can i wetsand burned glazed/burned clearcoat?

[505challenger]

i had my challenger painted buy "some guy" who was trying to get his paint and body shop off the ground and have some issues with it.  the only reason i didnt paint it myself was because i dont have heaters in garage and it was winter, but apparently neither did he   .  when i got the car back(after him having it for 2 months)  the clear was no where near cured, i could indent it easily with my fingernail.  in the "deal" he was supposed to wetsand it too, i brought it up 3 times just to be sure.  well his definition of wetsand is to hit it with the buffer and rubbing compound, and the clear wasnt even cured!!!!!!! so needless to say the clear is sort of glazed.  i know youre generally supposed to colorsad with 800, 1000, 1500... andthen polish.  so is there a  way to save my paintjob?  can i wetsand it with 1500, or is it too late?

[72cudamaan]

Well, if the clearcoat hasn't cured yet it never will. Sounds like your screwed. My opinion you probably have to strip it off and start over. Just my  and I hope I'm wrong. Hopefully someone else will chime in with a more favorable solution.

[72bluNblu]

You say this guy had your car for two months,  but how old is the clear coat?

If he applied the clear coat two months ago I'd say your paint is toast. Even without hardener it should have hardened by now, if it hasn't you're pretty much going to have to start over.

If its less than a week old, I'd say you might have a chance of it hardening up and being able to wetsand it at some point. Realistically though, the paint shouldn't be that soft if its any more than 3-5 days old. And, even if it does harden, we're obviously not dealing with a great paint job. The clear may not be thick enough to get rid of the buffing marks without breaking through the clear.

[505challenger]

im sorry for the confusion.   the clear IS cured and hardened now, but he used the buffer and rubbing compound when it wasnt cured and glazed the clearoat.  now the clear is cured and im wondering if i can wetsand the "glaze-job" off the clear? is that possible or will it always look like that?

[ted]

imho you have nothing to loss by trying

[snowdog]

Well, without seeing the actual paint it's hard to give advice.  I would recommend that you start on panel that isn't as likely to be seen.  Like the lower valances or the very bottom of the 1/4 panel.  That way if something does go wrong it won't be out in the open for everybody to see.  Do one panel at a time and stay away or be very careful around the edges with the sand paper and rubbing wheel.  They are the first spots to burn thru.  Also, use a very flexible rubber pad / squeegee to wrap your sand paper around, do not use hard plastic block or paint sticks.  If you don't use something flexible you'll burn thru at the slightest body imperfection.  And don't forget to use some soap in your water when wet sanding, it makes the sandpaper move smoothly. A couple of drops in your bucket should do it.  Do a search for wet sanding here on this site, lots of good tips from before.

Se ya,

Snowdoggie

[elitecustombody]

505, my understanding is the guy burned the surface of the clear when he was buffing and you're trying to get rid of those spots,am I right? If so, you'd have to wrap some paper arond sanding block and sand down those areas,probably 1000 grit and finish up with 2000 or finer,then buff