Chasing the Bodyline

[Topcat]

I decided to do bodywork on my car. I've done it before on other cars but never did a Mopar, or for that matter an E body. The body filler I chose is 3M Platinum. It's comparable in quality to Rage Gold. Since the car is still on the rotisserie, it's been helpful seeing everything in the sunlight. Changing the angle really lets me observe any discrepancies.

With the stud puller, I pulled out what small dents were needing done. Also dollied and hammered others. After that, skin coated filler over the epoxy primered areas.

Everything was going great till I needed to get the contour of the body line matched up. There's a few small areas that dont want to get in synk where it leaves off. A skin coat above and another below. Dry and then begin sanding. I begin sanding horizonally above and below the bodyline. Seems I can't get it exactly like it needs to be. I'm determined to get it right. Any tips and tricks appreciated.

[elitecustombody]

run a piece of masking tape as a guide and block sand up to the tape line,before removing tape,run new piece of tape right beside the old tape,once new tape is on, remove the old tape and block the other half of the panel, you may have to do it more than few times,even add more filler, this is why I check the panels and body lines with straight edge before I skim coat to make sure I have all high and low spots taken care of. Good luck

[Topcat]

Thanks, I'll get the tape out. sounds like that should help.

[elitecustombody]

don't forget to use straight edge and long block

[72hemi]

Masking tape is a great help for body lines.

[dutch]

tape is the way to go.  My bodyshop gave me a sandingblock with a soft pad but I swapped it for one hard as a rock.  May be my lack of experience, but things started looking really straight after that swap... 

[cwestra]

When I did my Cuda I ran a string from front to back (taped on each end).  Then, after making sure it right from all angles, I marked the location of the string on the body with a marker or pen every couple of inches.  I then sanded until the marks just started to go away.  It is a bit of an art and takes practice and patience.  Also, keep the line sharp until you have it correct, then you can sand the correct bend radius in.  It is much easier to follow the line if it is sharp.  I realize the Challenger may be more difficult than the Cuda since the lines are not straight from front to back.  Good luck.

[TROUBLE987]

The longer the block the better..and when you get ready to water sand it use a long paint stick..car will be straight as a arrow..

[Bullitt-]

Being a newb to such & having read a bit on the subject I did it this way....After roughing in the 1st layer of mud, added the finish layer & sanded, with a long board, the upper side top to bottom at a 45* angles then used a piece of chalk to indicate the body line on the sanded side, suppose tape would have worked but I had a curve to deal with, then sanded the lower side bottom to top at a 45* angles to the chalk line. Then around the curve used a smaller block alternating 45* with rounding the curve, pretty much as cwestra described.

[OxfordMotorSports]

I decided to do bodywork on my car. I've done it before on other cars but never did a Mopar, or for that matter an E body. The body filler I chose is 3M Platinum. It's comparable in quality to Rage Gold. Since the car is still on the rotisserie, it's been helpful seeing everything in the sunlight. Changing the angle really lets me observe any discrepancies.

With the stud puller, I pulled out what small dents were needing done. Also dollied and hammered others. After that, skin coated filler over the epoxy primered areas.

Everything was going great till I needed to get the contour of the body line matched up. There's a few small areas that dont want to get in synk where it leaves off. A skin coat above and another below. Dry and then begin sanding. I begin sanding horizonally above and below the bodyline. Seems I can't get it exactly like it needs to be. I'm determined to get it right. Any tips and tricks appreciated.

Drop the 3M Platinum and get a can of RAGE in the PINK can. NOT THE GOLD. If you are having problems the RAGE light weight (Pink can) sands a lot easier then the Gold or the Platinum. It's great for contours and body lines. I have a full set of Durablocks but also have a set of custom made Oak blocks that I like even better. They are 3/4 in thick - 2 in wide - and vary in length. I like the HARD blocks better.

Put a flood light at each end of your panel to eliminate shadows. Spray a light guide coat of contrasting primer over your body filler overlapping into the straight portions of the panel you are working on. Using your longest block take a sheet of 
3M 80 grit GREEN stick on sand paper and stick it on the block. Take a pair of scissors and trim off the excess around the block. NEVER WRAP a big sheet of paper around a block. Block it out and check for the low spots. Glaze over the entire area you are having problems with and sand WITH the body line. Don't just sand back and forth - use a slight orbital action while you sand. SLIGHT. When I get all my lines straight I go over any plastic with 2 coats (spray gun) of  Evercoat G2 feather fill. I NEVER USE GLAZE PRODUCTS. I then hit this with 220 grit on the same long block. The finish is smooth and straight and the plastic is sealed. Shrink problems are eliminated. Then follow up with your final coat of epoxy.

I hope this helps you.

Todd

Oxford MotorSports

New York Customs

[Challenger III]

Great topic, Mike... and a bunch of great input! I'll have to put this one into my "Memory Bank". 

[Topcat]

My car is outside so no need for flood lights. Remember this is CA and where I'm at it's very low humidity. Car is in a very bright lit corner where it stays toasty.  Triple covered at night time. Rust flashing takes over a week to a month to occur as long as it doesn't rain. Rain season looks over now.

Currently using the 3M 80 grit sticky back long strip sand papers. The block I have is the same length as the sandpapers. It's a foamy handle with a steel flexy underneath.

The 3M Platinum doesn't seem too hard to sand and level. Goes on real easy and smooth for light skin coating.  I'll get the Rage once I get things closer. Circular sanding; gotta try that next.

[OxfordMotorSports]

My car is outside so no need for flood lights. Remember this is CA and where I'm at it's very low humidity. Car is in a very bright lit corner where it stays toasty.  Triple covered at night time. Rust flashing takes over a week to a month to occur as long as it doesn't rain. Rain season looks over now.

Currently using the 3M 80 grit sticky back long strip sand papers. The block I have is the same length as the sandpapers. It's a foamy handle with a steel flexy underneath.

The 3M Platinum doesn't seem too hard to sand and level. Goes on real easy and smooth for light skin coating.  I'll get the Rage once I get things closer. Circular sanding; gotta try that next.

Good on the light issue. The Rage (Pink) is just a LITTLE lighter. It should help. A slight orbital action will help avoid flat spots. The Evercoat G2 is a primer and a filler in itself. It sprays on level and has high build properties. You can get it in quarts - it's catalyzed - and I swear by it. It finishes plastic off great.

Good luck with your car.

Todd

OMS

NYC

[wally426ci]

I had to do the same. I sanded diagonally and it worked out fine.  I also spread filler with a paint stick that hopefully reaches to the straight areas you are trying to match up to. That may also help.

[CHL2T]

Think it's hard chasing bodylines on an E? try a 69 Charger, I spent way too much time on the main line and it still isn't perfect. I will be checking and working it at least ten more times!! well, not that many, but you get the idea. After the charger, I am looking forward to the E's