Vibrations ... The saga continues...

[swede-cuda]

peeled the hump back to allow full access.Slipped another two washers each side for a total of 5 per.Approx. 3/4". Not a lot of change. I'll try spinning the wheels up on stands. Maybe another couple washers.

:clueless:hej.whats this hump yo :clueless:ur cutting and peeling on???sorry i have no help to give,just want to be able to understand.could you explain in swenglish please

[bigblue73]

If you say it's RPM related then shouldn't you be looking at something in front of the transmission and not in the rear axle and drive shaft area?  The drive shaft will spin proportionally to MPH, not RPM.  If it is really RPM related then you should be able to reproduce the problem in every gear at the same RPM.

You can physically obtain the same drive shaft speed in every gear.  The transmission multiplies the ratios to obtain MPH....The rpm will happen in every gear.  It may not be noticeable or as noticeable until the RPM settles down and Yes this is at a higher MPH since the engine and transmission and at or beyond the one to one ratio.

[bigblue73]

Robert with you running a 4 link - you have all the adjustment in the world.  What are your angles?

[IMNCARN82]

I don't know the angles anymore,Gave up on my gauge.Went with what felt better/worse a long time ago. It is very adjustable. Nothing I do does anything. 
So I just gotta' keep playing with it.   There's a distinct buzz in the shifter handle. Worse in 2nd/4th. Oddly.   I've cut/opened up the transmission hump to allow it to move around freely. FWIW when I jack it up to slip washers in.It's a tad tighter on one side.Not much.  Going to mess with it.      Not sure what to do though.

[bigblue73]

Please explain - it got a tad tighter?  What got tighter the shifter handle?  Look and see if you have anything touching the RMS K member.  I could be a header or power steering pump.  It just seems to me like you have metal to metal contact that transmits the Buzz into the drive train.  I understand your frustration on this.

[IMNCARN82]

I wish...   Nope,Nothing is hitting anything. When I jack up the trans. the gap is different slightly from one side to the other. Barley anything. I installed new alignment pins.New bell.It fit perfectly.  My gut says axle yoke. I've had other people drive with me in the pass. seat.  Sounds like it's coming from that area.  I'm going to get some pics... Thanks all! R/T

[cwestra]

You can physically obtain the same drive shaft speed in every gear.  The transmission multiplies the ratios to obtain MPH....The rpm will happen in every gear.  It may not be noticeable or as noticeable until the RPM settles down and Yes this is at a higher MPH since the engine and transmission and at or beyond the one to one ratio.

Yeah, I think I understand the basics of how a transmission works.  You may be able to obtain the same drive shaft speed in every gear but you may also blow your motor while doing so.  Drive shaft speed is a heck of a lot slower at 5,000 (engine) RPM in 1st gear than at 5,000 (engine) RPM in 4th.  The point is as you're going through the gears, running the RPM's up to approximately the same level through each gear if you see the problem occurring during each gear then don't look for the source of the problem to be behind the transmission.

[brads70]

Do you have drum brakes? I ask as I had a vibration that got worce the faster I drove in my old 93 Caprice( family sled) I put the rear up on jack stands and removed the wheels ( lug nuts on to hold on the drums) still vibrated ( I thought it was the new tires I had just bought) So I ,one at a time removed the brake drums and found it was a brake drum! The balancing weight has fell off.  When doing this DON'T TOUCH THE BRAKES!!!! just shut off the engine then put it into park when the axels stop turning.
...something easy and cheap to check?

[ntstlgl1970]

Do you have drum brakes? I ask as I had a vibration that got worce the faster I drove in my old 93 Caprice( family sled) I put the rear up on jack stands and removed the wheels ( lug nuts on to hold on the drums) still vibrated ( I thought it was the new tires I had just bought) So I ,one at a time removed the brake drums and found it was a brake drum! The balancing weight has fell off.  When doing this DON'T TOUCH THE BRAKES!!!! just shut off the engine then put it into park when the axels stop turning.
...something easy and cheap to check?

Not a bad idea. Removing the wheels, try it. If no change, remove the discs. If no change, remove the driveshaft/remove the front yoke and put that back in the trans to prevent leaks. See what happens. Also, since the noise is more prevalent in 2nd and 4th, is there a shift throw limiter on your shifter? (set screw and locknut one forward-one back), it might be set too loose or tight since the 2 and 4 throw is in the same direction which could contribute to the noise though I doubt would have anything to do with the vibration. When you replaced the block dowels, did you check the bellhousing to flywheel runout? mopars are pretty notorious for being off in this area. Oh and Tremecs make a little more noise in neutral, that's just the way they are.

[IMNCARN82]

Thanks for the help. I'll try and explain.   It's 4 wheel discs. No drum type parking brake.   Tremec has an updated shifter for this unit.I'll look into that. Not sure on the limiter.I've loosened the 3 mounting bolts on the side and adjusted to try and get smoother shifts.That did nothing.  I did not check fly to bell runout.  Spinning it up on jacks with and without wheels is next.  Getting discouraged from it. Nothing i do does anything. The cheap plastic grips are hollow,Hardwood grips would help.I'd like to get a one-piece machined handle made.As I'm giving up.   IMO the tremec ain't gonna' hold up. I'll be all over it again.  FWIW... I don't care. I love the car so much.it doesn't matter. I don't care what it takes. It's frustrating.    starting to loose it.   We are running Goodyear eagle f1 tires on those 18's i got. It will give me an opportunity to try something all new in rimz/tires.  To me it sounds like ,Feels like something in the rear axle. But i must admit: I'm a dumba$$. Not sure it did this with the 4 speed.  ok. I'm goin' to work. 

[IMNCARN82]

Last night monkeying around with her up on jacks.I was able to get some side to side movement in the rear u-joint.Er so i thought. So I brought the driveshaft with me this morning on the way to re shoot the Charger.Had the guy who cut it down/balanced it check it quick. Told him my problem. He told me with the inner clip,The pinion yolk can get worn causing play.He also gave me some new straps.Told me the u-joints were good,greased them. I went back home tossed it back in there.180* from where it was. Just to see. Also there's a little room to hold the straps tighter together as they are tightened down.  Took her out to the shop here and W0W what a difference!!!!!!The buzz isn't quite as bad.But the vibration at speed is way better!!! So... It's the yolk. Re-checked it and found a small groove worn partially on one side.   My question is now do I hold it from spinning and remove the nut? Is that what holds that yolk on?  How do I get it off?   After so long of playing around with it... thought it was me (my work). It's just a 50.00 dollar piece.   The word overjoyed came to mind. I'd like to thank you guys for all the help with this. It's been a real bummer. Would the Dodge dealer have one? or NAPA?  I'd like to fix it for this weekend if possible.  But now I'm on the right track!!!    
   R/T

[brads70]

To remove it use an impact gun if you have one?

[IMNCARN82]

Sure I got an impact gun. Was actually thinkin' of that too. So it just slides off then? Thanks Brad!

[brads70]

yep it's on splines, should just slide off. I had to use a rubber hammer and/or a hammer and an aluminum punch to get it started. You might as well change the pinion seal while your there too? Cheap insurance?

[Cooter]

Uh Gentlemen, I don't wanna rain the parade here, but if this is an 8 3/4 rear with say a Crush sleeve, then you might wanna mark that pinion nut and the end of the splines as to make SURE you get it back EXACTLY where it came off....

Otherwise, you hammer it back on there too tight and say hello to a whole new set of problems....