Author Topic: Dropping K member to change rear main seal  (Read 3539 times)

Offline Kevin71

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 575
Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« on: April 24, 2010 - 09:01:03 PM »
Can you drop the K member and pull the oil pan and then change the rear main seal.  It was suggested to me as opposed to pulling the engine?  Has anyone ever tried this .  My son changed a oil pan on a 2004 Mustange by doing this.  Said it was much easier.  He chained a engine hoist to the engine to support it.  Then unbolted the k member and dropped it down out of the way. 




Offline the_engineers

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2639
  • Cheap, fast, reliable...pick 2
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2010 - 09:14:23 PM »
I can drop the oil pan on my 360 without pulling the K-member...done it a couple of times.  Is this a big block or small block?
Brooks

1971 'Cuda 360
2004 Infiniti G35 6-spd Coupe
2001 Toyota Solara Convertible
2002 GMC Savana 1500 Explorer Hightop Conversion
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger...keeping the Slant.  Rocking the turbos.

Offline Kevin71

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 575
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2010 - 10:48:16 PM »
It's a big block

Offline the_engineers

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2639
  • Cheap, fast, reliable...pick 2
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2010 - 11:28:42 PM »
Might be even easier...small block oil pans have to clear the crank.  Try it before dropping the K.  You can always end up doing it.
Brooks

1971 'Cuda 360
2004 Infiniti G35 6-spd Coupe
2001 Toyota Solara Convertible
2002 GMC Savana 1500 Explorer Hightop Conversion
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger...keeping the Slant.  Rocking the turbos.

Offline stp_is_me

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 22
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2010 - 11:33:39 PM »
If you drop your K-member what is going to hold your engine up. Mounts are on K-member. Might be easier to just loose mounts and raise engine a few inches.
~~~~SHANE~~~~

1971 Dodge Challenger

Offline Strawdawg

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2209
    • Vortex Buicks
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2010 - 12:15:56 AM »
If you drop your K-member what is going to hold your engine up.

he mentioned supporting the engine with a hoist ;)

Offline stp_is_me

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 22
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2010 - 12:33:43 AM »
oops, Sorry missed that
~~~~SHANE~~~~

1971 Dodge Challenger

Offline 422STROKER

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5386
  • Member Since 6/3/06
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2010 - 07:06:57 PM »
Drop the center link and the pan should come off no?

Tom :dunno:
Tom
12.77 @ 108.87 15" Street Drag radial tires 3.23 gear

Offline Kevin71

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 575
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2010 - 08:54:06 PM »
I decided to go ahead and just pull the engine.  I was worried that I would get all this unbolted underneath and still have to go and pull the engine.  Just didn't want to do more than I had too. 

Offline Kevin71

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 575
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2010 - 08:55:04 PM »
Started disconecting everything today and will rent a lift tomorrow and hopefully get the engine out tomorrow evening.

Offline Chryco Psycho

  • Administrator
  • C-C.com Guru
  • *****
  • Posts: 36620
  • 70 Challenger R/T SE 70 tube Chassis Cuda now sold
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2010 - 03:38:40 AM »
you are definatly doing it the hard way , the pan will drop out with the center link disconnected , removing the engine from the bottom is also easier

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline the_engineers

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2639
  • Cheap, fast, reliable...pick 2
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2010 - 09:00:38 PM »
 :iagree: Lift the car instead of the motor.  Look around several have posted pics of doing it this way.
Brooks

1971 'Cuda 360
2004 Infiniti G35 6-spd Coupe
2001 Toyota Solara Convertible
2002 GMC Savana 1500 Explorer Hightop Conversion
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger...keeping the Slant.  Rocking the turbos.

Offline Kevin71

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 575
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2010 - 11:21:18 PM »
I also have to change the oil pick up.  I put a deep sump pan on when I had the engine out to paint the car.  It's just to low.  I am going to a stock Mildon pan.  The paint shop pulled the engine.  I now have just about everything disconnected. I am having trouble figuring out if I should unbolt the motor mounts at the block. OR  There looks like a long bolt going all the way thru the center of the mounts that if pulled would seperate the motor mount.  Trying to get around the headers to the bolts on the block doesn't look possible.  Any suggestions.  I believe at this point I should have tried removing the K frame.  I also need to change the rear main seal.  Any suggestions on brands that would work better than another.

Offline moper

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2368
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #13 on: April 27, 2010 - 11:56:01 AM »
I also think you took the long way around...lol. But... Teh bolts you undo are the one-per-side 5/8 headed bolts that run thru the mounts to the K frame. Pass side goes from front to back, driver's side from back to front. Both easy to reach with a socket and extention.

Offline Kevin71

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 575
Re: Dropping K member to change rear main seal
« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2010 - 06:35:38 PM »
Well I gonna just call it practice for when I really need to pull it.  I plan on rebuilding the engine in the future as I don't have a clue whats been done to the inside.  It runs ok but doesn't seem to have as much power as it should.  It's a 73 block with the open chamber heads so it probable doesn't have much compression.  I would like to get it up to 400 to 450 HP someday.  Thanks for the advice.