another brake bleeding question

[high perf mopar]

when bleeding power brakes,front disc,rear drums,,factory oem set up,using speed bleeders in the rear,fluid does squirt out by pedal pressure but the pedal only goes down about an inch???both sides are bleeding "rear" the same...fronts will send the pedal to the floor when bleeding.

brake switch lite is off..is this normal??new everything..there was air in the rears but now the pedals still a little spongy stops half way down when the motors running but the rear brakes wont fully engage..they will slow down though..if the prop valve was fully over one way there would not be any fluid coming out at all but that is not the case..the pedal goes solid after "squirting"not ozzing out fluid,,any thoughts?? the power brake booster does go down when applying the pedal and then starting the motor..there is free play at the pedal before engaging the hydralic brake system..

[72cudamaan]

SOUNDS LIKE YOU JUST NEED TO READJUST THE REAR SHOES A LITTLE BIT TIGHTER.  yOU WANT JUST A SLIGHT DRAG WHEN TURNING THE WHEEL. Sorry bout the caps, button stuck.

[high perf mopar]

i will try that tomorrow..now when i adjusted the rear shoes i did not back off the parking brake,and i tightened the shoes to wear i could just barely slip the drum back on,,11" drums..the wheel cylinders are expanding..thanks for the reply,,just seems weird that the pedal suddenly stops when expelling fluid out the rears,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,would a small amont of air in the fronts cause this??

[Chryco Psycho]

the system is designed to work that way , if you lost fluid in one system fornt or rear the other should still have pressure with a lower pedal

[high perf mopar]

the system is designed to work that way , if you lost fluid in one system fornt or rear the other should still have pressure with a lower pedal




thats what i thought also,,,backed off the parking brake today and turned the adjusters almost a full turn.cant test it with the engine running until tomorrow,changed the intake gasket today because of a very slight vacuum leak.guess i should have read the directions from edelbrock when installing there repro 6-pack intake that required the paper gaskets...the only variable here is the rod coming out of the booster,,i did not adjust it when i installed the master..theres play in the pedal so i hope that says something positive..oh well,,if i have to take the master off to set it at least i have these speed bleeders,,i love them...will know tomorrow.thanks tony

[72cudamaan]

If you are using the same booster, you shouldn't have to adjust that rod. Usually moving the rod causes more problems. I personally would say "leave the rod alone".

[high perf mopar]

If you are using the same booster, you shouldn't have to adjust that rod. Usually moving the rod causes more problems. I personally would say "leave the rod alone".



but its not the same booster,,,the entire car is built from scratch because thats the way i recieved it.the booster is from a local auto parts store.all the parts r from here and there and i have to mate them together.i picked up a used booster from the mopar alley swap meet last month,the rod coming out of it is dif shorter than what i installed....didnt know the diff..and that they needed to be adjusted...but if thats it it will be a simple fix,,the only explanation for the short throw other than thats its the way its supposed to be is the rod not allowing the m/c to get a big enough gulp of fluid..i'll know tomorrow when i start the motor and apply the brakes and the rear tires stop or not........i love the sound of an mp509/292 108 centerline cam!!!!

[high perf mopar]

btw 72cudamaan,,,your cat should open his eyes when blazing with that AK..lol

[high perf mopar]

well iv'e had it up to here with o.e.m. cuda brake systems!
metering valve,rear hold off valve,proportion valve,,,B>S> could not get it to work.so,,i did what other people here have done. http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=66387.60 .installed the wilwood prop adj valve and raybestos wc37236 wheel cylinders. and a NEW not rebuilt mastercylinder.start to finish installation took 5 hours from uninstalling to bleeding..NOW the brake pedal feels right and not spongy..rears lock when static turning now,,will fire the motor tomorrow and see how it works with vacuum..this is the only thing holding it up from its maiden test voyage around the block before the alignment shop...post back after fire up..i think the wilwood valve was made for this car.

only had to fab 2 brake lines...craftsmen double flaring tool "$60.00" is a great low cost flaring tool that WORKS.  tony