Author Topic: Fixing An Intake Vaccum Leak?  (Read 767 times)

Offline AMXguy

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Fixing An Intake Vaccum Leak?
« on: September 24, 2010 - 01:57:40 PM »
OK my problem was a vacuum leak, if I shoot starting fluid under the right side of the intake the engine speeds up and smooths out. this probably explains the white plugs there as well.

 So I have one fiber gasket on top of the valley pan, removing fiber that is going to change things I'm not sure for the better or worse,the leak is on the bottom and it's sucking air not oil and since the starting fluid worked I have to think it's from above the pan. should I pull the vally pan as well anyway or just work on top of it? what is the best sealer to use?
1970 R/T SE Challenger
 1970 Superbee
 1969 S code Mach 1
 1967  GTO




Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Fixing An Intake Vaccum Leak?
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2010 - 05:15:50 PM »
I used Gaskasinch on both sides of my valley pan and didn't have any problems. I have to ask if this intake has worked before or maybe it wasn't machined properly on the one side if it is new?

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline AMXguy

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Re: Fixing An Intake Vaccum Leak?
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2010 - 06:00:36 PM »
No it's a brand new edelbrock repop.

 My heads were milled and block decked but I used Cometic gaskets to bring it all back to OEM specs.

 I pulled it apart and the compression tracks looked pretty good, no obvious gaps, but the metal pan was not compressed at all, it looks new. so I'm guessing the fiber gasket kept everything from smashing into place.
1970 R/T SE Challenger
 1970 Superbee
 1969 S code Mach 1
 1967  GTO

Offline moper

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Re: Fixing An Intake Vaccum Leak?
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2010 - 07:35:16 PM »
I never use the fiber gaskets. I do use a thin bit of ultra grey RTV around the ports and along the valler rails. I haven't had any leaks doing it this way. I'd make sure the intake does fit properly... With no valley pan in place, the holes in the heads should be totally visible and just above centered in the intake holes. Also flash a light from behind the intake and sight along the intake mating surfaces of the heads. If there is light visible along the top or bottom, something wasnt milled right. If it all looks good, install it and torque  from the center out in small steps.