Disaster *DIVERTED!*

[shadango]

you should have compressed the valve and i bet the rag would have pulled right out 

Well, I didnt have the right tool to do it, and I figured rotating the engine thru would be the same thing....we tried a while with the intale on and the rags were stuck.  Plus I didnt know how much would have been still in there for sure or if anything else was wrong (like a bent rod)....

Once we pulled the intake the rag slowly backed out with each time we compressed that valve.......it still took many turns....it must have really been wrapped in there....not sure how.

[dodge freak 2]

The old channel-o-locks on the rocker arm works to compress the valve spring.

 

[shadango]

The old channel-o-locks on the rocker arm works to compress the valve spring.

If I just compressed the spring, wouldnt I risk popping teh keepers out and then dropping the valve in the head?

[shadango]

just cut a piece of the old intake gasket to cover the center crossover hole in the head , there is no downside to blocking the port off.
Yes you can do a compression test as it sits , the other missing pieces oif rag are probably chopped to bits & will burn off & pass through easily  .
You can pull the rockers & just roll the pushrod from the cylinder the rag was in  to be sure it is straight , the rockers torque to 18 lbs if I remember right , the torque is low to prevent ovaling the rocker shaft

Thanks Chryco. 

Blue locktite will be enough I assume?

[Chryco Psycho]

if you lean on the valve tip the locks will stay in place
I have never used locktite on the rocker shaft bolts just torqued them

[shadango]

if you lean on the valve tip the locks will stay in place
I have never used locktite on the rocker shaft bolts just torqued them

Yeah?  Ok.  17lbs doesnt seem all that tight in a vibration monster like mine...LOL thats why I asked.

Can you clue me in a little more on how to make the gasket piece for the block-off?  The gaskets I have (Edelbrock)  have the port for the crossover cut out....how do I add a piece of gasket to cover the port without doubling up in that area? Do I need to  make the current hole in the gasket BIGGER (so the piece doesnt just fall into the port) and then cut a piece to fill that hole?

Do you like using real gaskets at the ends of the intake or do you just use RTV? I dont want leaks. Edelbrock says to use RTV.

Sorry for all the lame questions guys....this is all new to me, really.

[shadango]

Well, the affected cylinder seems to be holding pressure just fine....

Still doesnt mean I am out of the woods yet but at least I have a chance, right?

So now onto reinstalling the intake.

WHat is the best way to install these edelbrock gskets?  They have rubber rings around the ports on one side of the gasket, none on the other. The instructions dont say anything as far as what side goes to the head....

The instructions say to use RTV at the ends (1/4" bead), making sure to overlap the gasket corners and a thin film around the water jacket openings on the intake manifold side only.

They say to use "Gasgacinch" on the gaskets to hold them in place during assembly....I don't have any of that...I have  tube of Hylomar HPF...could I use that and if so how much? 

[bb71challenger]

Just caught up to this thread. Sorry you had that happen but I am glad that all seems to be well. Unless the valve was held open enough for the piston to hit I dont think there would be any damage at all. Great idea to block off the crossover while you have the intake off though   

[dodge freak 2]

If I just compressed the spring, wouldnt I risk popping teh keepers out and then dropping the valve in the head?

Yes but I meant to the valve with the spring. Just pry the rocker arm down while its on the shaft  next time.

[dodge freak 2]

Say you did drain the rad before you started--better yet pull a lower bolt from the timing cover too. That way you get no water in the motor.

[barracuda7199]

Well, the affected cylinder seems to be holding pressure just fine....

Still doesnt mean I am out of the woods yet but at least I have a chance, right?

So now onto reinstalling the intake.

WHat is the best way to install these edelbrock gskets?  They have rubber rings around the ports on one side of the gasket, none on the other. The instructions dont say anything as far as what side goes to the head....

The instructions say to use RTV at the ends (1/4" bead), making sure to overlap the gasket corners and a thin film around the water jacket openings on the intake manifold side only.

They say to use "Gasgacinch" on the gaskets to hold them in place during assembly....I don't have any of that...I have  tube of Hylomar HPF...could I use that and if so how much? 

the rubber rings your talking about should be in the intake side. i don't run the end seals just a good wide tall bead of silicone. a little around the water passages isn't a bad idea. i use a little bit of weatherstrip adhesive to hold the gasket to the head. make sure you get as much of the water out as possible and change the oil before you start it back up. i bet you are fine with no harm at all.

[shadango]

Just caught up to this thread. Sorry you had that happen but I am glad that all seems to be well. Unless the valve was held open enough for the piston to hit I dont think there would be any damage at all. Great idea to block off the crossover while you have the intake off though   

I wimped out on the blocking of the crossover this time around....I didnt have anything I thought would work...edelbrock suggested a very thin piece of stainless shim, Chryco suggested a piece of the old gasket.....I decided to leave the crossover open for now....I have plans to at some point pull the intake and paint it anyways.....this install is really just to try and get back to where I was and make sure the motor will still run OK.

I know I know..I shoulda done it while I was in there.

What can I say...I wimped out.....   

[shadango]

Say you did drain the rad before you started--better yet pull a lower bolt from the timing cover too. That way you get no water in the motor.

I drained the rad to right below the top hose and then drained the manifold by popping the water-pump-to-manifold-hose (that little curvy one in front)....seemed to do the trick...didnt get a lot when I pulled the intake.  Got some though, so I am planning on changing the oil prior to test firing.

[shadango]

the rubber rings your talking about should be in the intake side. i don't run the end seals just a good wide tall bead of silicone. a little around the water passages isn't a bad idea. i use a little bit of weatherstrip adhesive to hold the gasket to the head. make sure you get as much of the water out as possible and change the oil before you start it back up. i bet you are fine with no harm at all.

Thanks...yeah, i ended up calling edelbrock and they said the rubber rings face the intake.

Not sure it would really make a difference...not sure why they dont have them on BOTH sides, really.

I put a thin film of RTV around the water ports on the intake and the head, and a couple small spots to hold the gasket in place and then used the bead of silicone at the ends.  I hope I got those 'tall" enough. Didnt seem to have a lot squishing out when I placed the intake on....but I may have kept closer toward the inside edges.

Those end seals dont hold back pressure, right? Just splashing?  The foam seals I had in there didnt seem all that swift but didnt seem to leak much..a little seepage mayeb.

I do know I spent a good 90 minutes cleaning the mating surfaces....so THAT wont be my problem if there is one....LOL

I still have a couple hours of stuff to do....drain and refill oil, reconnect all the stuff I disconnected to pull the intake, water pump belt, add coolant, install the carb again...etc etc etc

How long do you guys typically let RTV set up on an intake before running the engine?  The tube says 24 hrs.....

[Chryco Psycho]

I will let it set up for a couple of hours anyway
Yes the end seals do hold pressure , the PCV is trying to drop the pressure inside the engine .