Rear End with no Snubber?

[Mopar_Mudder]

Looking at getting a Dana 60 for the Cuda and run across this guy that seems to sell a pretty reasonably priced Dana 60. It is not an original of course and thier for has no snubber mount. How important is it to have that mount for the snubber? It will be a Hemi Clone care. Also have anyone used the disc brake setup from these people http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/RightStuff/Default.aspx it is what he supplies with his kit.

Rear ends here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-60-E-body-Mopar-/130402483407?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e5c97fccf

[Changin Gears]

The problem is the driveshaft/u-joint will hit the floor when the axle winds up during  acceleration or on rough roads.

[4Cruizn]

I have a brand new adjustable snubber for sale if needed.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=66797.0

[Mopar_Mudder]

I have a brand new adjustable snubber for sale if needed.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=66797.0

Thanks but first I am trying to figure out how critical it is to even have one. I can get a rear end brake combo for about $1000 less with out the snubber.

[mjb765]

The problem is the driveshaft/u-joint will hit the floor when the axle winds up during  acceleration or on rough roads.

Sounds like this makes it crucial to have one!

[Mopar_Mudder]

Sounds like this makes it crucial to have one!

Ya that is what it is suppose to do. I was wondering in real life how much it actually ever does. With a good set of springs are you going to get that much axle wrap? Or is it possible to machine the mount points into a regular Dana 60

[Chryco Psycho]

I have not had a problem but I often either add more front leaves to prevent wiond up & or use a sqaure top short U bolt to clamp the front leaf section together lightly so it cannot wind up

[burdar]

I think it all depends on the springs you are going to use.  With a stock spring you might have an issue under certain conditions.  If you are building a street/strip car and are using SS springs, the rear end should accually be pulled away from the floor pan under acceleration.

[dutch]

caltracs would be an option too.

[Moparal]

Doc differential makes an easy simple weld on kit for under 60 bucks, so you can run a snubber. I installed my truck dana without the snubber and had  6 leafs per side. I thought I would be ok. But if you are making  tq, you can expect the driveshaft and rear yoke to hit the tunnel. Mine did, so I got the kit and a dana snubber. The other posts about more springs or even clamps works too, to some degree.  I believe a stick car would need it more than an auto

[Mopar_Mudder]

It will be a stick and I want it to apear as stock as possible so Caltraks are out.

Any pictres of this weld in snubber? I assume that is mounting the snubber to the floor rather then the axle then.

Also are SS Springs a specific brand?

[burdar]

"SS" as in Mopar Performance Super Stock springs.  They will make the car sit high in the rear and are designed for drag racing.  They would not give you a "stock" look.

[Mopar_Mudder]

"SS" as in Mopar Performance Super Stock springs.  They will make the car sit high in the rear and are designed for drag racing.  They would not give you a "stock" look.

I don't want to go that route then no.

[Moparal]

The stands for the stock snubber weld right on the rear end in the original area like the car snubbers do.  They are round bar stock, (3)cut on the correct angle to fit the center section, then drilled and tapped to fit the correct size snubber bolts. Once mounted, it all looks just like the original car dana set up and works just like it to.  It is a very simple procedure to do. Takes about an hr or less once on jack stands. Super Chryco could do it in 10 minutes

[Topcat]

Looking at getting a Dana 60 for the Cuda

 It is not an original of course and thier for has no snubber mount. How important is it to have that mount for the snubber? It will be a Hemi Clone car.

Dana's that were factory installed on E bodies had an additional re-inforcement plate for the snubbers. It lowers the contact point of the rubber 1/2" to 1". Original pinion snubbers are fairly short in height.

If you don't want to add the re inforcement plate, then I would consider the adjustable pinion snubber one.

http://www.restorick.com/proddetail.asp?prod=PinionSnubberPlate