Vibrations ... The saga continues...

[mopar12372]

yes !!

use a 318 steel crank / 318 balancer / then you can use a standard fly wheel . then it eliminates the external balance hell your in .
make sure the balancer hasent spun on the rubber. if the 318 crank is in spec and all the journals are clean and polished you could buy the bear ings that go with what ever it measures too and just have the assemblie balanced and put together . cranks dont always have to be turned if they are measured and are within spec.

[ShelbyDogg]

Make sure you get an early 318 forged crank, many of the later ones were cast too.  After 68? I'm not sure where they changed. Look at the journals  to finfd the correct one.

[IMNCARN82]

And where would I find one of those? Then rebuild it again using the old stuff?
I know you guys are trying to help but it doesn't seem to make sense to do it all again and not replace everything. Is it the cost?  That is how this whole thing started... The last thing I want is to go through it again and either have problems or not enough power.  Another question...   Why does it cost 5k to build an engine if I supply the block,Heads,Ign.,Ect...        And I can buy a whole new complete engine for 5k. New block and everything. Why is that?  Sounds like engine builders are like bodyshops...
Mostly thieves.     I'll try and find a 318 crank butt...

[ShelbyDogg]

Then rebuild it again using the old stuff?    I'll try and find a 318 crank butt...

I thought you just need to get that thing apart then balanced. $300 tops. No sense in replacing anything again.

I was just saying that, if you have to take it all to get it all balanced, you might as well give the guy a 318 steel crank and balancer, instead og the 340 cast one.  That will make your 340 a little more valuable.  If you don't have another crank, have it all balanced as is and that should fix your vibration problem. 
(if the guy knows how to balance properly)

[IMNCARN82]

Think I found a steel 318 crank. Not sure on price...    So I'd use my old (new) H/B and get a new flywheel.   300 bucks would just cover the balancing. But 1K and fixed is easier to choke down vs. 4.5K  So I hear you...
Bro says get the 360 going and save for a stroker.  I'm torn. if I could just do it all myself it wouldn't be a big deal. I might try. Been looking at some books to read.     So, 318 crank,New crank bearings,balance,re-assembly... Hmmm

[IMNCARN82]

 why it rotates my pics I don't know...   butt here's the current state... All I need is that flywheel,And a new cap/rotor.  360 is almost buttoned up. Getting anxious to give her a go.And nervous.  No werd on the 318 crank.  The rear sump pan is pretty low,I do have access to a new jegs 360 center sump pan.  50 bucks. Might try it. 

[ShelbyDogg]

why it rotates my pics I don't know...   butt here's the current state... All I need is that flywheel,And a new cap/rotor.  360 is almost buttoned up. Getting anxious to give her a go.And nervous.  No werd on the 318 crank.  The rear sump pan is pretty low,I do have access to a new jegs 360 center sump pan.  50 bucks. Might try it.

Forgot to say the truck pan sumps are on the rear.  Good pan for a drag racer though.  Hope the pickup comes with that $50 pan.

[ChallengerHK]

why it rotates my pics I don't know...

Rotated and lightened.

[IMNCARN82]

Hey thanks!!  It doesn't look half bad in there...

Can someone please help me get this distributer in right?  I turn it over by hand until TDC,Both valves closed.Timing mark is in the scale. That's the compression stroke?  Then when I put it in,I'd expect the rotor to point to #1 on my cap. but it doesn't.   How do I get this right?   

[ShelbyDogg]

Hey thanks!!  It doesn't look half bad in there...

Can someone please help me get this distributer in right?  I turn it over by hand until TDC,Both valves closed.Timing mark is in the scale. That's the compression stroke?  Then when I put it in,I'd expect the rotor to point to #1 on my cap. but it doesn't.   How do I get this right?

I take a big screwdriver and insert it into the distributor cam gear under the distributor. I turn it so it rotates and lifts itself out of the cam gear. I jump one tooth at a time then rotate it back down till I have it pointing the direction that I want it. Then drop the distributor in.

To find TDC, I crank the engine with the starter with my finger over the #1 spark plug hole. When it blows your finger out, let off the starter, then rotate the engine backwards a little bit to line up your TDC mark.

[IMNCARN82]

All I did was pull out the distributer. The gear hasn't moved or anything.   I took out #1 plug  and stuck a small screwdriver in there. Rotated the engine by hand clockwise till it was all the way up,both valves closed.     Hmmm,I hear you on skipping the gears with a large flat blade... But I didn't think I'd have to do anything like that.  So the rotor should be at #1. Hmm   Thanks Shelbydog  I can't exactly spin it with the starter yet!

[IMNCARN82]

I had to go 3 teeth. should the timing mark be close ? It's past it a little ways. But I think I got it...

[ShelbyDogg]

I had to go 3 teeth. should the timing mark be close ? It's past it a little ways. But I think I got it...

I'm thinking when you pulled the distributor, the gear raised up with it then meshed back in wherever it wanted. Get the rotor to point where you want it for now. When you're close to starting it, pull all the plugs out, hook up the plug wires to them, then lay them on the intake. Hook up a timing light and hit the starter. Now is the time to set the timing, then lock it down. It the vacuum canister hits anything or you want a little more adjustment one way or the other, then move it a couple more teeth.

At TDC, your rotor should be a little past #1 already.

[IMNCARN82]

I rotated it once and checked the cap. it was off. But then I thought what about the other side.2-8. Went another and it was on #1. So I think I'm good. Let me get that flywheel and chuck it back together. It's a billet with no vacume advance. hei cap.      ya,At TDC it should be just past.   Might have someone with more knowledge around here double check me, but i think i just learn ed somethin'   Thanx SD   cap and rotor only come separate and i like the all rubber V/C gaskets so i'm waiting till' tues. anywayz. Might get that flywheel this afternoon and get the rest of her together this weekend. Getting this thing to Goldens car cruize next sat. would be a dream. This 360 looks real good inside!     Hey, Should I prime the oiling system? I don't have the tool but... R/T

[mopar12372]

you should prime it . i removed the top of my 440 points distributer added a washer and a roll pin on top then put it in the oil pump and sspun away and rotated the engine a few time to make ture the oil was getting to the top