Removal of the torsionbars

Author Topic: Removal of the torsionbars  (Read 2540 times)

Offline Belgium Cuda

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Removal of the torsionbars
« on: May 11, 2010 - 04:37:04 PM »
Time to remove the frontsuspension before sandblasting the car, are the T-bars best removed with the car jacked up and the adjusterbolt loose or? :clueless:

Per
1970 Challenger Convertible - to become a Hemi tribute
1968 Charger R/T 500 cui stroker




Offline Changin Gears

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2010 - 04:58:00 PM »
Yes


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Offline FJ5_440

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2010 - 09:10:04 PM »
The weight must be off of the suspension, and the tensioning bolts backed all the way loose.  Remove the clips from the rear sockets and slide the grease boots forward a bit.  Loosen the lower control arm pivot nut until it is just covering the threads and give it a whack to drive the arm and the bar back just a bit.  A torsion bar removal tool is the best bet if you are going to reuse the bars because they are junk if you scratch or mar them.  If you are tossing them or if they are rusty, a big pipe wrench can be clamped on and used to force the bars back.  I made my own cheapskate removal tool by sandwiching the bar between bolted together 5" by 6" pieces of 3/4" plywood and then pounding on the edge of the "sandwich"  to drive them back.
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Offline Belgium Cuda

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2010 - 04:02:58 PM »
Thanks guys. :thumbsup: Just worried about bolts and nuts that hasn't been removed for 40 years. :eek4: front and rearsuspension bolts are more faced with dirt and water aka RUST.

Per


1970 Challenger Convertible - to become a Hemi tribute
1968 Charger R/T 500 cui stroker

Offline Belgium Cuda

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2010 - 02:50:16 PM »
Doesn't go that good, the adjusterbolt broke off. :banghead: This car has never been apart.
Would it be possible to have the K-frame jacked up towards the framerails, loosen the bolts for it and then let the T-bars follow while pushing the K-frame forward? I will never get those bars out otherwise.

Per
1970 Challenger Convertible - to become a Hemi tribute
1968 Charger R/T 500 cui stroker

Offline cudazappa

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2010 - 03:30:53 PM »
Can you cut off the adjuster bolt on the other side?  Then you could remove the plate and drill out the bolt.
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Offline Belgium Cuda

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2010 - 04:08:53 PM »
Can you cut off the adjuster bolt on the other side?  Then you could remove the plate and drill out the bolt.

Can't reach the bolt with my machine. Can I cut the T-bars? They are scrap anyway.

Per
1970 Challenger Convertible - to become a Hemi tribute
1968 Charger R/T 500 cui stroker

Offline dutch

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2010 - 04:57:49 PM »
hey Per  :wave:     do you have access to a blowtorch?  I can`t see from here how much tension the still is on the bars. If you jack up the car ,most tension will be off, but if you heat up the bar you`re sure it`s gone.
If you cut it, don`t cut completely through and break the last bit with a long prybar.lowering the K-frame will get more tension on the TB`s
*** Bart ***

Offline Belgium Cuda

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2010 - 05:45:40 AM »
Thanks Bart, they are waist anyway. There is no market for a pair of 40 year old T-bars for a smallblock
here in Europe. :smilielol:

Per
1970 Challenger Convertible - to become a Hemi tribute
1968 Charger R/T 500 cui stroker

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #9 on: May 14, 2010 - 09:00:26 AM »
cut the T bars off , you are not reusing them, jsut be careful as you cut them under load

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Offline Belgium Cuda

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2010 - 09:25:51 AM »
cut the T bars off , you are not reusing them, jsut be careful as you cut them under load

Thought so, will be careful. What about K-memberbolts that doesn't move anything although I have a 40" over my wrench? Or the inner bolt for the upper controlearm that's rusted stuck with the inner sleeve in the bushing and the stroke with your hammer isn't enough??? :banghead: :banghead:

I admire you guys who do this for a living on old cars, I have innerfenders, engine and evrything else out and still can't make it plus that I don't have to be afraid for the parts because they will be all replaced.

Per
1970 Challenger Convertible - to become a Hemi tribute
1968 Charger R/T 500 cui stroker

Offline dutch

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #11 on: May 14, 2010 - 10:07:18 AM »
http://www.thermischelans.nl/           :woo:  :biggrin:
*** Bart ***

Offline Belgium Cuda

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #12 on: May 14, 2010 - 01:38:37 PM »
Great link there Bart but I found a way to get them out. Only problem now is theinner bolt for the UCA,
it's propably rusted dead stuck in the inner sleeve and when you hit it with the limited power I get in that hook there's a little bit of bouncing back aswell I guess. Idéas are welcome. :clueless:

Per
1970 Challenger Convertible - to become a Hemi tribute
1968 Charger R/T 500 cui stroker

Offline dutch

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #13 on: May 14, 2010 - 02:06:53 PM »
well, since your inner fender is gone, hitting it hard with a BF hammer is not an option...  I don`t know what tools you have available, but you can probably cut the bolt ( on 2 sides) with a hacksaw ,but that might be a bumpy ride due to lack of space... I would say heat is the way to go... you will need a cuttingtorch for that job since you cant reach the bushing that`s rusted to the bolt.
*** Bart ***

Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: Removal of the torsionbars
« Reply #14 on: May 14, 2010 - 08:56:12 PM »
Per, if uyou have a cutting torch just cut it out. Or send me a plane ticket and I'll cut it for you no problem!  :thumbsup:  :roflsmiley:
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