Rear sway bar question(s).

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I didn't want to hi-jack Brad's thread, but what rear sway bar should I be looking at buying? I see the Hotchkis unit and Addco look similar, but Addco's is half the price. They both look like they want to connect to the frame though, and I see from other threads that isn't such a great idea. So, since I don't see the original factory sway bar for sale on E-Bay, is there another after-market sway bar that will work?

Thanks for any advice.     

[ChallengerHK]

I think the problem with attaching to the frame is that, with four bolts per side, the stress isn't spread out enough. My plan had been (and still is) to weld the sway bar mounts to the frame to counter this. As usual, if anybody reads this and thinks that's a bad idea, jump right in and let me know.

[Moparal]

Mike, I found this one. Seems to have it all for you


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-E-Body-Challenger-T-A-Cuda-AAR-Rear-Sway-Bar-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ380260244507QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-E-Body-Challenger-T-A-Cuda-AAR-Rear-Sway-Bar-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ380260244507QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[brads70]

That one sure is going cheap so far Mike! One thing the Hotchkis rear bar has over the stock on is the weight. Also how it fastens to the frame , meaning stock has link kits like the front sway bar. The Hotchkis has links that will move better I think? Mind you if you get this one at a good price......? As the old saying goes..."going fast costs money, how fast do you want to go?"

With the stock rear bar I have read that if you weld tubes into the rail it will keep it from crushing when you tighten the bolts? Also with the stock bar exhaust clearance might be a issue as well? ( hangs above the rear end)
 I guess you just have to weight out the costs and decide? I'd say if you could get this e-bay one for $200 or less go for it! It looks really clean and all there too!
( brackets etc...)

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I'm sorry to sound stupid guys, but does the original sway bar mount to the frame too?

[dodj]

Yes it does. But rather than the end link attaching to the frame, the sway bar bushing/bracket attaches to the frame and the end link attaches to the plate sandwiched between the axle and springs. Flipped the opposite of aftermarket.

[ChallengerHK]

I'm sorry to sound stupid guys, but does the original sway bar mount to the frame too?

Yeah, the factory bar has a saddle that fits against the frame rail, and then two bolts on each side that go into the rail.

[422STROKER]

I have the addco/hellwig Mike, seems fine for street duty.

Tom

[ChallengerHK]

I think Neil has said that he doesn't like the Addco setup, but I can't remember why.

[burdar]

With the stock rear bar I have read that if you weld tubes into the rail it will keep it from crushing when you tighten the bolts?

There is no way the frame will crush if you use the stock setup.  The factory used 8 self tapping bolts to hold the bushing brackets to the frame.  The only way the frame can crush is if you replace those 8 short bolts with 4 long through bolts and nuts.  If you are going that route then yes, installing tubes in the rails would be a good idea.

[Cuda54]

I have the addco/hellwig or it looks the same. I removed it because when I launched it would slip on the diff. Then it would hold it there and the pinion angle would be off.

[brads70]

Looking at Tom's picture it looks like the brackets on the rear end are flat and not round to fit the tube on the rear end? Looks like  brackets from the front sway bar are used on the back as well? I could see how as Cuda54 said it could move on the diff? The Hotchkis one is notched to fit the tube and could be welded or tached in place if nesessary? Mind you it wouldn't be hard to do the same with the Addco/Hellwig set up too!

[Chryco Psycho]

Firm Feel has an original type rear bar
 the reason I dislike the bars that attach to the diff & link to the frame is I have seen the end links rip out of the frame rails & the extra weight held by the diff hurts handling as it increases unsprung weight . The factory style is the stronger & more efficient design

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Tom,

  Thanks for the picture.   


Thanks guys for talking me thru this. I now understand how each bar is a little different in how it works or fits. 

[autoxcuda]

Firm Feel has an original type rear bar
 the reason I dislike the bars that attach to the diff & link to the frame is I have seen the end links rip out of the frame rails & the extra weight held by the diff hurts handling as it increases unsprung weight . The factory style is the stronger & more efficient design

The amount of unsprung wieght even a solid bar would add is nothing you could actually feel in the handling. Its less then running aluminum rims. Anyone really feel a difference in handling when they swapped to aluminum rims? A lot less than 11x3 drums compared to 10x2 drums. Feel the difference in those? The factory bar adds unsprung weight too; half the arm length, endlinks, and bigger shock plate. I know unsprung weight is bad, but in relative terms to our large mostly street cars, this is a mountain out of a molehill.

The Hotchkis ones have a weld on plate to the body. And the endlinks are a far better design with a dogbone type end link that does not put bind on the sway bar or body bracket. And the big deal, it's adjustable.

I used to run the old fashioned Addco type for about 15 years and 70K miles. No issues. But my frame has no rust whatsoever. Also I was carefull when mounting. The endlink needs to be perpendicular to the frame bracket AND sway bar endlink hole. This will minimize the twisting force the endlink puts on the frame mount. That twisting force will contribute to the frame mount pulling out. To get the endlink perpendicular you need to play with the fore and aft placement of the axle brackets and you might need to change the endlink length. You gotta take some time and put some thought into it.