Clutch replacement help...

[repo68]

Hi all,

Is there a link or archive somewhere on this site that shows step by step a clutch replacement?   I'm in the process of disassembling my '70 Chally and have a few questions.

When removing the trans, should the bellhousing be removed with it?  From the '68 manual I have, it looks like it stays attached to the engine block, but I'm not sure.  Can the flywheel be removed and replaced with it in place?  I read that if it's removed, it needs to be recentered, so I'm hoping it doesn't need to come off.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Pete

[sleepychallenger]

It can be taken out together or appart. I Prefer to take the trans off the bell housing and then take the bell out...just provideds more room. The bell has to come out to service the flywheel.

[Chryco Psycho]

I remove the tranny first , then the clutch & flywheel can be removed with the bel on or off but it is easier with it off

[repo68]

Thanks, guys.  I'll start with the trans and see how much room there is.

[repo68]

Well, I got the trans out, but had a little mishap.  While trying to separate the trans, I accidentally released the jack so it dropped down maybe 6-10".  I quickly jacked it back up, but for those 10 seconds or so, the trans was hanging down from the shaft quite a bit.  I'm not sure how much of the total weight was hanging since the back of the trans was still in contact with the jack (I had a trans adapter for the jack, so the cross member mount was still in contact). 

After the trans was finally down, I noticed a lot of end play in the shaft.  I measured about 1/8" total play at the end, which seems like a lot.  I have no idea what is normal though.  And I don't know what kind of condition the trans was in when I bought the car, other than it seemed to work okay.  Anyway, now I'm worried I may have damaged something. 

I hate to think I caused this, but even if it's due to wear, do I need to rebuild it?  What do you guys think? 

[Chryco Psycho]

if the play is vertical it is normal , if the play is in & out horizontally it will need a new brg for sure ,
 either way you did no cause the problem 

[repo68]

Thanks, Chryco...  The play is vertical.  What a relief.

[Chryco Psycho]

 
this is why you need a pilot brg for the front of the input shaft

[Aussie Challenger]

Before replacing the clutch either replace the spigot bearing, it is cheap, or at least lube it with a bit of grease or the bush will squark.   

[repo68]

Makes perfect sense now.  The shaft would otherwise be overconstrained.  I read in this forum about a roller bearing replacement for the brass bushing.  Seems like it would be better than the bushing, but I also thought I read somewhere about heat being a potential problem.  What do you guys recommend? 

Thanks again for your help.

Pete

[Aussie Challenger]

Bearing or bush your choice, I have bought a bearing for my 4 spd conversion but that is in case the crank is not drilled. I have always fitted a new bush when changing clutches and never had a problem so long as they are lubed, don't use too much though.   

[Chryco Psycho]

Bushing is $2
the brg is $22
 both work , but I prefer the bushing if the crank is drilled , grease the bushing & there is nothing to fail

[femtnmax]

grease the bushing & there is nothing to fail

When you install the clutch disc and pressure plate on the flywheel, make sure the clutch disc "front" is facing the flywheel, then install all the pressure plate bolts. The rear of the disc has a step-up with the clutch disc torsion springs easily visible.  Tighten 1 or 2 of the pressure plate bolts just enough that the clutch disc can still be moved around but stays in position when you let go of the disc.  Rather than needing a separate tool to center the clutch disc with the crankshaft pilot bushing, I center the disc approximately, then feel the step or gap between the outer diameter of the clutch disc as compared to the outer diameter of the pressure plate surface that contacts the clutch disc.  Typically the clutch disc is a little smaller diameter than the pressure plate, so it is easy to "feel" the difference in diameter.  Keep pushing the disc around with your fingers until it is centered all the way around real well, then tighten up the pressure plate bolts and the assembly of the (trany/bellhousing with clutch release bearing and release fork) is ready to install.
When you go back together, many times it is easier to align the trany input shaft with the crank pilot bearing if the bellhousing is attached to the trany, then fit the that assembly to the engine block.  The larger diameter surface of the bellhousing is easier to check for parallel with the back of the engine block...than if your trying to make the trany parallel with the back of the bellhousing.  I check for parallel from both sides..thats drivers side and passenger side, and also check from above looking down over the back of the engine intake manifold.  As you engage the trany input shaft with the clutch disc sometimes I have to rotate the crankshaft a little to allow the teeth to line up between the trany input shaft and clutch disc.  hope this helps a little

[Aussie Challenger]

As you engage the trany input shaft with the clutch disc sometimes I have to rotate the crankshaft a little to allow the teeth to line up between the trany input shaft and clutch disc.  hope this helps a little

I just select any gear and slide the gearbox in holding the output shaft, this allows the clutch input shaft to pick up a spline.   
If you don't have an aligning tool or an old input shaft just bolt the pressure plate up lightly, install the bell housing if you have removed it, then slide the gearbox in and it will allow the clutch plate to move while the gearbox is pushed home.
Don't forget to tighten up the pressure plate afterwards.   

[repo68]

Sorry I haven't looked at this post for awhile.  Kind of got distracted with starting a new job recently. Anyway, thanks for all of the advice.  I haven't been able to get the pilot bushing out, since trying with a cut off 3/4" bolt & grease.  Looks like the diameter wasn't large enough (only pushed out the grease, and the bush never even budged).  I'll give it another try tomorrow - thinking I might try wrapping the bolt with clear shipping tape until it has a good fit with the bushing bore.  Probably won't work, but maybe I'll get lucky.

It sounds like removing the bellhousing is the best option to line everything back up.  I managed to get everything disassembled with it still on (was trying to minimize removing even more parts).   To remove it, it looks like I need to remove the starter and I'll probably need to loosen the header bolts too so I can get to the bottom 2 bellhousing bolts. I was hoping to avoid all that. I'm in pretty deep already, so I guess it's not really that much more.   

Thanks again for all the help!

-Pete