Chasing the Bodyline

[Challenger III]

Great topic, Mike... and a bunch of great input! I'll have to put this one into my "Memory Bank".   
 

Sorry Mike... Never mind.

[Topcat]

Sorry Mike... Never mind.

 

I don't know why you say your sorry. Thanks for the compliment.

Anyone with pics before, during, and after doing this? 

I'll have pics soon on where I'm at on mine in my resto thread. Forgot the camera today. I'm so close now that I think it's time to switch to the RAGE pink.

[OxfordMotorSports]

I'll try to shoot a few for you. No E bodies in the shop at the moment. You'll get it right. Just take your time.

Todd

[TROUBLE987]

  Well i had a bodyshop for 5 years..and i think there is always more than one way to do something..what it comes down to is what the customer is willing to pay for..my uncle has had his for 37 years and he is all old school..he belives that you dont ever strip a car down unless the paint is not sticking..he says that paint has proved it self to stick..and its a good starting point..so he sandblast all the rust spots and start from there..me on the other hand i like it stripped,then go from there..it works for him..not for me..just my  ..oh and 3m is the best...because if there was a better brand out there then they would buy them out. ..    

[TROUBLE987]

First photo shows me laying out some masking tape on the edge of the line. From there I will apply some body filler up against the tape. The tape thickness is what dictates how thick the filler goes on. If I need a more pronounced line I will lay a few strips of tape on one another.
The second pic shows the filler applied. If you still can't get over the use of filler take a close look. You will see numerous places where I have sanded through. I doubt that there is more than 3/16" deep anywhere. Before the filler dries remove the tape and let the filler cure. Sand it with the longest, straightest sanding block you have and don't, I repeat don't roll the block over the edge or you have just defeated the purpose.
Once you have that all sanded do the opposite side of the edge.
Pic 3 shows the filler applied and the tape removed. I found some white hardener (ya, who was the rocket scientist who thought no one wanted to see if the filler was mixed or not) to try and show the straightness of the line using this technique.
I think you will get the idea. Just remember to never sand OVER the edge of the body line or it is now a rounded edge. If you don't need a line that crisp the same tape idea works with primer. Lay the tape on the top of the body line's edge, mask with paper on the top side to stop any overspray and give it a couple of coats. (be sure to follow your paint mfg's instructions, bla bla, bla...) After the last coat, remove the paper and tape and give the whole panel (or vehicle) a few more coats. The "shelf" you have created by taping on the top side of the edge will be filled in and you will have a ever so slight line where your body line is. Sand as you should (remember, don't go over the edge) and you should be left with a crisp line.
This sharp line will be rounded off to a natural looking line once you apply a coat of sealer, 4 coats of base coat, and 4 coats of clear so don't think we are trying to get a line that will cut small children when they touch your car. (Although that would stop them from doing that wouldn't it...  )
Class is open for discussion if anyone has any questions...
 Attached Images     

[OxfordMotorSports]

Good idea Trouble. Work looks good. As for taking cars to metal even House of Color is fine with applying their paint over well sanded FACTORY BAKED PAINT. I do many custom paint jobs that way. I'm talking about going to metal on my resto's. The majority of the old classics I restore have numerous coats of paint on them. I'm doing one now that's been painted 4 times over the years. That's got to come off and sanding is NOT the way to do it.

Your tape idea will help a lot of people out.

Todd

[TROUBLE987]

Good idea Trouble. Work looks good. As for taking cars to metal even House of Color is fine with applying their paint over well sanded FACTORY BAKED PAINT. I do many custom paint jobs that way. I'm talking about going to metal on my resto's. The majority of the old classics I restore have numerous coats of paint on them. I'm doing one now that's been painted 4 times over the years. That's got to come off and sanding is NOT the way to do it.

Your tape idea will help a lot of people out.

Todd

Yea its always worked for me..you can use tape to help in a lot of areas..even sheet metal..i figured out tricks to make it a lot easier to make patches..oh and i didnt come up with it,its something thats been around a long time,but if it helps people then good deal..and i dont sand a car down either i chemical strip mine..its just a lot easier..

[E-Body Products]

  Does this seem like another site we are all too familiar with all of the sudden?  All joking aside, I think that everyone has really suggested some great ideas here today.

Mike, I am glad to hear that your project is moving along.  Mine for the mean time has came to a halt.  My hemi harness project is really putting a drain on body work progress.

Todd, I really like the oak block suggestion and since we have a wood shop, I think I will make a set except I will use hard rock maple.

Stefan does some outstanding body work and it is very noticeable in the cars that he has posted pictures of.  I would let him paint my car any day of the week.

I chemically stripped my car as well.  Worked like a charm.  I would avoid the chemical stripper in tight areas and other places with lots of extruded holes and lips, etc...  It is difficult to get the scrapers to work in these areas.   

Back on topic, we use tape as well to "strike" the line.  Just be aware that sometimes when you think the tape is straight, it really isn't.  Remember, gravity is working against you on the tape during application.  We have a long aluminum straight edge rule that we can lay on the car to check the tape line.  Good luck Mike!

You can see my project on my website (At one time, it was destined for the bone yard).  I am not an expert and I don't have $50,000 to throw at a project either.  So, I take my time and do it myself when time permits.  Just as most of us on this site does.  Hang in there and you will get it looking good.

[IMNCARN82]

I tape off one side. Then the other. It makes for a very crisp line.

[Topcat]

O.K. the lines are straight as an arrow now.

Now I need to dull them a little. Do I just use a 400 grit to dull them back a little? Any particular technique? 
I'd hate to loose the straightness again.

I want to make them look just like what they were originally.

One trick I did that helped when I finalled them, was using SEM guide coat before the tape went on.
Really helped see any variances when I blocked the line straight.