Has anyone seen these LED tailights in person? 1970 Challenger

[brads70]

I wish all I had to do was lenghten a few wires!

[mjb765]

I've been subscribed to this thread since it started and have been completely let down. Theres no way I'm going to grind, cut, & modify a brand new part and HOPE it works. It wouldn't be so bad if it were significantly cheaper......but to me it is priced as a 'plug-n-play' part, so you shouldnt have to deal with all these issues.

Russ, I wish you luck and thank you for the feedback - hopefully the bad publicity gets these issues resolved.

I was thinking the same thing...all the while hoping they made them to fit 71's, but after seeing all of this trouble for the price.......kind of let down.

[_Russ_]

OK ... good news/bad news time.

Good news: managed to fit the plug and twist it into the socket. Just had to bend back the prongs on the socket that secure it in the housing, so I could get my fat fingers in to get enough pressure to twist the 1157 plug in without ripping the wiring out. Did this first so I could see how they worked before I started grinding/modifying anything ... just in case ... and I'm glad I did, because ...

Bad news: They don't work. At all. No brake light. No running light. No indicator. No hazzard light. Nothing. I've replaced both relays with no-load Electronic Flashers. Every other light works perfectly with no hint of trouble. The LED board just doesn't work.

So that was a perfectly great waste of time & money.

 



Maybe Tony (bigblue73) who created the perfectly built multi-functioning front running/indicator LED setup can see this as a sign to get cracking on a sensibly thought out & quality built e-body rear tail-light system 

[brads70]

OK ... good news/bad news time.

Good news: managed to fit the plug and twist it into the socket. Just had to bend back the prongs on the socket that secure it in the housing, so I could get my fat fingers in to get enough pressure to twist the 1157 plug in without ripping the wiring out. Did this first so I could see how they worked before I started grinding/modifying anything ... just in case ... and I'm glad I did, because ...

Bad news: They don't work. At all. No brake light. No running light. No indicator. No hazzard light. Nothing. I've replaced both relays with no-load Electronic Flashers. Every other light works perfectly with no hint of trouble. The LED board just doesn't work.

So that was a perfectly great waste of time & money.

 



Maybe Tony (bigblue73) who created the perfectly built multi-functioning front running/indicator LED setup can see this as a sign to get cracking on a sensibly thought out & quality built e-body rear tail-light system 

You have got to be kidding! WOW ...OK now I'm wishing I never layed eyes on these things!

[_Russ_]

What a dickhead! (directed at self)

 

Sorry folks. They work perfectly. Because I was trying them uninstalled, I was forgetting the ground. The plug/socket was sitting on the trunk mat instead of inserted into the taillight housing, where it would be if installed - therefore, no ground connection.

There's a reason I get other people to do my electrical work - 'cuz I'm an idiot!

Now that that is sorted, I should have them installed by/on the weekend.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

     

[bigblue73]

What a dickhead! (directed at self)

 

Sorry folks. They work perfectly. Because I was trying them uninstalled, I was forgetting the ground. The plug/socket was sitting on the trunk mat instead of inserted into the taillight housing, where it would be if installed - therefore, no ground connection.

There's a reason I get other people to do my electrical work - 'cuz I'm an idiot!

Now that that is sorted, I should have them installed by/on the weekend.

I was just about to write about the ground when I saw your reply.  I did the same on my set!  Cheers!

[_Russ_]

Done & Done! 

They're in, look great, and work perfectly!

As with Brads install, I had to get a thinner backing plate - but I didn't need to grind anything on the back of the housing. Found this stuff at the local hardware. Not sure what you call it, but it's about 1mm thick, and works a treat.




The other thing is, I had to lengthen the wiring on the LED board to ensure it exited the light housing, making it long enough to get my fingers on it to twist into the standard socket.




I've got some before & after video, so I'll post it up later after I do a bit of editing etc.

Thanks for all the tips people - hope I didn't annoy you all too much!   

[bigblue73]

So you guys have to add an isolation item between the house and the back of the board.  Interesting.  I did not have to do that on my '73.  Nice work Russ! 

[brads70]

So you guys have to add an isolation item between the house and the back of the board.  Interesting.  I did not have to do that on my '73.  Nice work Russ! 

Hey how are you at designing a control board for sequential taillights that actually work? 
 

[_Russ_]

So you guys have to add an isolation item between the house and the back of the board.  Interesting.  I did not have to do that on my '73.  Nice work Russ! 

Yep. There's a note on the installation instructions saying "don't let the LED board touch metal, or it will fry" or something to that effect.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Well Brad, it's up to you now to get yours working.   


   No pressure from me.   

[brads70]

Well Brad, it's up to you now to get yours working.   


   No pressure from me.   

I'm almost at the point of ripping them out and sending them back! 
I felt bad about his heart attack and told him to take his time sending me yet another controller. ( 2 bad ones so far) Also I figured if I gave him some time he would use that time to "get the issue sorted out" I told him the car is not on the road till spring so as long as it's all fixed before it comes out of hibernation I'm OK with that? ........Maybe I shouldn't have been quite so "nice" ?

[bigblue73]

Brad can post a photo of the controller?  I may have another source for this component.

[ShelbyDogg]

I see the sequential flashing on mustangs, so the controller can't be that expensive if those guys have them.  It should be a simple timer/SCR circuit for anyone into electronics.  I just don't have the time anymore.