This looks like a fair deal--opinions please

[mjb765]

Can someone go back and look at the exterior pics of the Chally and let me know if you think the Plum Crazy is the right shade. Compared to others it seems to look..well too bright and I guess the best way to put it is .....too purple. Is the shade correct??

[_Russ_]

Looks OK to me.

Don't be too off-put by images. How the colour looks depends on a dozen factors - lighting, shade, indoors, outdoors, camera, digital, film, etc.

[autoxcuda]

It's funny that the NADA pricing says the opposite..

That one on EBAY does not look bad, but to be honest I am having some issues with that color. It's one of the few colors I don't want--yellow, pink and the Sassy grass green. Sublime was better IMHO--but we don't want to get into a color rant.....

Take NADA and toss it.

Go get involved in the hobby, go to some bigger shows and see what cars are actually selling for. And buy one from a private party. Rather than a Classic Car Flipper that buys people perfumed pigs that no one would buy before until they got put in a fancy showroom, got glorified pictures, and some good old fashioned used car lot primping.

That 71 FC7 340 Challenger has non factory undercoating under it.

Is it basically restored to the fender tag? Do you know if the fender tag is real or not? Does it have a buildsheet? Do the numbers match the cowl and radiator support stampings?

Look at pictures of the inside of the rear quarter panels from the trunk to see if it has original quarters. Original quarters will have undercoating with a large square-ish block off region around the inside side marker bracket.

Sounds like a $22K to $28K car. It looks like a little more expensive car in the pictures, but there are corners cut that most of the time indicate that other corners cut that don't show up in pictures.

[mjb765]

Take NADA and toss it.

Go get involved in the hobby, go to some bigger shows and see what cars are actually selling for. And buy one from a private party. Rather than a Classic Car Flipper that buys people perfumed pigs that no one would buy before until they got put in a fancy showroom, got glorified pictures, and some good old fashioned used car lot primping.

That 71 FC7 340 Challenger has non factory undercoating under it.

Is it basically restored to the fender tag? Do you know if the fender tag is real or not? Does it have a buildsheet? Do the numbers match the cowl and radiator support stampings?

Look at pictures of the inside of the rear quarter panels from the trunk to see if it has original quarters. Original quarters will have undercoating with a large square-ish block off region around the inside side marker bracket.

Sounds like a $22K to $28K car. It looks like a little more expensive car in the pictures, but there are corners cut that most of the time indicate that other corners cut that don't show up in pictures.

All numbers on the Chally match except the motor. No build sheet and it is restored to to the tag. I am not looking for factory original, just a nicely done car that I can drive. The non factory undercoating does not bother me, it's just that there is so much of it.

[autoxcuda]

All numbers on the Chally match except the motor. No build sheet and it is restored to to the tag. I am not looking for factory original, just a nicely done car that I can drive. The non factory undercoating does not bother me, it's just that there is so much of it.

Check those number physically yourself if you go look at it. And have him remove the cowl screen and look with a flash light and mirror and feel under the cowl stampings for anything funky

The non factory part doesn't bother me so much, it's the what work (rust repair) was done under there that it's hiding.

The value of the car goes down a lot if it's a fake tag without a buildsheet. I'd post a picture of the tag just to cover yourself. People like Barry Washington here can spot the obvious and not so obvious ones.

[mjb765]

Check those number physically yourself if you go look at it. And have him remove the cowl screen and look with a flash light and mirror and feel under the cowl stampings for anything funky

The non factory part doesn't bother me so much, it's the what work (rust repair) was done under there that it's hiding.

The value of the car goes down a lot if it's a fake tag without a buildsheet. I'd post a picture of the tag just to cover yourself. People like Barry Washington here can spot the obvious and not so obvious ones.

Here is the tag

[wally426ci]

Missing a tag.

[Alaskan_TA]

JS23H1B368847 - Owned by Frank Constantino in 1983, Vancouver, B.C. Canada. The car had 85,074 miles on it at the time & had been repainted blue. Original 3:55 gears had been replaced with a 3:91 set.

[Alaskan_TA]

Missing a tag.

Details?

[wally426ci]

Well I saw EN2 but didn't see the 1st tag.

 

I hope I am right. 

[Alaskan_TA]

That is the first (only) tag, EN2 is end of sales codes, assembly line 2.

If there had been a second tag, the first tag would be full & the last code at the top would be CTD for 'continued'. The remainder of the sales codes would then be on the second tag. 

[wally426ci]

Learn something everyday... hope i didn't confuse anyone! 

[mjb765]

JS23H1B368847 - Owned by Frank Constantino in 1983, Vancouver, B.C. Canada. The car had 85,074 miles on it at the time & had been repainted blue. Original 3:55 gears had been replaced with a 3:91 set.

How do you know it had been painted blue?? And how did you know about a gear change?

[Alaskan_TA]

Magic. 

[Alaskan_TA]

Just kidding.

The owner was a SIAC member, I have a copy of his membership form on file from back then.

Tom Quadrini saved them when they were being tossed out, he got them to me via Jeff Bangert years ago.