  I am wondering if one of those "cold weld" pens would work or if there is some other way to get the wires affixed.....?

The other issue --

Checked for fluctuations in the ohmeter with my wire on and off and then even with a alligator clip jumper making the connection between the arm and the tube, I dont see a real difference......right around 30-45 or so ohms it will fluctuate up and down 1-5 or so ohms...is that enough to matter? not to mention it seems like you have to have the hands of a surgeon to move the float up and down slow enough to b sure....

AAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!

[ShelbyDogg]

First of all, to solder the wire to the arm, you have to clean the spot with a file before you flux and solder it.

Second point. To measure the resistance wire in the snding unit, you need an analog ohm meter. The needle will sweep across the face smoothly without any drops to zero as you move it along it's entire travel.  You might be able to still buy one out there somewhere.     

 Any old electronics guy will have an old Simpson VOM meter for you to borrow.

[shadango]

First of all, to solder the wire to the arm, you have to clean the spot with a file before you flux and solder it.

Second point. To measure the resistance wire in the snding unit, you need an analog ohm meter. The needle will sweep across the face smoothly without any drops to zero as you move it along it's entire travel.  You might be able to still buy one out there somewhere.     

 Any old electronics guy will have an old Simpson VOM meter for you to borrow.

Thanks Rob....

I may try a regular soldering iron too.....could be I am over heating with the torch???

I had a analog meter years ago but not sure if I still have it.....why wont a digital work?

[shadango]

Well, I found this info online
http://www.ehow.com/way_6148139_can-silver-solder-stainless-steel_.html

Flux and Solder
# You must use an acid-based soldering flux specifically designed to solder stainless steel. The acid breaks down the stainless steel finish to a point where the solder will adhere. The silver content of the solder determines the strength and the melting point, as both increase with silver content. For example, 95 percent tin and 5 percent silver melts at around 400 degrees. Solder with 20 to 40 percent silver melts at roughly 700 degrees. Select a solder strong enough for your application.

So maybe I just need the right flux....but then I found this on the same page:

Also, never solder stainless steel for an electrical or electronic connection. The acid in the flux will break down an electric connection over time. Drill a hole and use a nut and bolt or screw or a rivet to make an electrical connection to stainless steel.

Read more: Can You Silver Solder Stainless Steel? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_6148139_can-silver-solder-stainless-steel_.html#ixzz14mwtgZFx

You guys both have what looks to be regular steel, not stainless, right?

[ShelbyDogg]

Just try it again with everything you had before but file off a spot first. use some extra plumbing flux if you still have a problem.

You are using flux cored solder to begin with, right?

[Roppa440]

shadango, After replacing the leaking float AND the "wire" mod I've had no problems with the gauge. One thing that does bug me a bit is it's "reaction time". What I mean is, for example, if I'm cruising and see 3/8 of a tank - then park it - then go out later, the gauge will read 1/4 and climb up slowly to almost 3/8th. Other than that it's working like a charm. I used regular electronic solder, one of those little torches that uses a butane lighter, and I believe it was 16 gauge wire. The first pic is from the Moparts board, the other 2 are mine, hope you can make them out.

I cant stress this enough, after the wire fix you have to meter the sweep and make sure it's consistent and smooth otherwise it may be time to go inside it.

I might try that trick myself. I have an aftermarket sender unit that works fine when I lift it out of the tank but when in the tank it reads empty all the time. The damn thing has driven me nuts trying to fix it.

[the_engineers]

Mine (aftermarket) stays dead for a while and then after 30 mins (or more) starts working.  What does that indicate?

[ShelbyDogg]

While the sending unit is out, sand off a little spot on the outside metal , by the exit tube, then solder a piece of wire to it.  I run this wire to a ground screw on the shock cross member.  Then you don't have to worry about the ground clip rusting away or losing connection.

[shadango]

Just try it again with everything you had before but file off a spot first. use some extra plumbing flux if you still have a problem.

You are using flux cored solder to begin with, right?

yep...also tried extra plumbing flux.

I'll try filing/grinding as you suggested and see if i can get some joy.

Thanks for the help.

[shadango]

All right.....paid better attention to the sanding/filing of the spots to be soldered and I got a better bond.....still not beautiful, but definitely connected well now.

From the original post on Moparts I remember the guy said "solder a strand or two".......so I took a piece of 12 gauge ignition wire and took one of the strands and used that.  I was concerned that too much wire would interfere with the arm and its action.

In retrospect I am wondering if that will be "enough".    Maybe I should have used a few strands from a smaller wire instead?   But I guess I'll find out when I reinstall the thing.

PITA.

I was able to borrow a Simpson meter from a buddy (real nice meter) and will check the sweep tonight.

Should it be perfect as far as the sweep or will there still be slight variations like with the digital meter?

[brads70]

Sheesh! I can't believe the grief your having with this? I bought a fuel sender from Dave at Roseville last spring as mine was acting up too. I STILL haven't installed it yet as the original seems to be working again for the time being? I'm planning on swapping it out during the winter.

[shadango]

If this doesnt work I plan on swapping out the gauge and running a new wire....but the way mine acts I have a hard time thinking its the latter.  The gauge could have dead spots I guess.

[ShelbyDogg]

From the original post on Moparts I remember the guy said "solder a strand or two".......so I took a piece of 12 gauge ignition wire and took one of the strands and used that.  I was concerned that too much wire would interfere with the arm and its action.

In retrospect I am wondering if that will be "enough".    Maybe I should have used a few strands from a smaller wire instead?   
Should it be perfect as far as the sweep or will there still be slight variations like with the digital meter?

Should be a good sweep with no drops wherever you move it to.  If you see drop offs, open it up then bend the sweep arm to add a little more pressure to the resistance wire.  Old ones eventually wear off the contact point so don't over bend it.
I would have used a whole small wire, insulation and all.  One strand will break off sooner than you think. A small wire will not be able to hold your float down anyway.

Try the sending unit while out of the tank with jumper wires running to it, so you can see the dash. Why go through all of the trouble of installing it to test it?