Totally Frustrated!

[wD-Boston]

The issues I'm having started about 12 weeks ago after taking the car out of winter storage. I replaced the Carter AVS that I had on the engine for the past 19 years for a eddy 650 cfm ( I can just see Chrycos response now ) because a good buddy of mine finally convinced me. Reason was the car would stall periodically so we figured it was time for a new carb. More on this later

It worked fine until I let a family member who is a "mechanic" try to tweak the carb. Since then it's the performance of the car has slowly gone down hill.

Slowly but surely the performance eroded to the point that it just kept stalling. Was able to fire it up and keep an idle but once it went into gear it would stall.
Tried different timing settings but with the same result.

So going on my buddies advice given the symptoms it sounded like a jumped timing chain. Crank and cam markers lined up perfectly and #1 piston is at TDC.

I checked the perimeter of the intake and found a small vacuum leak so I replaced the intake gaskets. Get everything back together still same symptoms but now the engine is running hot 

I drive it down to my buddies so he could see it for himself and come to realise that the torque converter is locked up.

Funny because I had it changed out last August because the torque converter bolts were backing out and hitting the block. So I gave it to the family member to replace as a favor cause he just opened up his own shop.

So I replaced it with a Hughes 2000-2200 stall,set the timing and the carb and now runs great......

Driving home, which I have to use the highway I noticed the temp keeps climbing....not good
I get off the highway and having a hard time keeping it at idle, stalls out a few times on the way.

I flushed the radiator, installed a new water pump,160 t-stat,plugs,wires,coil and fuel filter.

When the car is cold it runs fine but after it warms ups after about 20-30 minutes is when it starts having problems....runs hot and engine won't hold an idle.

I did notice when I was burping the engine of air that I pulled out a sliver of black rtv from the radiator, should I remove the intake manifold and check for blockage? The car never ran this hot before. I believe this is whats causing it to run like crap.

Sorry for such a long post but I just want to show the time line of events to today.

Engine is a 340 w/ slight cam ( sorry don't have the specs) auto and mopar electronic conversion

I'm really at my wits end and can really use some help 


wD-Boston

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Since the anti-freeze runs thru the intake manifold on a small block, I can see where once the car heats up, you have stalling problems. I'm sure the fuel in the carb starts boiling.

There has to be a restriction somewhere in the anti-freeze flow, or the fan isn't doing it's job. Do you have a fan shroud?

[the_engineers]

Sounds like you need less help, not more...

[wD-Boston]

Since the anti-freeze runs thru the intake manifold on a small block, I can see where once the car heats up, you have stalling problems. I'm sure the fuel in the carb starts boiling.

There has to be a restriction somewhere in the anti-freeze flow, or the fan isn't doing it's job. Do you have a fan shroud?

That was my thinking after the intake gaskets were changed out, the car didn't run as hot before the start of this mess. I removes the t-stat and the lower radiator hose and manually flushed. I know it will take me only so far but I have noticed that it's taking just a tad longer to get hot so I think I'm on the right track.

It never had a shroud before but did put one in a few days ago, same results.

The fuel filter is clear so I can see the flow and the pressure is good. Again after 15-20 minutes it starts to act up. I did notice bubbles forming inside so it appears the fuel is boiling.

I have ordered new intake gaskets as I'm out of ideas.

wD_Boston

[drewcrane]

Where is your timing set? that along with what your are saying there could be enough blockage, and to much(advance) timing,that will eventually make an engine get to hot

[wD-Boston]

Where is your timing set? that along with what your are saying there could be enough blockage, and to much(advance) timing,that will eventually make an engine get to hot

The timing at a 9 degrees. I spoke with various people and they all ask pretty much the same question. I don't think it's advanced enough to make it that hot.....could it?

I'm tempted to pull the intake back off to see whats going on.

I used Felpro gaskets, what would you guys recommend?

wD_Boston

[brads70]

how do the spark plugs look? Just wondering if it running to lean?

[moparmaniac59]

After the engine is warmed up and the thermostat is fully open, have you ever (with the radiator cap off) looked to see how good a flow of coolant is running thru the radiator? A bad water pump or clogged passages can reduce proper flow. What kinda temp is the motor getting up to? Does it only get hot while idling or does it run hot cruising as well? Do you have a clutch fan? Is the clutch good? Also how far is the fan from the radiator? My old small block often ran hot, but it had the original slightly clogged radiator and slightly crudded up water jackets. Any number these things (not properly adjusted/maintained) could cause it to run hot. It's amazing how much difference a clean radiator, proper fan ect. will make. Also try some Redline Water Wetter. It will help lower the cooling temp. It really does work, but is not a cure-all.

                                                      Matt B.

                                                   

[mopar12372]

advanced timming will only over heat a engine with detonation..  check to see if the distributer is in the proper way .

[Aussie Challenger]

Retarded timing will cause overheating, consider blocking off the exhaust cross over so the carby doesn't get as hot, fan and fan shroud should be considered and in correct position to each other.   

[Bullitt-]

That was my thinking after the intake gaskets were changed out, the car didn't run as hot before the start of this mess. I removes the t-stat and the lower radiator hose and manually flushed. I know it will take me only so far but I have noticed that it's taking just a tad longer to get hot so I think I'm on the right track.



wD_Boston

  If junk in the radiator is the problem you really need to take it off & flush it upside down as the top tank is where the junk will accumulate & slow the down-flow of coolant (I'm assuming you have an OE style radiator)....If there's any question as to the condition of the radiator you might take to a shop & have it chemically cleaned....... Advance your timing to at least 15-degrees....This all started with the carb work so you may be running lean.

[Chryco Psycho]

sounds like the vacuum advance is connected to the manifold port not the ported vacuum above the throtlle plates , there should be no vacuum at idle & it should increase with RPM , the manifold vacuum does the opposite .
 Why would you ever replace an Decent AVS carb with the crappy AFB 

[wD-Boston]

how do the spark plugs look? Just wondering if it running to lean?

When the carb was adjust we went on the lean side.

[brads70]

Yep it's lean!    try fattening it up a little, that WILL help the temps!

[wD-Boston]

After the engine is warmed up and the thermostat is fully open, have you ever (with the radiator cap off) looked to see how good a flow of coolant is running thru the radiator? A bad water pump or clogged passages can reduce proper flow. What kinda temp is the motor getting up to? Does it only get hot while idling or does it run hot cruising as well? Do you have a clutch fan? Is the clutch good? Also how far is the fan from the radiator? My old small block often ran hot, but it had the original slightly clogged radiator and slightly crudded up water jackets. Any number these things (not properly adjusted/maintained) could cause it to run hot. It's amazing how much difference a clean radiator, proper fan ect. will make. Also try some Redline Water Wetter. It will help lower the cooling temp. It really does work, but is not a cure-all.

                                                      Matt B.                                           

Yes I removed the cap and fired it up and watched it flow, the 160 degree t-stat opened about 6 minutes after starting  it up. I see flow but to be honest I don't know if it's where it's suppose to be.

I replaced the water pump but the flow is the same....I guess it looks good.

I'm using the rally temp gauge but as you know thats not gonna help much. I ordered a Mr.Gasket radiator cap with built in gauge so I can get an idea on how hot it's running.

The clutch fan is working fine, I had both hand in front of the radiator and it's pulling nice air.
I forgot to measure the the distance of the fan from the radiator before sending it out for a recore but it's pretty close. If I had to guess it's  about 2 1/2 inches.

Sent it out to the radiator shop, currently it's a 2 row so they are gonna try to fit a 4 row. Luck would have it the owner is into hot rods and offered to let me use his tool that will flush out the block with water and compressed air. Hopefully it will be enough to force out anything that might be clogging it.

Thanks for the tip on the Water Wetter, already picked up a bottle.