340 vs 440

[HP2]

For above average handling capability, you can always step up the t-bar/sbar combo to take on the extra weight. For anything but a rules constrained track car, that will probably suffice.

The issue with big blocks and torsion bars is that there is a limit with how big a t-bar you can get to support a big block. No big deal for cruising or unsanctioned road racing, but get into autocross or a organization with suspension/tire rules and you can be at a disadvantage when the coil spring cars can start stepping up in rates past the t-bar options at our disposal.

[Cooter]

I've always been a "heads up" kinda guy and it's alot easier to admit it to myself that I "Brung" all I could....No "Oh damn, I mighta got him/her if I had a BB" for me....You outrun me in my BB, all it proves is you got more money than I do...Speed costs whether its a BB Or SB, and If I'm outrun in my $6500 Junk, then it doesn't prove whether one engine is "Better" than the other, just that one person has more money than the other. ESPECIALLY, when dealing with outrunning a BB with a SB...

[72hemi]

Just because someone has a faster car than you doesn't mean they have necessarily spent more money then you. They may be able to do a lot of work themselves and know special tricks to get extra performance, they may have a better suspension setup, they may have put their car on a huge diet. There are many factors involved.

[drewcrane]

For above average handling capability, you can always step up the t-bar/sbar combo to take on the extra weight. For anything but a rules constrained track car, that will probably suffice.

The issue with big blocks and torsion bars is that there is a limit with how big a t-bar you can get to support a big block. No big deal for cruising or unsanctioned road racing, but get into autocross or a organization with suspension/tire rules and you can be at a disadvantage when the coil spring cars can start stepping up in rates past the t-bar options at our disposal.

 :iagree:I run a bb with lots of aluminum ,and I certainly wont get to run in any authentic vintage racing,and i have run with some vintage mustangs and the were wondering why i was so much faster in the straights ,until i opened my hood and they all said no" vintage racing for this car"

[Cooter]

Just because someone has a faster car than you doesn't mean they have necessarily spent more money then you. They may be able to do a lot of work themselves and know special tricks to get extra performance, they may have a better suspension setup, they may have put their car on a huge diet. There are many factors involved.

Well, My BB runs High tens/low elevens and I know it took one helluva lotta money to get a BB there, I can only emagine what a SB would cost. Now as you stated, it you dump a 340 in aGo Kart, well then we ain't talking the same thing now are we?

[hotrod98]

I've never been one to throw a lot of money into an engine just to go faster and faster and faster. The guys that do that tend to either run out of money or become too broke to go racing.
That's the main reason I went with a big block. It runs just fast enough and I can race all year long. To save money, I usually just throw on a fresh Wix racing filter and add a quart of oil during the season and my engines last a long time. I've become somewhat miserly in my old age. I sure wish I had all of the money back that I've wasted on my race cars that I raced in the 70's, 80's and 90's.

[HP2]

My current small block cost me around $3500-4000 to build in the mid 90s. It runs 12.2s in Denver, which would be mid 11s to you sea level guys, and would be around 125 mph in a car that weighs 2950#. I've had this combo for about 15 years and have only needed to adjust valves and change oil and plugs. Last time I checked bearing clearences, they were still spot on. It is easily capable of 8000 rpm and I've had it there before, but I granny shift it at 6500 and it has lived a sweet and happy life without a lot of fuss for me.

If it lets go, I may consider going big block, but for now it fills the bill quite nicely. Sometimes you just need to run with whatcha got.

By comparsion, my bro has a Charger with a 440 six pak set up in it. Basic stock rebuild,not sure what it cost since it was done before he got it. His runs low 14s at 110. So they are actually close in power, I'd imagine close in cost, the small block may have been a bit cheaper since I did a lot of the work myself. If I applied the same approoch to a big block that I used in the small block, would it outpower the small block? I'd have to think so. But for now, my 360 runs comparable to and better than any number of big blocks I know. But, with that said, my small block is certainly not as street friendly as most of those same big blocks.

[cudadave72]

For really big power it will take a bit more money to build a small block, however for a run of the mill stroker like mine it does not. Stroker kit off ebay (same as mine) is around $1600.00 including the crank, rods and pistons. Edelbrock heads like mine around 1200.00. That is the same or less than big block heads. Mine at this time are hand ported. Everything else is off the shelf stuff. The right combo has alot to do with it. 

[HP2]

Does anyone know if Mopar is still making the P5249812 aluminum A block? While it would require all new heads, at 100#, that is pretty light weight.

[Moparal]

Ron, found this kinda in your area. Take a look and see. It's a 520 cube tho

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-520-STROKER-440-CHRYSLER-DODGE-CUDA-SHORTBLOCK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad9fae3d2QQitemZ390204154834QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[ntstlgl1970]

Does anyone know if Mopar is still making the P5249812 aluminum A block? While it would require all new heads, at 100#, that is pretty light weight.

Is that is the sprint car block? I think they still make it but everything is custom for those motors...I always thought that getting a used/take out nascar/busch/craftsman truck motor would be  nice setup if it was detuned a little to keep the valvetrain from eating itself

[brads70]

Is that is the sprint car block? I think they still make it but everything is custom for those motors...I always thought that getting a used/take out nascar/busch/craftsman truck motor would be  nice setup if it was detuned a little to keep the valvetrain from eating itself

I thought of that too ( I have a few connections) but they are dry sump motors and not very street friendly. Every thing is different bell housing etc.... Not impossible but a lot of work and money to make it work.

[JH23]

in a E body i choose the SB (340-360) best weight balanced vehicule with sb...

[Chryco Psycho]

I have always prefered the Big blocks , having the oil pump outside of the pan , dist in front , dry intake with Air gap , skirted block , removable water pump without removing the housing all makes sense to me , add the stroker kits & alum parts & you have a decently light weight engine with massive torque , for hard cornering the small block has an advantage but everywhere else the big block rules 

[MizzouRT]

Yes, both make sweet street engines in a mild configuration.  I've owned both and personal preference is for the 440, with the main reason the instant power you always have on tap at any rpm, including below 3000 or even 2000 rpm.  With the small block, you need to keep you revs up to produce power (same with 5.7 in modern Challenger, I might add).  I really enjoy a mild 340 will like a manual transmission, even with power equipment and street gears.  I am not so keen on a stock or mild 340 with lots power equipment, street gears and an automatic as sometimes you can get caught below your powerband...