Valve Cover Leak

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    Author Topic: Valve Cover Leak  (Read 4623 times)

    Offline 69ChargerRT

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      • Daisy - My 1969 Dodge Charger R/T
    Valve Cover Leak
    « on: December 20, 2001 - 02:33:22 PM »
    I recently swapped a set of MT valve covers for a new set of Mopar Performance valve covers.  no matter how hard we tigheten we cant seem to get rid of the leak.  it seems worse on the passenger side, but thats probably only because its harder to get to in some places.  course the oil leaks right onto the headers and i get a lot of smoking.  after tightening them down tonight i thought we had it.  while driving around i didnt see any smoke, which was quite the opposite of what happened before.  but when i got home i noticed just a bit seeping past where the hood lines up and as soon as i opened the hood it was clear there was smoke.  felt down there and got my fingers greasy with oil.  any suggestions on how to fix this?

    posted on the charger board as well.
    « Last Edit: December 31, 1969 - 07:00:00 PM by 1023595200 »
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    Offline DamnCuda

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #1 on: December 24, 2001 - 08:09:52 AM »
    When I put the MP aluminum valve covers on my 360 I had to grind the covers around the intake runners on my RPM Airgap intake. >:(

    I've also heard about factory heads not being completely level on the seal surface.  Factory stamped steel covers will bend enough to compensate, but the MP aluminum’s are more solid & won't flex.

    If they're not hitting the intake maybe try some RTV to help them seal?

    Jason
    « Last Edit: December 31, 1969 - 07:00:00 PM by 1023595200 »
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    '72 Cuda 340, '72 Fury 360

    Offline WedgeHead

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #2 on: December 29, 2001 - 01:42:56 PM »
    Hi Ross!

    I always used to have the same problem.  >:(
    Didn't matter if I used cork or rubber gaskets, stock or aftermarket valve covers and blue locktite on the bolts.

    However, the rubber gaskets seem to work better.

    Finally, I used studs and nuts, instead of the usual bolts.
    This cured the problem in my case!  ;)
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    Offline WedgeHead

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #3 on: February 05, 2002 - 07:16:00 PM »
    Ross,

    Did you get the leak fixed? If so, what did you do?  ???
    « Last Edit: December 31, 1969 - 07:00:00 PM by 1023595200 »
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    Offline 69ChargerRT

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #4 on: February 05, 2002 - 07:52:19 PM »
    yeah they seem to be sealed now.  used a regular rubber gasket with a ton of silicone.  did the trick.  gonna be real messy to take the covers off, but for now its not leaking
    « Last Edit: December 31, 1969 - 07:00:00 PM by 1023595200 »
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    Offline WedgeHead

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #5 on: February 07, 2002 - 07:41:57 PM »
    Ross,

    I know how you feel.  ;)

    Purchase some studs and nuts, so you can easily switch to those for the next time you change the gaskets. Get another rubber gasket for sure! Just be prepared to spend most of an afternoon cleaning off the old silicone, putting in the studs, etc. It should be worth it, as it was for me. Make sure to use a grease removing solvent like laquer thinner or acetone for cleaning! Varsol does not work as it is oily itself. Perhaps you already know this, but it bares repeating as it is an important step!!!

    I will never use bolts and cork gaskets again!

    Just be careful with the torquing of the nuts as they will squeeze and hold tighter than bolts. It is easy to apply too much "crush" on the valve covers and bend them, if they are stamped steel, but especially for "cast magnesium" covers as they could break if nut is tightened too much.  At least studs are alot more "tuneable", so to speak! As for the silicone, you should be able to use just enough to seal the gasket to the valve cover. 

    Works for me, I hope it will for you too! ;D
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    Offline the Wizard

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #6 on: March 28, 2002 - 10:36:48 PM »
    Wedgehead,

    I'm not sure I see why you use studs and nuts?  This engine had studs but we removed them for nicer looking cap screw bolts.  Either way, you don't need much torque or you'll break the flange on the valve cover.  Please explain?
    « Last Edit: December 31, 1969 - 07:00:00 PM by 1023595200 »
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    Offline WedgeHead

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #7 on: April 05, 2002 - 06:39:48 PM »
    Sorry Wiz,

    I didn't see yer post for a while.  ::)

    Well, as I explained, I pretty much tried everything to seal the leak. including re-flattening the valve cover flanges....all to no avail.

    As a final attempt, I used studs instead of bolts as a machinist suggested to me. Voila! problem cured!

    I also found that I didn't have to keep re tightening them all the time as I did with bolts. And I as mentioned, you don't need to use much torque on studs/nuts at all, that way you don't bend or break the flanges.

    Apparently, studs have  better "clamping" power/capabilities than bolts! Do they ever!  :D

    And the up and down cycles of heating and cooling of the engine tend to loosen bolts, but not studs. That's why I also use studs instead of bolts on my carb and headers too!

    Haven't switched for my intake yet.

    That's about it. It worked for me, and  maybe will for someone else who has this problem.  ;D
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    Offline Chryco Psycho

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #8 on: April 05, 2002 - 10:22:07 PM »
     I want to see you remove the intake after you put the studs in :o ???
    « Last Edit: December 31, 1969 - 07:00:00 PM by 1023595200 »
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    Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

    Offline WedgeHead

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    Re: Valve Cover Leak
    « Reply #9 on: April 06, 2002 - 08:54:38 PM »
    Or not!  ;)
    « Last Edit: December 31, 1969 - 07:00:00 PM by 1023595200 »
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