Totally Frustrated!

[wD-Boston]

advanced timming will only over heat a engine with detonation..  check to see if the distributer is in the proper way .

The distributer was never removed but checked it anyways along with the ecu,cap, rotor and wiring. Everything is as it should.

Retarded timing will cause overheating, consider blocking off the exhaust cross over so the carby doesn't get as hot, fan and fan shroud should be considered and in correct position to each other.   

Heh I was wondering what those little square plates were for that came with the gasket kit. I wasn't aware of the heat crossover till reading a few of the threads here.

I have the factory service manual and tried googling but I can't seem to find a pic that shows me where  it is. I'd like to try it if I end up redoing the intake gaskets over again.

  If junk in the radiator is the problem you really need to take it off & flush it upside down as the top tank is where the junk will accumulate & slow the down-flow of coolant (I'm assuming you have an OE style radiator)....If there's any question as to the condition of the radiator you might take to a shop & have it chemically cleaned....... Advance your timing to at least 15-degrees....This all started with the carb work so you may be running lean.

The radiator is out for a recore so it eliminates that part of the equation. It's currently running a -9 but it appears that I'm running lean. Please forgive my newbness as I'm not a mechanic but I thought running lean was a good thing.

sounds like the vacuum advance is connected to the manifold port not the ported vacuum above the throtlle plates , there should be no vacuum at idle & it should increase with RPM , the manifold vacuum does the opposite .
 Why would you ever replace an Decent AVS carb with the crappy AFB 

The vacuum advance is connected on the timed port not the manifold port. Your spot on Chryco when I popped in the va the rpm did go up.

Yeah I know, by buddy has been telling me how great the eddy carbs are forever so I broke down and got one. But I have to say that I swapped them out a few times while trying to trouble shoot this mess and I can say with confidence I prefer the the Carter and plan on reinstalling it once I get this sorted out.

[wD-Boston]

Yep it's lean!    try fattening it up a little, that WILL help the temps!

Thanks Brad I'll give it a go once I get my radiator back.

[ChallengerHK]

Are you running a fan shroud?

[drewcrane]

Are you running a fan shroud?

Do you have any pic under the hood ?,just to see what you have currently,I have had cooling problems and the air here is much thinner and have done a few tricks to over come some alot of these issues, post a pic and perhaps i can help 

also i know you have a fan shroud , but one of the things i have had a problem is the viscous fan clutch , sometimes  they malfunction and dont work right,maybe its just me ,post a pic so we can see your set up

[acudanut]

 I Never have used a fan Shroud with a 3 row radiator and the viscous fan clutch is awesome. Never had any problems, especially with big blocks.

[Chryco Psycho]

you can insert an aleen wrench into the hose nipple on the VA on the dist , turn it clockwise , it will go about 14 turns & remove approx 1 degree of advance / full turn , set the timing so you have 36 * total at about 3000 rpm & approx 12-14 at idle .
 adiing fuel is the same with an oxy act torch , the leaner it is the hotter it is , add fuel & it will drop the temps
 Make sure the fan is on the clutch the correct way around , the cupped side of the blades should be towards the engine , I have seen a number of them installed backwards
Block the heat crossover port ,this keep a lot of heat out of the intake & away from the carb & fuel line

[wD-Boston]

you can insert an aleen wrench into the hose nipple on the VA on the dist , turn it clockwise , it will go about 14 turns & remove approx 1 degree of advance / full turn , set the timing so you have 36 * total at about 3000 rpm & approx 12-14 at idle .
 adiing fuel is the same with an oxy act torch , the leaner it is the hotter it is , add fuel & it will drop the temps
 Make sure the fan is on the clutch the correct way around , the cupped side of the blades should be towards the engine , I have seen a number of them installed backwards
Block the heat crossover port ,this keep a lot of heat out of the intake & away from the carb & fuel line

I read the pfd on it Chryco and your right it's 3/32 allen. 

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf

Once I get the radiator back in the car I'll have a look at that.

The clutch fan is working and installed correctly. When I replaced the intake manifold gasket was when the engine started running hot and having all these issues. The car ran fine for the last 19 years, so I'm looking at what I changed prior to that and it was the intake even tho most I have talked to have dismissed it.

Can someone please explain to me or show me a pic of the heat crossover port as I have no clue where it's located.

I really what to thank everyone for there for there input it is greatly appreciated

[Aussie Challenger]

The heat cross over port is the centre one on the manifold & head. The front 2 ports are inlet same as the rear 2 ports, you can see the valves down them if unsure. The cross over is also smaller.

[shadango]

I skipped putting the plates in mine the last time I had the manifold off because I didnt have the plates and couldnt figure out how they are sealed and stay in place with the main gasket....wishing I had....

[moper]

"The vacuum advance is connected on the timed port not the manifold port. Your spot on Chryco when I popped in the va the rpm did go up."

I think you're getting some confusing help here. I do like edelbrocks but they typically are lean out of the box, and they usually have a stone filter in the fuel inlet that you should remove and toss. Plus there's a very good chance the step up springs are not right for your package. So I'd say get a strip kit and have someone that knows how to tune a carb (by referral, not by self admission) take a look at it. What I see with your above remark is the carb idle speed screw is in too far. You should not have any vacuum pressent at the vacuum advance nipple (ported vacuum as you said...) if the engine is idling. Chances are it's basic tuning you need. You should have the timing adjusted and the curve set up properly too. You're not too far away from me, or I might be able to recommend a guy closer to you that could help. He's also a member here but I'll have to ask if he can help out.

[Bullitt-]

It's currently running a -9 but it appears that I'm running lean. Please forgive my newbness as I'm not a mechanic but I thought running lean was a good thing.

    As you can see several folks here have suggested this may be an issue...
 As with most things a little is good but to much is bad, over lean creates heat & can damage the engine not to mention cause overheating, a little lean will help fuel economy & power. Only way do tune it nuts on is with an O2 sensor/gauge.
  See what the noodle-heads have to say
http://hypography.com/forums/chemistry/3149-why-does-lean-engine-run-hot.html

[Road_Runner]

I'm a fair mechanic, but I've trouble-shooted computer systems for the last 30 years. You said:

"The car ran fine for the last 19 years, so I'm looking at what I changed prior to that and it was the intake even tho most I have talked to have dismissed it."

I think what you're saying here is it ran fine before I did X so I need to see what problems X might have caused.  EXACTLY!!  It's amazing how many non-productive hours are wasted in the IT world before ruling out the obvious, "What changed?".  That's not to say it has to be related to your changes, it could just be an unfortunate coincidence, but more often than not its the obvious first place to look.   At this point it may be impossible to go back to a known state since you've changed so many things since the problem began, but looking at the specific changes you made right before the problem started can't be a bad idea.  Good luck, persistant problems suck.

Later, Jim

[wD-Boston]

Ok so I tried blasting high pressured water into the bock and didn't see and foreign matter but did notice that it wasn't a smooth flow so I finally bit the bullet and yanked the intake back off and here is what I found....

The left side water port was slightly off and the right side there was a bead of rtv surrounding the jacket which made it smaller.

I plan on replacing the gaskets this weekend. I got a Mopar performance gasket kit and it came with the heat cross over block off plates. Is this the port I'm suppose to block off (see pic)? Do I install the plates first then the gasket or the other way around?


So It appears that I created several smaller problems that led to one big one. Once the gasket back in place I'll fatten up the fuel air on the eddy, adjust the timing and adjust the vac advance and see what happens.

[wD-Boston]

"The vacuum advance is connected on the timed port not the manifold port. Your spot on Chryco when I popped in the va the rpm did go up."

I think you're getting some confusing help here. I do like edelbrocks but they typically are lean out of the box, and they usually have a stone filter in the fuel inlet that you should remove and toss. Plus there's a very good chance the step up springs are not right for your package. So I'd say get a strip kit and have someone that knows how to tune a carb (by referral, not by self admission) take a look at it. What I see with your above remark is the carb idle speed screw is in too far. You should not have any vacuum pressent at the vacuum advance nipple (ported vacuum as you said...) if the engine is idling. Chances are it's basic tuning you need. You should have the timing adjusted and the curve set up properly too. You're not too far away from me, or I might be able to recommend a guy closer to you that could help. He's also a member here but I'll have to ask if he can help out.

Thanks for the offer moper. Once I get everything back together and still have issues I'll give you a shout.

[brads70]

yep that's the crossover! I might be wrong but I don't think the "missmatch" that you see is enough to make it overheat? Just my