MY 70 that I thought I would just freshen up under the hood before planting the

[Matt]

Well I thought that I would just clean things up on my car under the hood (am building a 416 stroker out of my 340 block ,trick heads, rollerized etc0 wanted to make sure things were going to be strong enough for the 500 hp engine and 4 gear ) ..It had a resto 18 years back.. before you could get all the sheet metal that was available today.. all the exterior panels are great but underneath was an other story.. oh well it is a 70 4 gear.. i guess i am going to keep it for a few years now....repacing everything from the floors forward.. roof is great.. but that is all (canada eh? winter salt you know?? )         Wish me luck  ..Matt Guelph ontario

[Canadian Cuda]

  isnt that the way it goes... you'll appreciate it in the end 

[Matt]

Hey Geoff did you go through something similar.? .. I use to read some of the threads and say holy cow to myself...what are those guys getting into?   and I own a  full service shop and still it scarred me! .....thanks for the encouragement.. Matt

[Canadian Cuda]

kind of, when i started i only saw one loonie size whole in the bottom of my cowl, and by the time i finished i put in about twelve patches from the windshield forward granted my car didnt look as good as yours before but same idea. it wasnt the road salt that got mine, it was the two inches of mud and leafs packed into my cowl. Are you doing a repaint on the fenders and stuff aswell or just the inners? you can see what i did in the resto thread.

[73RallyeChallenger]

Hi Matt, Is that you operating the sandblast equipment? What kind of media were you using? Weren't you worried and damaging the paint on the back half of the car, or are you repainting that as well?

[moparmaniac59]

Using baking soda?? Works good on old paint, but doesn't do so good on rust. That car looks sweet!! Nice job!!


                                             Matt B.

[OxfordMotorSports]

Using baking soda?? Works good on old paint, but doesn't do so good on rust. That car looks sweet!! Nice job!!


                                             Matt B.

 

Sodium bicarbonate can be purchased in very aggressive formulations that work well on heavy rust. It is also a excellent degreaser. I use a combination of sodium bicarbonate, white aluminum oxide and walnut shells at my shop. They are all very user friendly and the results are exceptional. I blasted tons of sand when I was younger and it isn't fun. Be careful - it can make you very sick. Fresh air and a good respirator are the only way to go when using ANY TYPE of media.

This is what I would do if the car above was my project. Blow it off with a powerful leaf blower first. I use a electric one. They throw a lot of air and will get the majority of blast media off your car. Then follow up with your air compressor air . Shop vac last. Don't miss anything.

I personally spray all of my vehicles with House of Kolors KP2CF Chromate Free Kwikure Epoxy Primer. DO NOT USE ANY ACID BASE PRODUCTS UNDER KP2CF - self etching primer etc. They are not necessary. KP2CF is brutal. Use it.

Todd

[JonS]

Todd,

Where do you typically purchase your media and what ratios do you typically mix them at (if you don't mind my asking).  I'm getting ready to blast my 71 and this topic is very helpful.

Thanks,

Jon

[OxfordMotorSports]

Todd,

Where do you typically purchase your media and what ratios do you typically mix them at (if you don't mind my asking).  I'm getting ready to blast my 71 and this topic is very helpful.

Thanks,

Jon

Sandblasting is a pretty basic process. You don't have to "mix" anything. I don't know what type of blaster you will use. I have two - a 300lbs Clemco and the same in the Lindsey set up in a blast room. How much air do you have available? Use a small tip.
 

I like using the Aluminum Oxide because the beads come in grits just like sandpaper. 16-24-36-60-80-180-220. I like the 80 grit - it's not overly harsh. Walnut is quite hard believe it or not and can be reused if the surface you are blasting is free of grease. Small grain on the Walnut size. As for the Soda I use formula 300 Soda blast. This is great for areas where grease is an issue.
It's not much of a science. All of the above media are far more easy to work with than sand. DEGREASE THE ENTIRE AREA TO BE BLASTED WITH PURPLE POWER AND A PRESSURE WASHER.

 It is not cheap and because of that I buy it in bulk for cost effectiveness. You can reuse it if you blast on a slab or huge tarp.

For blast media contact:

www.kramerindustriesonline.com

1-888-515-9443

www.toolusa.com

800-451-2425

Todd

[JonS]

Todd,

Thank you for the tips.  Based on your comments, and what I've just witnessed a friend go through... I'd like to find an alternative to straight sand blasting, hence my question.

Your comments are really helpful.  I work at a countertop fabrication shop (granite, marble, etc.) that happens to have a lot of car enthusiasts.  Because of all the fabrication we do, we already have a lot of the proper building ventilation, masks, etc. to do the job.  Our shop compressor puts out ~ 100CFM at 175psi, so I'm ok for air as well.

Lastly, I'm assuming you heat / scrape the undercoating before blasting or is the media abrasive enough to remove that as well?

Jon

[OxfordMotorSports]

Todd,

Thank you for the tips.  Based on your comments, and what I've just witnessed a friend go through... I'd like to find an alternative to straight sand blasting, hence my question.

Your comments are really helpful.  I work at a countertop fabrication shop (granite, marble, etc.) that happens to have a lot of car enthusiasts.  Because of all the fabrication we do, we already have a lot of the proper building ventilation, masks, etc. to do the job.  Our shop compressor puts out ~ 100CFM at 175psi, so I'm ok for air as well.

Lastly, I'm assuming you heat / scrape the undercoating before blasting or is the media abrasive enough to remove that as well?

Jon

I'll tell you how I do it. I'll use the car that started this thread and the pictures that are posted. I always degrease an entire vehicle before I start a restore with Purple Power and a pressure washer. THE ENTIRE CAR. Under the hood, wheel wells, under structure and anything else I can get to. If I were doing the car above I would have bagged the remainder of the car. Media dust is now in every nook and cranny of that car. I'm not knocking his method - but who needs extra clean up.

Media blasting will remove EVERYTHING in it's way including the undercoating. I have in the past chemical stripped (spray on) extremely thick undercoating to save on abrasive usage. A putty knife will peel the stuff right off. If I were concerned about contamination to the bare metal while blasting I would come back over the bare metal with HOK KC20 Post Sanding Cleaner. I don't wipe it on - I use a spray bottle and let it air dry or blow it off dry.

Let me make something very clear. I love restoring automobiles. I have extreme patience. I never cut corners. Ready for the shocker? I'd rather chemical strip a panel over sandblasting any chance I get but the blaster is the only way to remove the rust. It is a necessary evil in the restoration process and if you don't take care you'll ruin your vehicle. Paper thin metal is not the end result you are shooting for. Keep the blaster moving just like your paint gun.

The compressor at your shop will do the job. I generally use 3/16 to 1/4 tungsten carbide nozzels on my blasters. You could get by using ceramic.

Sandblast like you would paint. Keep it moving and feather the nozzle around severe rust areas - even if you blow through a section. Don't just hold it dead on the metal. Stay away from large flat panels if you can.

Todd

OMS

PS - BAG THE CAR!

[E-Body Products]

I too agree with the chemical strip vs. blasting.  If you use a razor blade and let the stripper do the work, you can even salvage most of the OEM phosphate coatings on your OEM panels.   

I would blast in engine bays and tight spots as these areas would be difficult to scrape off.

[OxfordMotorSports]

I too agree with the chemical strip vs. blasting.  If you use a razor blade and let the stripper do the work, you can even salvage most of the OEM phosphate coatings on your OEM panels.   

I would blast in engine bays and tight spots as these areas would be difficult to scrape off.

WOW! I just took a look at your E-body link and caught the pics of the Cuda resto.  VERY NICE WORK. Nice welding all around and your floor pans look fantastic.

Back on topic. I'm glad you agree with me on the stripper issue. Most people screw that up too. Leave the sandblasting for the rust areas. Yes chemical stripping is a pain in the ass but the end result is worth it. Time and patience people - that's all it takes. Your car is worth it.

I'll be in touch with you in the near future regarding some of your products.

Todd

OMS

[CUDA JAS]

Hay Matt....Any updates???

 

[E-Body Products]

Thanks for the compliment Todd.  I have put my heart and soul into that car.  When I started, most of my buddies thought I was crazy for trying to save a car in such bad condition.  I had seen others much worse and was encouraged by cc.com members that had started with similar or worse basket cases and turned them into jewels.

Fact is, I don't think I could have done what I did without the advice from the cc.com crew.