Ignition switch problem??

[Jeffs 70 RT]

Hello everyone! This is my first post here, so bear with me on this long one! I'm putting together a 70 Challenger RT. I've bought just about everything new, in the wiring area. I have a new dash harness from Year One, new turn sig switch, new ignition switch. Problem is: I have no power at the ballast with key on or crank. Blue wire w/tracer at ign switch does not have power. I can jump with bat+ to blue wire and car will start. The harness from Year One came with a relay that plugs in where the "key in" buzzer would go. I'm not sure if this is correct or not??? If I have this relay plugged in, car will start.....as long as the doors are open! This powers the ballast as if the key is in. I could just run a power wire to the blue w/tracer with a toggle switch, but I would like to have this working as it should. What sends power to the ballast when trying to start the car? Has anyone else had any issues with the harness from Year One?   Thanks and sorry for so long!  Take care!  Jeff

[dodj]

The large red wire supplies power to the ign sw. When in the 'start' position, it should send 12v out to the ignition. I would first check if the red wire has power.

[Bullitt-]

New one on me...Getting this right is going to take some testing with a multimeter, I'm predicting a wire is in the wrong place on one of the plugs from either the ignition switch or the new harness.
 You will also need a wiring diagram, if you don't already here is one for the harness. I'd start by making sure the colors match.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChallengerB.JPG
This one you can see the column plug
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChallengerRallyeclusterdashB.JPG

more
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27

[Jeffs 70 RT]

Hey everyone! Thanks for the replies. Dodj, the red wire does have battery power. The larger black has power in the "run" position only. Neither the brown nor the blue wire has power. Now, there are wires near the glove box, "key in buzzer" that when I got the harness, the instructions say the fuse box they used  is a 1971, and the only difference is the horn relay location. 71 is on the box, and that is correct, horn works. The harness came with a "relay" that if I plug into the 3 wire connector at the glove box, I do have power to start the car, as long as the doors are open! Power is lost as soon as I shut the doors and car dies. Take out this relay and I have no power again. If I manually add bat + to the blue wire, car will start and run fine, so I can't see it being a resistor etc. Any other wire guru's out there to give me any ideas! Many thanks guys!!  Jeff

[ShelbyDogg]

Sounds like the ignition switch is bad. START position should have power from the RED wire to the yellow and brown wire. When in RUN, you should have power to the Blue wire and Black wire.  Plug a new switch in at the bottom before pulling the column apart.

[Jeffs 70 RT]

Hello Everyone! Rob (ShelbyDogg) you da man! After 3 ignition switches I got a good one. I could get the car to start normally with the switch out and hooked up, but installed in the column, NO current to the ballast. Found that the switches were loosing connection at the bake-a-lite connection. When in the column, I guess there was enough "twist" that I would have no current. Finally got a good one! Starts normally, charging great! So far, so good! Hopefully no more problems! Thanks again. Anyone else having dash wiring issues, e-mail me, I know the diagram like the back of my hand now!! Thanks again!  Jeff

[ShelbyDogg]

Good Job Jeff!

Nothing like knowing wiring like the back of your hand when you break down on the side of the road.

Glad to help out.

[Jeffs 70 RT]

Man Rob, thanks for the vote of confidence!! LOL  Just kidding! Hopefully that wont happen, but you never know with these old beasts! Been there before!  Take care!! Jeff

[ShelbyDogg]

Man Rob, thanks for the vote of confidence!! LOL  Just kidding! Hopefully that wont happen, but you never know with these old beasts! Been there before!  Take care!! Jeff

At least we have a chance of fixing it on the side of the road.  I just paid $800 yesterday to a dealer to replace and reprogram my vans computer. With our old cars, you might have everything you need in your trunk.     

See you around......