I'd skip the CAP tubular arms!!!
There have been several reported failures of these arms. While its hard to sort things out on the internet, I do know of one case specifically where its VERY obvious that the arm broke at the weld near the ball joint. Based on the pictures I saw, the weld at the joint was "cold" and did not penetrate all the way through. CAP, unlike other makers, uses a MIG welder for the production of their arms. While that isn't inherently an issue, there have been quality control issues with CAP and cold welds.
I do actually have a set of CAP tubular arms (uppers AND lowers) on my car. I have inspected them and they look fine, and I still run them (probably close to 20k miles on them now!). But I would not buy them again. Personally I'd get a set of Magnumforce double adjustable arms (and I might do so in the future). Unlike the other tubular arms on the market the double adjustable arms can be adjusted on the car without removing the arms. And after setting up the CAP arms I can say that would have been a worthwhile feature.
Regardless of which A-arm you go with, the most important part is getting a good alignment using modern standards. A little negative camber and positive caster go a long way to improving the handling of these cars. Depending on use, I'd say between -0.5 to -1.0 degrees of camber and around +4 degrees of caster will really help your cause. I currently run mine at -0.7 degrees camber and +4 degrees caster with 1/16" toe-in. -0.5 degrees camber should be great for a street car. -1 degree would be more for an aggressive road handling car, and I wouldn't run more than -1.0 on a car that sees a lot of street miles, as you'll start to get abnormal tire wear.
