EGR vs. Non-EGR Carbs & Intakes

[Road_Runner]

OK, looking at installing a 4 barrel intake & carb on my 73 318 to replace the enemic 2 barrel setup.  Right now it still has all of the smog stuff on it, but I noticed the small hose to what I think is the EGR valve mounted on the drivers side of the intake is missing so the EGR's nipple is just open on mine right now.  While looking online I see there are both EGR & Non-EGR carbs & manifolds, but am unsure what will hook up directly to my 318.  I figure if I want to keep the 'stock' look I'll need an EGR intake, but am unsure why I'd need an EGR Carb specifically.  So I guess I need to know what hooks up to where, and can I keep the original look while bypassing all this mess on my engine?  The carb I'd like to use is the Ede 650 AVS with electric choke, so I need any tips you have hooking that up with the stock connections, too. It's also only available as non-EGR so not sure if I'll be able to hook up all my current connections.  Any and all help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Jim

[dodge freak 2]

You "need" EGR if your state requires smog tests for your year of car. If not the motor will be "happier" without it.

I can not understand this "keep the car stock" thinking. Its 2010 now, why not use the latest parts and technologically?

Does anybody believe if the engineers had all this nice stuff we have today that they would have built the motor / car the same way back then?

I scored my MP cylinder heads from some young guy who was parting out a very nice 360 motor cause his car came stock with a 318 and he wanted the car just like it was back in 1973    

 

[Road_Runner]

You "need" EGR if your state requires smog tests for your year of car. If not the motor will be "happier" without it.

I can not understand this "keep the car stock" thinking. Its 2010 now, why not use the latest parts and technologically?

Does anybody believe if the engineers had all this nice stuff we have today that they would have built the motor / car the same way back then?

I scored my MP cylinder heads from some young guy who was parting out a very nice 360 motor cause his car came stock with a 318 and he wanted the car just like it was back in 1973    

 

Not to quible, but I want mine to 'look' stock, but definitely not be stock.  In fact, long term plans are for me to 'hide' a 340 under the hood just to keep it looking stock (no chrome valve covers, air cleaner, etc.).  So for me I want to be able to mount all the smog junk on the engine but will be more than happy to have hidden plugs blocking everything from actually working.  Plus, I've got a Roadrunner that I'm also fixing up that will be old-school hotrod for the look (everything looking like it could have been put on it in the 70's) but again on the inside anything that will make it faster is fair game.

Later, Jim

[UKcuda]

OK, looking at installing a 4 barrel intake & carb on my 73 318 to replace the enemic 2 barrel setup.  Right now it still has all of the smog stuff on it, but I noticed the small hose to what I think is the EGR valve mounted on the drivers side of the intake is missing so the EGR's nipple is just open on mine right now.  While looking online I see there are both EGR & Non-EGR carbs & manifolds, but am unsure what will hook up directly to my 318.  I figure if I want to keep the 'stock' look I'll need an EGR intake, but am unsure why I'd need an EGR Carb specifically.  So I guess I need to know what hooks up to where, and can I keep the original look while bypassing all this mess on my engine?  The carb I'd like to use is the Ede 650 AVS with electric choke, so I need any tips you have hooking that up with the stock connections, too. It's also only available as non-EGR so not sure if I'll be able to hook up all my current connections.  Any and all help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Jim

If you want to keep a stock EGR appearance without running the EGR system then you can perhaps just get an EGR manifold and disable the valve invisibly so it is always closed, or blank off the EGR ports internally.

When I got my '72 Mustang it had a stock 2V EGR system on it with a busted EGR valve and it was running really sick as a result.  I just filled the EGR ports with body filler, cut off the excess and used it like that  . 

I ran fine like that until I fitted a 4bbl Edelbrock about 5 years later but I'm not sure what the Mopar one is like so maybe it wouldn't be such a good idea if there could be a risk of the filler breaking out.

I think most EGR and non-EGR carburettors are interchangable with some tuning.  EGR leans out the mixture in certain conditions so the carburettor has to be set up to work with that.  A non-EGR carburretor is going to be a happier choice as it will be running closer to its design settings if your EGR is non functional.

[Road_Runner]

If you want to keep a stock EGR appearance without running the EGR system then you can perhaps just get an EGR manifold and disable the valve invisibly so it is always closed, or blank off the EGR ports internally.

When I got my '72 Mustang it had a stock 2V EGR system on it with a busted EGR valve and it was running really sick as a result.  I just filled the EGR ports with body filler, cut off the excess and used it like that  . 

I ran fine like that until I fitted a 4bbl Edelbrock about 5 years later but I'm not sure what the Mopar one is like so maybe it wouldn't be such a good idea if there could be a risk of the filler breaking out.

I think most EGR and non-EGR carburettors are interchangable with some tuning.  EGR leans out the mixture in certain conditions so the carburettor has to be set up to work with that.  A non-EGR carburretor is going to be a happier choice as it will be running closer to its design settings if your EGR is non functional.

That's exactly what I've thought about doing but with the concerns you mention.  It appears that the EGR part of the manifold has two holes for the EGR valve to use which would be easy enough to block, the part that worries me is the two holes on the bottom of the plenum that if they go all the way through to the crossover tube portion of the intake I don't think I could just use an intake manifold gasket that blocks this at the heads without fuel puddling in the crossover.  So I'd have to use epoxy or something similar to plug these holes which could be a problem.  I've sort of side stepped the problem as I just got a really good deal on an old LD4B intake that I'm going to put on the 318 for now, but long term I still would like to know if I can make my car appear stock while running at its max.  My state doesn't require smog equipment on cars older than 25 years so I can afford to disable all this junk and just have it installed for appearances.   

Thanks, Jim

[UKcuda]

I'm not sure if I am understanding you correctly but I think the plenum cross-over you are talking about is distinct from the EGR and will not be affected.

LD4B is good !!

[Road_Runner]

I'm not sure if I am understanding you correctly but I think the plenum cross-over you are talking about is distinct from the EGR and will not be affected.

LD4B is good !!

Yeah, I'm stoked about picking up the LD4B.  It has to be bead blasted, but otherwise looks great and I picked it up for less than $100 US delivered!  You can see the holes I'm talking about by looking into the manifold without the carb.  On the EGR manifold there are two 1/2" size holes in the bottom of the runners/plenum where the non-EGR manifold does not.  I saw this comparing the Edelbrock Performer w/o EGR to the same intake with EGR.  Like I said, its moot for now since I picked up the LD4B but at some point I may have to figure this out again depending on which way I go longterm.

Thanks, Jim