Viper 6 speed in a challenger

[73restomod]

Well I got the Trans pulled apart did a quick inspection of the synchronizers everything looks good, they had very little if any wear and the corners of the teeth were nice and sharp still. I would of liked to take pictures but I have been struggling just to get time to work on the car due to work load etc. I do have a picture of the trans after its back together. I decided to  paint the trans black, with some high heat engine paint. I took the liberty of lightly sanding the oxidation off before painting it, wanted to make sure it had plenty of bite.



Next step is to check for input shaft center. Look for updates soon.

[johns cuda shop]

Looking good 

[73restomod]

Now for anyone doing a T-56 trans swap and checking the input shaft run out on it. It actually has to be done differently than a typical trans. Install the adapter bell housing minus the clutch assembly on back of motor with flywheel installed. Now the T-56 has 3 main sections, Front plate with input shaft, Main body, and Tail Section. Remove the Front plate and then pull the Input Shaft and the retainer from the Front plate, mount it to the back of the bell. Insert the Dial indicator, lock it down on the flywheel and set the tip of the indicator on the register of the retainer housing in the front plate and zero it. Spin it up and watch anything under .oo5 is acceptable and good. More than that well, you'll need to get some offset dowels to fix it. This is the number one reason that T-56 swaps fail! It took a good bit of research to find out the proper method for these trans' and I'm willing to bet very few do it right, given the complexity. I will have photos to walk thru this as these trans' are to expensive to have fail prematurely.

Edit: Also wanted to add that the reason you HAVE to do it this way is because T-56's do not align via the outside diameter of the Input bearing retainer into a machined hole in the bellhousing, they are actually dowel pinned. Ergo checking the run out the normal way accomplishes SQUAT!

Edit #2: Tried to see if there's a feasible cheat method...There is one, just needed to think on it more.

Edit#3: How to do it without disassembly!!!!!  Remove the flywheel, install Bell-housing on trans, and install on motor without motor plate if yours has one. Using a dial indicator with a magnetic base fasten to crank flange. Set the indicator face where you can easily see it (6 o'clock position), and then set it against input shaft behind the splines for the clutch disk and zero it. Put the trans in 4th gear and have a friend spin the output yoke. Mark the readings on a sheet of paper with a clock face drawn on it using 12 as UP etc. Rest is the same as typical run-out check.

Will post pics this weekend.

Really glade I did this as I had my motor line bored and it needed to be done

[73restomod]

Ok, here is how you should check for input shaft to crank centerline on a T-56 or TR-6060 properly. It is a pain, but it is the only way to truly tell if your good. I tried so many ways to cheat having to pull my trans apart to check this, thought I found a way, tried it, centerline looked good; but, I had that nagging in the back of my mind. So I bit the bullet, and checked it the way you are supposed to, and I had twice the distance off centerline I had checking with my cheat method. My cheat method showed .003, the real method showed .008 to the 3 o'clock position. So in goes a Mcleod .007 offset to correct it. That may sound odd but my total dial indicator sweep was .015, which you divide by 2 to get the actual amount, let me explain. I zeroed my dial indicator at 12 o'clock, at 3 o'clock it read .0075 counter clockwise sweep, meaning the needle was traveling out, at 6 o'clock it read .000 again, and at 9 o'clock it read .007 clockwise sweep meaning the needle was compressing. So total indicator sweep is (.0075ccw + .007cc=) .015 divided by 2 = .008 again rounding up, .008 - .007= .001 off centerline, very acceptable. Things needed to perform this check are 1) a friend because you will need the extra hands, 2) magnetic base dial indicator, and a mirror (make up mirror works great just sneak it from the wife). Now I can confidently assemble the trans, and know it will be operating at maximum torque capacity.

Update: I got the total sweep down to .0035, so I am .00175 off center so all good

[brads70]

I just indicated a T-56 for a buddy and it was out of center just over .020" (.040" on the indicator)  He was using a quicktime bell housing FYI? Viper T-46 to a Chevy LS motor in my old 55 chevy.

[73restomod]

Yeah, I wonder how good the jigs are at QT, and how they do the welding of the bell; like before or after machining? I also had to sand the one dowel pin hole because the Mcleod offset dowels are slightly larger than the factory dowel pins, why one fit and the other didn't . Now the trans can go on and stay on! On two bigger and better things like the exhaust!

[brads70]

I should add/ forgot to add that we also had to get it Blanchard ground  it was way off as far as being flat too, which effected the indicator reading.

[73restomod]

Really glad I didn't have the issue, there is not enough swearing emotes on the site to handle that!

Update: getting ready to order my drive shaft...ran into some more issues regarding size/ material choice, look for photos and such shortly.

[73restomod]

Remade my transmission cross-member to get more clearance for exhaust, and to make exactly 1/8'' more clearance to the 1350 slip yoke.







However, I will have to stretch the height of the trans tunnel if I want to run bigger than a 3" drive-shaft. Which I want to run a 3.5 aluminum from denny's so....keep your eyes peeled.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

For what it's worth, Silver Sport Transmissions makes an Ebody to T56 Magnum lower mount that works with a factory transmission rubber.

The upper mount I designed and had laser cut/CNC broke.

[73restomod]

It's a very nice looking piece, wish I had a plasma torch when I first started this project, would've done many things differently lol.

[ragtopdodge]

Goody, any details on the extent of the sheetmetal work needed w/this "kit"?  Can I keep most of my OEM manual hump?




https://shiftsst.com/articles/cat/mopar/post/challenger-barracuda-1970-1974-perfectfit-kit/



Tremec T56 Magnum Kit Components

Tremec T56 Magnum 6 Speed Double Overdrive

PerfectFit Shifter position fits inside the factory console

700 torque capacity wide or close ratio.

Friction Lined Synchronizer Blocker Rings come standard for easy high RPM shifts

Full 12 month warranty with unlimited technical support, 24 month installation window

Optional Add the Front Shift Kit for bench seat clearance

SFI Rated Steel Bellhousing

Hydraulic Clutch Actuator Kit

6-Speed Pattern Shift Handle Insert

Sheetmetal to widen tunnel

Speedometer Connection

Mechanical and electronic compatible
Speedo Gear

Reverse Light Connector

Pilot Bearing

Super heavy duty needle roller type with lube seal for long life

Crossmember - No need to replace torsion bar suspension. Stronger than the original equipment crossmember.

Isolator Mount

Rubber for vibration isolation

Installation Hardware

Slip Yoke and Driveshaft

Detailed Installation Instructions - including free lifetime tech support

12 Month Product Warranty

Includes 24 month activation delay so you can finish your project.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Goody, any details on the extent of the sheetmetal work needed w/this "kit"?  Can I keep most of my OEM manual hump?




https://shiftsst.com/articles/cat/mopar/post/challenger-barracuda-1970-1974-perfectfit-kit/



Tremec T56 Magnum Kit Components

Tremec T56 Magnum 6 Speed Double Overdrive

PerfectFit Shifter position fits inside the factory console

700 torque capacity wide or close ratio.

Friction Lined Synchronizer Blocker Rings come standard for easy high RPM shifts

Full 12 month warranty with unlimited technical support, 24 month installation window

Optional Add the Front Shift Kit for bench seat clearance

SFI Rated Steel Bellhousing

Hydraulic Clutch Actuator Kit

6-Speed Pattern Shift Handle Insert

Sheetmetal to widen tunnel

Speedometer Connection

Mechanical and electronic compatible
Speedo Gear

Reverse Light Connector

Pilot Bearing

Super heavy duty needle roller type with lube seal for long life

Crossmember - No need to replace torsion bar suspension. Stronger than the original equipment crossmember.

Isolator Mount

Rubber for vibration isolation

Installation Hardware

Slip Yoke and Driveshaft

Detailed Installation Instructions - including free lifetime tech support

12 Month Product Warranty

Includes 24 month activation delay so you can finish your project.

You should be able to keep most of the hump. Unfortunately my trans was fitted before this new shifter was available.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ragtopdodge]

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopar-overdrive-breakthrough-offset-shifter-6-speeds/

[Road_Runner]

I think it was in a recent Mopar Muscle magazine they did a good write-up of the SST setup, and they also covered it on one of the hotrod TV shows recently, too.  I have to say that I wouldn't have considered this swap before but the SST looks to be so well done I'm going to at least consider it.  The body mods are minimal and reversible if someone wants to go back original at a later date, and TWO overdrive gears is just too good a deal not to at least consider.  Plus, as they say its an original a Mopar (Viper) transmission so it would still be all Mopar which is a big plus for me!

Later, Jim