Drum to Disc Conversion, looking for a little advice............................

[Glennster]

 I bought the Summit / The Right Stuff Detailing front Disc Brake conversion kit from TROUBLE987 (BTW - He was great to deal with!).
Here's a few pictures of my current set up, I'm looking for some insight from guys that have done this. Are there any land mines to look out for?
The main concern is the proportioning valve. I think it would be best to go to an adjustable one now, while the engine is out. BUT, is there one out there that would be correct for this system and have all the brake lines attach in the same place as my stock/current set up. I don't want to bend, twist and torture my brake line to get them to fit a GENERIC adjustable proportioning valve. Any suggestions?
 I'm about to do some touch up where the old brake fluid leaked. I'm going to DOT 5 with the new set up.
THANKS!

[quapman]

This one came on all 72 and later Mopars with discs:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370351976608&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[brads70]

Info and pictures of what I did? Hope it helps?
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=66387.60

[Bullitt-]

I've never done a conversion but just looking at the pics of what you already have I think you may be good to go...the MC appears to be a disk brake style(small forward reservoir for the rear & large back for the front brakes) & the proportioning valve may be correct also.   I pulled up this at inline tube

For use on 1970-72 E-body Mopar with either disc or drum brakes. If your Mopar had drum brakes you had the valve to the right and maybe the texas shaped rear hold off valve. The third valve was used in junction with the distribution block and the hold off texas valve on factory disc brake cars. So the valve on the right angle silver bracket was only on only disc brake cars. Some Mopar's had the texas shaped valve and the distribution combine into one valve so your car may only have one valve for drum brakes and two valves for disc brakes, see BLK251 for more info.

[Chryco Psycho]

I use the Wilwood adjustable prop valve in the rear line

[TROUBLE987]

Yea glenn,i havent had no luck finding anything cheaper than what we talked about..ill keep looking too..

[shadango]

I just did a conversion over this past winter, with the help of the folks on this forum.

Used 80 NYer 11.75" rotors, 75 (?) Dart spindles, an a "new" style mstercylinder from Cass at Dr Diff (awesome to dealwith!)

No power unit.   

Replaced the rear brake cylinders with thoe from a mid 70s dodge pickup.

I used a wilwood rear prop valve.  honestly it is almost wide open right now and I have had no rear lockup issues yet. Knock wood.

The car stops pretty good, though I wouldmt mind power assist soemtimes.  But overal WAAAAAAY better than the drums I had...I dont hav to plan ahead to stop anymore...LOL

It was not too mad money wise...but i had to search for parts....the advantage of the kits is its a one stop shop, but at a price.

[HP2]

One advantage you have with the "new style" lightweight master cylinder is they come with a 70/30 bias built in to them, so you may never need to crank down on your rear adjuster. The older cast iron units like the one pictured, have a different bias in them and may require the valve to reduce rear pressure.

[shadango]

Hey Glennster....

Whats the deal with the springs wrapped around your drums???   

[Glennster]

You got me, I figured that was from the factory...........  Maybe I can trick someone into thinking they are a one off prototype and sell them for a TON!!!!

 My Son just asked what it is, now I have to try to look like I know what I'm talking about... Could it be to assist cooling, that's a long shot!
How about something to slow / retard vibration?
HELP ! ! !

[FJ5_440]

Hey Glennster....

Whats the deal with the springs wrapped around your drums???   

They are factory pieces meant to minimize brake drum chatter and vibration when the brakes are applied.  I think most of them got tossed after the first brake job.