Vibrations ... The saga continues...

[wegner426]

I have been fighting a vibration in my TKO 600 in My Cuda also.  Have checked and changed angles, road force balanced tires and wheels, put in new 3 rd member, new rear end housing, new axles, new drive shaft built and high speed balanced by dynotech engineering.  Vibration still there.  I also have Reilly front and rear suspension, and my car is pretty low.  I think the problem is this:

1)  I am running 1350 u joints, and the driveshaft has to be run too far out to miss the abortion they call shift linkage that comes out of the case right above the output shaft.  I had a slip yoke with a 6 inch barrel installed when I had dynotech build the shaft for more stability.  The Keisler u joint setup on the shaft they supplied would hit also.

2)  Most cars with aftermarket suspension are lowered, as is mine.  My trans is down 3.5 degrees and the pinion is pointed up 3.5 degrees so equal and opposite.  The Pinion is higher than the output shat of trans, so the driveshaft runs uphill.  I calculate that I have a working angle of about 4.5 degrees which is too much according to Spicer's info on their u joint pages.

3)  I think the fix is to get a Passon 5 speed so the slip yoke can be slid in where it needs to be, and install a driveshaft with a CV joint at the front to address the working angle, can set the rear joint angle to .5 degrees and let the CV joint handle the working angle in the front.   Similar to this:  http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-driveshafts/chevrolet/chevrolet-camaro-2010-2011-3-5-6-speed-auto-aluminum-1-piece-driveshaft

[cwestra]

I hear ya! You do all that work and it's not fun to drive because of the vibration.

I've been through the same steps. The latest is I ordered a new flywheel, pilot bearing (not bushing this time) and clutch fork/pivot. I'm hoping the input shaft was vibrating either due to an out of balance or out of true flywheel or some issue with the pilot bearing. Teardown about to start, will let you know the results.

My theory on the input shaft came when I realized that if I got the car up to speed and the vibration was strong, and I pushed in the clutch I could make the vibration stop by revving it in neutral and then putting it back in gear. This gave me the impression that the input shaft could "walk" and when I pushed in the clutch it found its own state of balance. Did you try that?

That is very similar to the characteristics in my car.  Vibration comes in around 70 but if I push the clutch in and, in my case, slowly let it out I can usually get the vibration to go away.  Very inconsistent, though.  I believe my problem is in the tail shaft or drive shaft area, not the front part of the trans (input shaft area) since I can only get it to occur at higher road speeds (drive shaft speed).  If the problem was in the front part of the trans (or even engine) then the vibration should be reproducible in any gear (around the same engine speed), which is not the case with my car. 

I happen to have a lot of play between the tail shaft bushing and the slip yoke.  I've replace the slip yoke with a brand new one but still have the play.  That's the area I'll continue to focus on.

Anyway, good luck with solving your problem.  If it's any consolation, your not alone.

[IMNCARN82]

Ya thanx. Not sure what to do now.  Sure a new Passon would be great! How many years have we been waiting? Wish I had the 4 speed to put back in and try.  But I don't like to talk about that deal. Dumbest thing I've ever done.   The OD is just so worth it with 3:91's.   passon...  Passon passon...

[IMNCARN82]

I just don't know what to do anymore... Gave away all my 4 speed stuff. it stings.    guess i need to go that direction though. no other way. no passon.     Might call Brewers for a quote.      at the end of my rope...

[Chryco Psycho]

73E was saying Jamie si ready to go with the 833 5 spd

[73EStroker]

All I know at present with the A855 is that the final part that Jaimie was waiting for the machinists to complete is in his hands. That could be one piece or many but he had to test to ensure the part is good to go. That was about 3 weeks back so where he is now I do not know. Been keeping an eye on Moparts but no updates there except non-related banter from others. He must be close as he is not saying anything and my supplier agent says he cannot take any more deposits! Don't know if that means Jaimie wants to clear the backlog first. He did say he can do up to 40 units per week and the backlog is around 240ish. That's all I know folks.

[HP2]

I don't doubt the Passon trans is going to be a good unit. However, he has no problem saying he won't release it until he is satisfed with its performance. Its been a couple years already, it could take a couple more, although I think they are really trying to wrap it up this year. Even with that, once they start, they do not want to slam things through production and cause any issues, so I'm betting production will start of slow and methodical. That also means would be minimum of 6 weeks to clear all the back log once things to gear up (I'm betting longer), so if you could put a deposit down now, you probably wouldn't get a trans until the end of the year, best case.

It might be worth it to just spring for another 4 gear set up right now. Careful shopping can net you an 833 for a grand or less, then you can pick up a few other odd ball parts your missing along the way and get it back on the road. Four speed parts hold value reasonably well, so you could always recoup the cash in the future. Heck, you can get an entire 4 speed swap for $4k.  Maybe, if you are going to pay for a new unit, get the OD 4 spd conversion from Passon to bridge the gap until they complete the 5 speed unit. Sure its missing a gear, but its better than the grief you have from this set up.

[IMNCARN82]

Thanks for the input...    Ya, I've given up on any 5 speed. The Passon will be a year out easy...   So I'll leave the tko in there until fishing season. I need a new anchor.   My plan is to do the body,Ect...  And leave the engine bay for last.  Keep it running for now. Who knows maybe it will blow up.      I'll start lookn for an A833.   Dang.     I am SO pissed off       tremec sux...

[73EStroker]

Wifey says that someone from Passon left a message on our phone that said a month to go. That makes sense as Jaimie only had to proof that one interlock for 5/R then get it into production. All the other speculation may be unfounded. He wants to recoup his investments so he is on our side in having a speedy delivery of these new units.

[IMNCARN82]

Hmmm  ya still 4500$ +   maybe a t56?  seems the only other route. My stuff is all butchered up anyways. And i'm not runnin t bars.   Once i start the main resto. it's new frame connectors and such. so I'll be cuttn' anyways.   what's the real difference going 5/6 gear wise between the two?    I could swing a passon by the end of summer.  Just hafta eat macaroni and cheese for a few.    what's better?   

My mechanic seems to think it's because the 4 link doesn't allow for proper adjustment. It binds the lower shock when you start to get the angle down. I have it installed correctly, there's only one way it goes together.  I'll snap a pic... he want's to change the way the shock mounts at the bottom. Drill a hole and run a bolt through the aluminum piece. and run the shock 90* to where it is now so it can have range of motion.  Right now it runs on a pin.    Personally I don't think that's it. But an interesting thought.  We are going to get it on the lift and spend some time doing  a series of process of elimination testing. With someone who knows way more than I do.    Play with the rear link settings. Back it up some.  Maybe shorten the driveshaft.

 

[_Russ_]

Why not try the Passon 4 speed OD? You get the OD and fits like a stock 4 speed. When the time comes, you can upgrade to the Passon 5 speed with minimal loss.

[IMNCARN82]

How do u upgrade with minimal loss?

[_Russ_]

I mean to add that you'd be able to sell the OD 4 speed as well to offset some of the cost when the Passon 5 speed arrives.

Minimal loss was in reference to the fact you're considering swapping out the TKO. Any aftermarket or other vehicle gearbox option will mean you have more cutting, custom parts, repositioned parts, a mish-mash of vendors and whatnot - and you could very well be right back here again.

I have no idea what your plans are for the car once you have it sorted and on the road, but I'd keep it simple. Go back to a system that worked. Even if you were able to just borrow the required gearbox & parts off somebody, just to see if that fixes the problem. Might help you pin down exactly what is causing the vibration.

[sadil340]

I've been through the same steps. The latest is I ordered a new flywheel, pilot bearing (not bushing this time) and clutch fork/pivot. I'm hoping the input shaft was vibrating either due to an out of balance or out of true flywheel or some issue with the pilot bearing. Teardown about to start, will let you know the results.

My theory on the input shaft came when I realized that if I got the car up to speed and the vibration was strong, and I pushed in the clutch I could make the vibration stop by revving it in neutral and then putting it back in gear. This gave me the impression that the input shaft could "walk" and when I pushed in the clutch it found its own state of balance. Did you try that?

FWIW I finally got all of the above done - it's a little better but still there 

I'm out of ideas. Everything from the engine to the axle bearings is new except for the axles and they were sent to a machine shop and proven to be true. Anyone want a great deal on a 'Cuda? 

[Chryco Psycho]

trade for a Charger