Lower control arm bushings

[mjb765]

Need to replace 1 lower control arm bushing...Obviously going to do them both. I have a stock front end and only planning a steering box and torsion bar upgrade since the ft end sits kind of low and I want more responsive steeing. Any suggestions on the best bushings and who sells them. Is this job a real pain if I decide to do it myself on the floor or should I just bring it to someone?? I have never had the pleasure of doing lower control arms with the torsion bar setup.

[Bullitt-]

Replacing the bushings must not be to hard as I was able to do it with basic hand tools & a bench vice...Two ways to go, I used the polyurethane from Energy Suspensions. These use the existing metal sleeve from which you must remove the old rubber.. takes some doing, a little penetrating spray seemed to help quite a bit. The other is to go back with OE style rubber, such as Moog sells, & you must cut the old metal sleeve out & press the new in, I've never done this so can't speak to the difficulty.
  Power steering boxes come out easy enough, many here have gone with Firm Feel or Steer & Gear & get their box rebuilt with firmer feel, not more responsive unless you opt for the T/A pitman & idler arm but I've read this is not worth the extra expense .....Most say the firmer the better though......Ultimate solution is a new K-frame with rack & pinion so it $eem$. 
 

[autoxcuda]

If you are going to built car set up for handling, then consider the polys. But if it's a cruiser with 60 series BFG's I don't think you're going to feel much difference of a very thin lower control arm bushing flexing.

What T-bars size are you planning to run?

The responsive steering comes from a number of factors. And it can be done without a new K-frame or rack & pinion. Good Z rated lower profile under 60 series tires, good aggressive alignment, stiffer springs, not sloppy steering U-joint, smaller steering wheel, good shocks are all factors that go into steering response.

[mjb765]

Replacing the bushings must not be to hard as I was able to do it with basic hand tools & a bench vice...Two ways to go, I used the polyurethane from Energy Suspensions. These use the existing metal sleeve from which you must remove the old rubber.. takes some doing, a little penetrating spray seemed to help quite a bit. The other is to go back with OE style rubber, such as Moog sells, & you must cut the old metal sleeve out & press the new in, I've never done this so can't speak to the difficulty.
  Power steering boxes come out easy enough, many here have gone with Firm Feel or Steer & Gear & get their box rebuilt with firmer feel, not more responsive unless you opt for the T/A pitman & idler arm but I've read this is not worth the extra expense .....Most say the firmer the better though......Ultimate solution is a new K-frame with rack & pinion so it $eem$. 
 

Thanks for the replies....the only question was about the bushings...Not really too concerned about the steering box..I was thinking firm feel for that and they are easy enough to replace. It's the bushings that I have never done......

What do you mean cut out the old sleeve. If the bushing has the sleeve already in it, wouldn't you just be pressing the old bushing/sleeve out and pressing the new combo in?? If I go polyurethane after pressing the old setup out, I just need to separate the sleeve from the old bushing and insert it in the new one??

[purple1]

You might want to think about a kit. If you are going that far (lower control arm bushings), get the whole kit and do it all at once. 

[purple1]

What do you mean cut out the old sleeve. If the bushing has the sleeve already in it, wouldn't you just be pressing the old bushing/sleeve out and pressing the new combo in?? If I go polyurethane after pressing the old setup out, I just need to separate the sleeve from the old bushing and insert it in the new one??

The rubber bushings have a outer sleeve that can be a B$@%@ to get out. If you use poly you can and should just leave the outer sleeve in the arm. It was recomended by someone here to use the  rubber lower bushings. All others can be poly. Not sure what the problem was with the poly lowers.

I have done this job, and the tools from American Muscle make it easy. http://www.americanmuscle.biz/

[mjb765]

The rubber bushings have a outer sleeve that can be a B$@%@ to get out. If you use poly you can and should just leave the outer sleeve in the arm. It was recomended by someone here to use the  rubber lower bushings. All others can be poly. Not sure what the problem was with the poly lowers.

I have done this job, and the tools from American Muscle make it easy. http://www.americanmuscle.biz/

So the metal sleeve is outside the bushing..ahh....so if I go poly, then just cut the old bushing out of the sleeve and slide the new one in?

[purple1]

So the metal sleeve is outside the bushing..ahh....so if I go poly, then just cut the old bushing out of the sleeve and slide the new one in?

Yes. But like I said it was recomended not to use the poly lower for some reason.

[Bullitt-]

Yes. But like I said it was recomended not to use the poly lower for some reason.

  Some folks have had problems with poly squeaking after a while...certain gurus here advise that it is only due to not using enough lube...I can't comment yet as mine is not on the road yet.

[mjb765]

Just ordered the Moog bushings...just gonna decide if I feel like doing this myself. Might call my alignment guy and see what he will charge since I need to see him after the install anyway.

[AARCuda340+6]

I've always heard that it's a tough job to replace the bushings.  I decided to get a pro to do mine but still had a minor problem with something he didn't put back right.  This was just 3 weeks ago I had the upper & lower control arm bushings replaced and the front shocks too.  Anyways the job was done ok but decided to just check everything over.  I found out that my front driver side caliper was leaking break fluid and I just had all my breaks replaced last year.  I know it was not leaking before I took the car over to him as I have checked my break fluid 2 times this year and the reservoir was full.  When I checked it after I found the leak it was half full.   I found one of the clips that's suppose to go over the end of spindles was under the spindle and I knew he must have taken the caliper off to do some work.  Had to take the car back and have him repair it.  As you can imagine I was very disappointed but thankfully he was honest to admit he did take the caliper off and then repair it at no additional cost.
Sorry I'm a little off topic on this but just sharing my experience.
Good luck on whatever you decide.

[Roppa440]

The problem some people have had with using a poly lower bushing is that the LCA can move rearwards off the spindle.

I have friends that will not use them because of this. But I have used poly lower bushings for years without any sign of them working backwards.

It may be that some of the poly out there is not as tight a fit in the LCA as it could be? I know mine required a lot of pressure from a press to get them in. Maybe that is why mine have been no problem.

[sadil340]

I used the Moog bushings and had a front-end shop change them out for me. I have about 5,000 miles on them now and they work fine.

[purple1]

Guys, how much is the shop charging you?

For less than 50 bucks get this thing. http://www.americanmuscle.biz/23501_Lower_Control_Arm_Bushing_Sleeve_Remover_ABE_p/23501.htm
This is the key to removing the outer sleeve. A simple press can be used for the rest of the job. I have 2 cars, one is done. I figured it was worth it to just get the right tools.

[mjb765]

Guys, how much is the shop charging you?

For less than 50 bucks get this thing. http://www.americanmuscle.biz/23501_Lower_Control_Arm_Bushing_Sleeve_Remover_ABE_p/23501.htm
This is the key to removing the outer sleeve. A simple press can be used for the rest of the job. I have 2 cars, one is done. I figured it was worth it to just get the right tools.

Curious to find this out....