just wet sanded my car, now what?

[505challenger]

just got finished wetsanding my car, but am wondering what to do now.  ive read that i should use rubbing compound, then scratch remover then polish.  i bought some meguires ultimate compound and it says it eliminates the need for rubbing compound and scratch remover, think thats true ?  if not than what do you guys recomend?  and also i plan on using a rotary buffer to polish, any tips on what not to do? ive read that you need to be very careful with a rotary buffer

[Killer_Mopar]

Dont know about meguire's ultimate kit. I use a kit that 3M sells that brings the rubbing compound, swirl remover, and polish. The rubbing compound is a little rough, so I switch it for the finer compound 3M makes (my local bodyshop lets me switch no charge). The kit is something like 80-90 bucks I think. Anyhow, use a regular buff wheel for the compound and a foam pad for the polish. Other than making sure not to burn the paint by staying in place too long....watch out for corners and make sure you are moving with the corner instead of against it. If you are unsure about the thickness of the paint on the corners, then stay away from them because they are easy to burn. Just be careful, take your time, think ahead, and you should be fine. Also if you happen to have challenger emblems on the fender, please make sure to remove them....they can catch and they WILL bend (dont ask ) After the polish, I usually put a coat of carnuba wax on....

[72hemi]

First what grit sandpaper did was your finest grit that you wet sanded with (should be 2000)? I use 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing compound. I have used Meguirs, Race Glaze, Mothers, Turtle Wax and now Adam's, and I would say go with Adam's. They have I believe a 3 step process and their products aren't the cheapest but they are made in America and are of very high quality and will give you a great shine and reflection.

[wally426ci]

 

[505challenger]

yes i sanded with 2000 grit, i just came back from napa and picked up a wool buffing pad and a foam polishing pad, i hope these are steps in the right direction.  i didnt get polish yet

[72hemi]

If you go with the Adam's products they use their own pads that match each product.

[OxfordMotorSports]

 

A few of the comments posted on the paint forum threads scare me. Here you go on the polishing end of a paint job.

For the ultimate finish go with 1500 to 2000 grit paper. Buffing speed should be between 1500 and 1750. Use a 3M Superbuff III Wool Pad #05703 with Extra Cut Compound #05936. NOW PAY ATTENTION. When you are done with this step clean the surface with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and distilled water. Then re-polish any spots you have missed. Your next pad on the polisher will be a 3M foam pad #05725 with Machine Glaze #05937 again staying between 1500 and 1750 rpm. Wait 60 days to wax the finish and use a quality non-abrasive Carnauba wax.

I never shoot cheap paint. It's all or nothing. Take care when you are buffing it.

Todd

Oxford Motor Sports

[dutch]

what`s the 60 days waiting for?   

[Scat Pack Fever]

Make sure you mask off areas that you don't want to have to wipe off. I made the mistake of not masking off my door jams and the compound dried and it is tuff to remove. I went to put on my T/A stripe that wraps around the front edge of the door and I found a big clup of dried compound that I didn't see. It was also everywhere in my engine bay. If I would have taken the time to mask it off, I would have saved a lot of aggrivation. I also made a mess of my shop because I didn't cover anything it goes everywhere. I now have white dots everywhere. 

The next car I paint will be apart and I will rub out each panel away from the car.

[OxfordMotorSports]

what`s the 60 days waiting for?   

Never seal a new paint job. Let it breath. 60 days is my general rule but you don't have to wait quite so long if you wish. I'm talking about an air dry paint job which I'm certain the majority of the posters on these threads get.

[dutch]

ah...  makes sense allright...       mine was baked and painted in december....guess it`s dry by now 

[Justins72]

You have to be very careful using a wool pad and regular rotorary buffer as you could end up burning the paint. I would suggest after the wool pad to use an orbital buffer like the porter cable so you don't burn the paint and you can adjust the speed.

[72hemi]

Never seal a new paint job. Let it breath. 60 days is my general rule but you don't have to wait quite so long if you wish. I'm talking about an air dry paint job which I'm certain the majority of the posters on these threads get.

Oh that's right. Sorry my last few have all been baked out.

[HemiDog]

Norton makes a good kit that I have used with good success.   They call it Liquid Ice and depending on your equipment comes with all the pads, wet sand paper, and compound.

[OxfordMotorSports]

You have to be very careful using a wool pad and regular rotorary buffer as you could end up burning the paint. I would suggest after the wool pad to use an orbital buffer like the porter cable so you don't burn the paint and you can adjust the speed.

Wrong. So I'll post it again.


For the ultimate finish go with 1500 to 2000 grit paper. Buffing speed should be between 1500 and 1750. Use a 3M Superbuff III Wool Pad #05703 with Extra Cut Compound #05936. NOW PAY ATTENTION. When you are done with this step clean the surface with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and distilled water. Then re-polish any spots you have missed. Your next pad on the polisher will be a 3M foam pad #05725 with Machine Glaze #05937 again staying between 1500 and 1750 rpm. Wait 60 days to wax the finish and use a quality non-abrasive Carnauba wax.

I never shoot cheap paint. It's all or nothing. Take care when you are buffing it.

The only people who burn their paint while buffing don't know how to buff.

The above process is the ONLY WAY to do it correctly. If you don't know how to do it send your car to a pro.

Todd

OMS