Vibrations ... The saga continues...

[ShelbyDogg]

Any Updates?   It only takes 5 minutes to drill the one hole on a drill press. It takes longer to measure the spot then mark it.

[IMNCARN82]

Ya I just got the flywheel back. He said my info. was wrong. There's a bunch of holes.Like 8. So,I'm under there bolting stuff up. he advised getting it with the bell on and firing her up. my mechanic said that too. But i couldnt feel it much just sitting there. 

[ShelbyDogg]

Sorry to tell you Robert, but the drilling for the 340 cast crank is (1) hole.  You should have taken my pictures to a machinist and not a mechanic that can't read the diagrams.  I had mine drilled by a friend, only because I don't have a drill press to measure the drill bit depth.  If you look at the picture, you can see that for yourself.

I have a feeling that you will be looking for a new flywheel to have drilled again.

[IMNCARN82]

Umm... yeah...   I wasn't too pleased. I did take your pictures to a machinist.Not a mechanic. He said it was the wrong flywheel.And he balanced it to a cast crank 340 mandrel. If I have any problems I should let him know.    Now I'm a little more concerned. Not sure what to do.   

[ShelbyDogg]

Maybe he had to balance it first, then add the off-balance. That would have been the correct way to do it. I've had to have brand new flywheels balanced also.

If it is now treally screwed up;

You can buy another flywheel, have it checked for neutral balance, then have the one hole drilled by a guy that can read the pictures or buy a new flywheel that has the offset weight for the 340. 

You can take your modified flywheel to a balancer so that he can check it to see how much the other guy took off of it.  Adding that little bit of weight should make it balance to neutral again.

If you really think the guy knew what he was doing, put it on and try it.

[IMNCARN82]

 Well,I don't really care too much anymore what happens now. I'm putting it back together. Thanks for trying to help,I'm grateful.  Cross your fingers,because if it's worse I'll be seeking therapy here. About at the end of my rope.

[IMNCARN82]

This flywheel is a new Hayes 11-330. That's all I know.

[sadil340]

Did it fix your problem? We looked at the slip yolk very carefully.both on and off the lift.I thought the shaft was too long.but he said it was good.I'm about to call on the flywheel.no word from him. Would have been a great day for a cruise.going to be 60*!By the time I get her back together there will be arctic conditions.

Unfortunately I can't say yet that it was definitely the problem. I have not had the shaft re-balanced. The play was not in and out but up and down indicating that the part that slips into the tailshaft had worn down a bit. I hope to get things balanced soon and if the roads cooperate will report back.

[mopar12372]

cant wait to see a smokey burnout on you tube.

[shadango]

I have a Mopar friend that works in a 4-wheel drive shop - he brought his dial indicator and moved the yoke up and down and measured the travel. He said maximum tolerance was about .004 and it was .032 - I would guess you could us a caliper that has a real fine measurement but I don't have any idea what the spec is. If you need to know maybe Denny's Driveshaft can help - that's where I bought the replacement yoke.

Thanks  I have been wondering about my driveshaft/yoke for a while now.   IMNCARN82 mentioned length of driveshaft.....is a 727 shaft the same length as a 904 on an 8 3/4" fish?

[ShelbyDogg]

727 and 833 driveshafts are the same length but change from u-joint center to center depending on the size of the u-joint, large or small (yokes and joints).  a 904 shaft would have to be shortened then use a different front yoke to mate up with a 727.

[IMNCARN82]

Well... I'm about ready to go here.Everything was going fine until I got in a fight with the oil pan.The milodon fits terrible.Can't believe I put that thing back on...
Hafta' order something else. Plus a pickup,dang.$$,and another gasket. The starter and z bar kit are on their way. New header gaskets tomorrow.    Will I have to pull the oil pump to put on a deeper pickup? Or will it screw on? Guess I'm thinking of trying moroso. Anywayz,This will be interesting... It's been quite a learning experience .  Wonder what she will do. I forgot how cozy it gets lying under there! R/T

[mopar12372]

ya theres nothing like the feeling of cold concrete....... i just cant wait

[bigblue73]

Good morning Robert -

Please read this - This is from a post over on Moparts...

The Spec Stage 3 clutch set-up is a nice peice,...I'd toss the Aluminum flywheel though, too light for street use, Keisler has steel SFI flywheels for internal/external balance,....I run 4:10's with my Keisler TKO 600/650 5 spd .064 OD in my Daytona,...top end is 140ish MPH, street performance is awesome with that gear (running 440-6, 450 dynoed HP),......my car is running Keislers prototype 2nd gen B Body TKO 600/650 (2004 unit), it's pretty much the same unit you have,...I'd recommend you use the factory 4 spd hump, and split the floor hump accordingly so you can tuck the tranny up to proper height, confirm what your exsisting driveline/transmission angle is before conversion, mock up just the bell and tranny to see what you need to modify on either the floor or tranny case to obtain the proper driveline angle using an inclination meter,...do dial in the bellhousing to within .001-.0015, I'd recommend that if you have the older style hyd master cylinder, you should upgrade now to the Keisler/Wilwood modified master and bleeder spplied line, the HYD. TOB supplied is fine,...but the older master supplied isn't up to snuff, run Blue Racing Fluid, (VW Audi Porsche dealership), also recommend you cover the stainless braid hyd line with hi-temp spark plug insulation, esp in a header application....your tranny probally has the older Gen 1 or 2 shift tower, I'd strongly recommend an upgrade to the Gen 3 shift tower, much better unit, smoother shifts, more positive detent, eliminates the shifter "buzzsaw" vibration some customer experience at certain RPM ranges with the older stlye shift towers,...when installing the TKO 600 in your B body, remove the shift tower, 2 bolts, it makes installation that much easier, just be sure the FLAT of the shifter nub is facing towards the drivers side, as it is easy to install the shift tower 180 degress off, resulting in your shifter location being off,....the shift tower will be relocated in your install, Keisler has offset brackets to relocate the shifter to "factory" location,....bench or console

[IMNCARN82]

Fired her up... Took it out. It's still there.If anything it's worse agai.Bigger shakes.Slightly more aggressive. Only under acceleration.The engine seems to wobble different. Not real bad,Just different.I didn't get her warmed up er nothin.
So,I'll call the balancing guy in the a.m.Not sure what else to try now.Hafta check the runout. I was ready for disappointment. But I'm still bummed.I'll never give up.As now it is getting personal.