Author Topic: What Cuda do I buy?  (Read 18649 times)

Offline LukeSkywalker

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 189
  • Plymouth
What Cuda do I buy?
« on: June 30, 2010 - 08:47:09 AM »
Alright, here it is. I'm a n00b. I don't know the first thing about american muscle cars, so - got acouple of questions..

Got the money and I've currently got the choice between these two:

- 1974 360 Cuda with it's original paint which is abit worn out.. Never been restored, just driven, all parts original.

- 1972 440 Cuda that was originally a 340 I believe. The 440 engine is from 68 or 69. It's been restored somewhat, with an ok paintjob.

Click the links for pictures.
Both cars got automatic trans.
The interior of both cars is ok.

Now this is what I'm hearing.. Get the 74 one because that one is original...
I can see how that is nice, but I've heard that the 74 360 Cuda is abit slow. Is that true? And - can it be helped without emptying the wallet completely? Would I have to renovate the entire engine or are there alternatives to make it speed up?

I like the 74's rear with the rearlights panel sort of sunk into the trunk.

What I don't want is a slow muscle car. What's the point? Figure I might aswell get a Prius.

Will the 440 go alot faster than the 360, and will the 360 move at all?

What car would you choose and why?
« Last Edit: June 30, 2010 - 08:51:03 AM by LukeSkywanker »




Offline the_engineers

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2639
  • Cheap, fast, reliable...pick 2
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2010 - 09:02:58 AM »
Get the 440. 74's and 72's will not have huge restored value and the big block will be more fun to drive.

BTW, they should both have the same tail lights...
Brooks

1971 'Cuda 360
2004 Infiniti G35 6-spd Coupe
2001 Toyota Solara Convertible
2002 GMC Savana 1500 Explorer Hightop Conversion
1972 Dodge Dart Swinger...keeping the Slant.  Rocking the turbos.

Offline mjb765

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 660
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2010 - 09:51:52 AM »
Normally I would say get the 72 440...but in this case is the 72 a 'Cuda or a Barracuda????  In the ad it is a "barracuda"--can you get the vin to see if it is a "BH" or "BS"?  The 74 has has a rallye dash and the correct through the valance exhaust. Either of them have fender tags so you can see if how original they are? and most importantly--do you care??  If the 72 is not a "real" Cuda then the 74 is worth more--even though it is a small block. You can wake the 360 up with some head work and a cam.

Once again it comes down to what you want to do with it. The 440 will be more fun out of the box to drive, but--if it is not a real cuda--when it comes time to sell the 74 may be worth more. Just my $.02

And the tailights should be the same and look that way in the pic. It may be the color of the rear panel that is throwing you off.

Offline IMNCARN82

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3547
  • LeDZeP
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2010 - 09:54:09 AM »
Both nice cars...    I'd go with the 440 car.    Tough choice.  :violin:     
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
71' Demon
75' Duster
87' Conquest TSI
56' Plaza
Boulder CO
Robert    "cuda bob"

Offline dutch

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6944
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2010 - 09:58:21 AM »
the taillight panel on both cars is the same.  The 74 has some trim around it ,but it`s the same panel. ( the trim is hard to get ...)
I would go 440 for sure... it sure does make a difference in HP,  unless the 360 has been modified seriously.
the 440 will give you tons of torque, and you will probably wear tires a lot faster than you can make money.  :burnout:
be carefull with rust on these cars... they`ve got a reputation. That vinyl top on the 72 is a potential watertrap ,so check for bubbles underneath.
As for being a cuda or a barracuda,  I think on our side of the planet ,the big engine Barracuda will bring more when sold than 360 Cuda. ( that`s with both in the same shape ofcourse )
*** Bart ***

Offline burdar

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5925
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2010 - 01:15:32 PM »
The 74 is a rare car.  Not many made that year.  Production ended early.  I'd go for the 74 personally.  You can always install a big block if you want and still have the origonal engine to put back in at a later date.   

Offline LukeSkywalker

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 189
  • Plymouth
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2010 - 02:11:42 PM »
Thanks for the input guys !  :worshippy

I was wondering why there was no 'Cuda mark on the inside of the 72's door...
Could the BH be why? Are the BH chassis ones not as strong as the BS ones then?

The taillight panel looks to me as it's sort of deeper on the 74, but it's probably just the lighting on the pic then. Colour me Stevie Wonder..


Are there any other rust spots I should look for besides on the roof vinyl ?

I've been warned about the dealer of those 2 cars(same dealer). He's not the type to tell you anything you don't ask about..
I'm traveling to see these two cars next week so any info on what to look for is greatly appreciated :)

Offline burdar

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5925
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2010 - 04:11:26 PM »
72-74 bodies are the same...same grill and rear panel.  The 74 looks like it's inset more than the 72 because in 73 and 74 the bumpers got moved out farther way from the body.  That was due to gov't 5mph impact standards.  They used a rubber strip to take up the gap between the bumpers and the body.  70-72 cars don't have those.

Offline ShelbyDogg

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5007
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2010 - 05:26:37 PM »
Get the 440, But take both out for a drive first and see which one is more solid.  I like the color of the red one but the newer paint could be hiding bondo. 

The 440 would be faster but it could be worn out and about to throw a rod. The 360 can be rebuilt to outperform the 440. Th4 74 probably came with A/C which you may or may not want later.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline LukeSkywalker

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 189
  • Plymouth
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2010 - 05:37:04 PM »
What does bondo mean?

The 72 440 Cuda is BH... :banghead: and the 74 is too slow...  :banghead:
I'd like a Cuda but there just ain't any proper ones for sale now.
There is two more, one looks good but is originally crap, and the other has Volvo S60 seats in it so I'm not even gonna bother.
I'm going to take a look at the 72 and 74 anyway.


Just got a tip on this aswell:

Is an original 1970 Challenger SE, 383, 727 automatic a good or a bad idea?

Good interior. Frontseats leather, backseats PVC or whatever. Rust has been removed. Roof vinyl has been changed.
It's got a new paintjob 'n all. And a spare 383 engine..

Link:
http://www.finn.no/finn/car/used/object?finnkode=23117548

I looked at musclecarfacts.net for info on an 1970 Challenger SE but couldn't find anything. Don't know how many been made etc.

Offline IMNCARN82

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3547
  • LeDZeP
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2010 - 05:57:42 PM »
Ha!  You are gettn' the fever.   The Chally sounds cool too...   These cars pick their owners.  Good luck and keep us posted!   :swaying:
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
71' Demon
75' Duster
87' Conquest TSI
56' Plaza
Boulder CO
Robert    "cuda bob"

Offline BB73Challenger

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1797
  • 2 cars - twice the wrenching... yay?
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2010 - 09:08:59 PM »


Is an original 1970 Challenger SE, 383, 727 automatic a good or a bad idea?


Original big block E-bods will always be worth more money.

When picking my Chally I went non-numbers matching big block knowing that I would modify the car and drive more for fun than try and keep an original car original.
Jeff from Cleveland, Ohio

Offline RUMBLON

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 15
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2010 - 11:12:50 PM »
NEITHER!!!!!!!!!!!! Wait, dont rush and the right one will come along.

RUMBLON



Offline mcgheejt

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 654
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2010 - 07:30:54 AM »
The 74 is a rare car.  Not many made that year.  Production ended early.  I'd go for the 74 personally.  You can always install a big block if you want and still have the origonal engine to put back in at a later date.

 :iagree:

Offline GreenFish

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1281
Re: What Cuda do I buy?
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2010 - 07:42:32 AM »
What does bondo mean?

The 72 440 Cuda is BH... :banghead: and the 74 is too slow...  :banghead:
I'd like a Cuda but there just ain't any proper ones for sale now.
There is two more, one looks good but is originally crap, and the other has Volvo S60 seats in it so I'm not even gonna bother.
I'm going to take a look at the 72 and 74 anyway.


Just got a tip on this aswell:

Is an original 1970 Challenger SE, 383, 727 automatic a good or a bad idea?

Good interior. Frontseats leather, backseats PVC or whatever. Rust has been removed. Roof vinyl has been changed.
It's got a new paintjob 'n all. And a spare 383 engine..

Link:
http://www.finn.no/finn/car/used/object?finnkode=23117548

I looked at musclecarfacts.net for info on an 1970 Challenger SE but couldn't find anything. Don't know how many been made etc.


Bondo=body filler.. IE former rust or dents that have been poorly repaired
70 cuda, 440, KB pistons, 10.5:1 compression, edlebrock heads,RacerBrown cam, 5-Speed Tremec, Megasquirt EFI