Suspension rebuild..

[Tonefiend]

I think my next move is going to be rebuilding the suspension.  It is pretty sloppy and klunky, so it is a safety concern more than a need for performance.

I have a 340 going in place of the 318.  So I am thinking of doing it up T/A style.  however, I am interested in rebuilding it economically and not too worried about extreme performace although I would like a firmer ride.   SO I guess any move towards T/A cloning would be good. 

I need a rebuild kit with the ball joints and bushings.  I  also need shocks.  I am also contemplating changing the torsion bars.

So my question is what do I need and who are the preferred guys to get it from here on CC.com?


Secondly I got a saggy rear end.  I'd like a firmer ride and maybe get the rear of the carup in the air a bit more.  What springs and shocks do I need?

[dodj]

I'm not one of the 'prefferred guys' (HP2, Chryco come to mind) on suspension but I'll give you my opinion anyways.

With your ball joints and bushings, using the Moog offset uca bushings would be a good idea.
I have the Edelbrock IAS shocks and like them, $80 each from Mancini's, But there are a lot of choices out there depending on your budget.
If you don't have already, subframe connectors. Doesn't have to be expensive if you build your own.
Higher rate torsion bars (if you have stock now) will improve your handling, as will a set of sway bars.
As for your sagging rear end (talking about the car right?), it looks fine in your signature pics. The rear wheel on a stock Challenger is supposed to be somewhat tucked up into the wheel well. You shouldn't see the top of the tire when you look at it from the side. But if you prefer the raised in the back look, ESPO is used by quite a few people on this board. I use Mopar XHD springs @ stock height, with ESPO you can specify how much over stock you want.

[brads70]

   I bought 1" TB's from Just Suspension awhile back when they were on sale. Build your own subframe connectors, if your able. I did cost me $10 bucks in material! I just bought RCD shocks,sway bars and upper control arms from Hotchkis ( still have to install) I bought rear springs from ESPO plus 1 1/2". I regret that now and wished I had bought the rear springs from Hotchkis. I love the "rake" the car sits at but it doesn't lend itself well to handling. So I'll install what I have and drive it next summer then maybe get the Hotchkis rear springs if I still don't like how it handles. I might also get the fast ratio pitman, and idler arms from firm feel too. Lots of good reports about the RCD shocks so I thought I'd give them a try? If you look on e-bay there are 2 vendors that sell Hotchkis stuff much cheaper than it lists on Hotchkis's web site if your interested? Make sure all the bushings and ball joints etc.. are in top shape first though before you do anything? You might be satisfied with just replacing the worn out stuff and a alignment.  Me I wasn't....my Suburban handles better than the Challenger ...and I just can't have that! But it's expensive, you can drop $2500 on the suspension in a heartbeat!
As the saying goes....going fast costs money, how fast do you want to go?

[Bullitt-]

Your rear looks normal, stock springs look a bit "saggy" so unless you get over stock height it will look the same...Econo-option...add-a-leaf, read here..http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44537.0

[Chryco Psycho]

I recommend Moog for all the ball joints & tie rod ends & idler arm
 I would install the Energy suspension bushings it is a reasonably priced kit & comes with everything needed .
the other Option is PST , you can buy a complete kit through them with larger T bars as well
I would go to the C body tie rod ends & sleeves or billet sleeves they are substantially heavier
 Espo or Eaton would be the choice for rear springs although the car will handle best with a flat spring
QA1 or Edelbrock IAS for shocks

[dodj]

I bought rear springs from ESPO plus 1 1/2".

If tonefiend prefers the rear up high look, maybe a deal could be made?

[Tonefiend]

Thanks guys.  I will look into your suggestions.   I do prefer the rear end up a bit.   One thing not noticable in the pics is my passenger side rear end is noticably lower than the other side.  It's about an inch.   Could it be the shocks?   I really do not want to replace the leafs inthe back, I just want to even it out and get rid of the sag on that side and if the rear end was an inch higher that would be a bonus.

[Bullitt-]

Shocks don't hold up the car, springs do, check the drivers side front, you may find it a smidgen higher, lowering it will raise the passenger rear.

[brads70]

Here are a couple of pictures what the ESPO plus 1 1/2" looks like. I was going for a 70's style thing, but I changed my mind and want handling now? You should decide what's most important to you before you buy any parts? Kind of a" learn from my screw up" sort of a thing?

[brads70]

If tonefiend prefers the rear up high look, maybe a deal could be made?

Hummm Ya but shipping would be the deal killer! I'm in Canada about 120 miles north of Buffalo NY and he is in San Diego CA

[autoxcuda]

-Moog upper ball joints, moog lower ball joints, moog rubber lower control arm bushings, moog tie rods, moog idler arm, moog pitman arm, moog 7103 offset upper ball joints bushing installed per picture below. All from www.rockauto.com

-Hotchkis Bilstien shocks

-1" front torsion bars. There's places with deals on these. I say before sway bars in your case because you are taking the suspension apart anyway. If you add them later you have to take it all apart again and then re-align it too. If you have money left, then get sway bars.

-poly sway bar bushings, poly strut rod bushings.

-Performance handling alignment: 1/16" toe in, 0.75 degrees negative camber, 4.0 degrees postive caster.

[Chryco Psycho]

if one of the rear corners is low the opposite front T bar is too tight , just loosen off the T bar adjuster & the back will level out

[Tonefiend]

I never would have thought!  I'll take a look a the T bar, adjust the opposite side and see if that does not take care of the sag. 

Thanks AutoXcuda.  That looks like a great plan of action.  I'll look into those parts from Rock Auto.  I have dealt with them in the past and they were great. 

[Cuda54]

Back when in mid 70s we used to cut the top spring under the eye and just add the main leaf. Back then parts were easy to find and it would bring it up and still ride nice. On my first Cuda a 70 AAR it had air shocks to hold it up over N50s. And I broke the top shock mount out of the car. After like a fool I sold it because of my wife. My next Cuda had the mains added and did not need the air shocks road so much better too.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Get your moog part numbers that you need, punch them into amazon.com....you may be surprised they are cheaper, no tax, and free shipping on some of them!