Strange new noise....*broken motor mount we think*

[Bullitt-]

Will these fit my old LA 318 engine?  The description seems to indicate the yare for "A" engine swaps....?

The "A" refers to A-body...on the right side see "B & E Body MagMount Set"

[Moparal]

The car will not shake much with the steel mount.  Also you have the other 2 mounts that absorb vibration. The car will shake less and give you better response.  For a test (and it's cheap) go get a piece of chain and a couple of bolts and chain it down before you change the mount. You will see what I'm talking about. You can do this test for under 5 bucks.

[Bullitt-]

I put a board on a floor jack & put that under the oil pan....had the car on jackstands 1st.

[wally426ci]

I took out the Magmount b/c I was afraid I would lose my fillings!!  Very rigid.

But I may be the only one that this happened to. 

[shadango]

I put a board on a floor jack & put that under the oil pan....had the car on jackstands 1st.

I have a milodon oil pan, modified by the previous owner (front right corner cut off and flat steel welded in for clearance).  I was afraid that using the oil pan to lift the engine's weight would cause it damage.   
 

I did use the pil pan to hold the engine UP when I did my tranny RRs....but the front mounts were in place.....so the whole weight of the engine wasnt on the pan.

Any other way to do it or is that the only way?

Moparal, I may do the chain trick for now to test and also to severe as a safety so I can drive the car (gently) while deciding what to do.

You said a bolt to the head and then at the sway bar bracket....my car doesnt have a sway bar......but i assume you mean somewhere on the Kmember, where the sway bar would mount in the center?

How tight should the chain be adjusted to? Rigid?  Or some give?  Will this put added pressure or break anything else ?

Anyone got pics?

Also, if I use a parts store mount, how specific does it need to be? In other words, I have a 72 fish, but it has a 78 engine....no issue, right?  Just get the part number for a 72 fish with a 318?

[UKcuda]

A wooden block under the pan should be fine to support the motor weight - it's only a gentle lift on one side.

I've seen the chain trick on a few cars at the track.  If it's only for a test or a temporary "get you by" then I would say just tethering it down with a ratchet strap would do, or even a length of old seat-belt (if you can tie a good knot).  Wrap it tight round the K member.

[shadango]

If I were to add the chain, how big a chain?  I have seen some pics online that were MONSTER chains!

I guess if lifting the engine by the pan is the only solution then I will have to try it.... 

[UKcuda]

If the motor mounts were intact then jacking under the pan would be a very bad idea, but honestly it is not a big deal as long as the motor is free to lift.

And you don't need a big chain.  By all means fit a monster chain if you want folks to go,

"oooh, big chain !!!"

But the mounts are only rubber after all and yours is probably only ripped because it was old and shagged out.  Snapping chains takes a lot of force.  Something like an old motorcycle chain would be easily enough IMO.  Or as I say, if it's a temporary thing, just use a length of seat belt, they are really very strong - I've lifted a few engines out using seatbelts, and towed cars with them.

If you can snap off a chain or a seat belt this way then you really need to let us into your small block power secrets.

[Moparal]

5/16   or   3/8 chain is enough. Just a link big enough to put your bolt through is what you need. Where the bracket would mount for the sway bar is a very good place for it. The place on the head where the ground would be. put the bolt there, with a washer on both sides if you want with the chain. Then the other end of the chain just needs to fall a bit short of the k member bolt up place. Using another longer bolt, put it through the link, put a washer on it, the bolt will have threads long enough so that when you stick it through the k member hole , you will be able to pull down to snug is all, then use another nut to jam them together so it doesn't back out.   I can beak an engine mount in my car now, as quick as I install them. So I snug the chain down. No vibrations either. It will be obvious where to install all the washers around the bolt heads and stuff.  And by the way, you don't have to be gentle after the chain install. Drive it as hard as you want. It isn't going anywhere.  You may end up just leaving it on.

[shadango]

Ok, here is my next dumb question....

I went out to buy bolts for the mod shown in that link......they described '  3/8" , 2.5 inch long flat head bolts, grade 8"

They show a hex head type bolt head.

I went to the local hardware store and all they had in grade 8 were the standard hex head bolts.

In the post they say NOT to bevel out the hole to countersink the head in.....thing is, if you dont, the ehad will stick up as far as a hex head bolt.....so i should be ok right?

I assume there is some clearance back there......

Also, to change out the mount, do I need to pull out the entire setup at once, brackets and all, to get at the rubber piece itself? Or does the mount come out without pulling the brackets themselves? 

I mean, how much can i possibly lift/tilt the engine with just one mount disconnected?   It just seems like getting that mount out will be a real PITA..   

[Bullitt-]

I did not tilt the engine that much....basically just supported the engine, maybe raised it a inch, two at the most ...biggest problem I had was removing the OE bolts that held the assembly to the block, nuts are the old self locking style.   It comes out as in one piece then you'll change the rubber mount & put back assembled.

[wally426ci]

any 318 mount should be fine. 

[shadango]

Well, I bought a new Napa mount....bought the bolts......then decided "what the hell, I'll give the engine chain method a try."

So ran out and bought 2 feet of 5/16" chain (there was actually smaller chain that would have worked with the bolts but it didnt look as manly...LOL) and some bolts/washers/nuts just like moparal said....Got 5/6x1" for the top/head bolt and ended up using a 3/8" x 2.5" for the kmember...both are grade 8. .....trimmed the chain to 18".....and installed.  Took longer to go buy the chain than it did to install.....LOL

Here are some pics....






Moparal...just a couple questions -

1- the bolt that threads into the head....its only a 5/16" bolt.....about a half inch is threaded into the head....is that enough? Is that bolt and the head really strong enough to stand up to the punishment?

2- the bolt on the k-member....now, the bolt is straight, the chain and washers are not....so the washer and chain are cocked on the top of the bolt...will that survive?  I couldnt find an all thread bolt long enough in grade 8 (2.5 inches ) otherwise I could have backed up the chain there with another washer and nut....or do you think its ok as-is?

3- I test drove it and NO NOISE now!!!   So obviously the mount is my issue....I still want to replace the mount and do the bolt trick to it, but do you think I can leave it this way for a while, til after carlisle maybe?   I hate to start ripping stuff apart right now....I figure that the chain is holding it all in place so I should be ok, right?

The engine used to rock in the bay at idle pretty bad....steady now....the car doesnt seem to vibrate or rock much more than it did..in fact it may feel a little LESS obnoxious now...

I only took her around the block a few times tonight.....will hopefully get her out tomorrow.....but so far so good on the noise front....I knod of like the "hot rod" look to it....I may get jeers at cruises though..."Why would a 318 need a torque chain?"  LOL 

Thanks again to all, and Moparal thanks for the step by step!

[Moparal]

Good job. Believe me....it is strong enough. Even at 1/2 depth. Chain is snug right?

[Challenger III]

Wow... That's a big chain!