Author Topic: Six Pack Idle Set  (Read 828 times)

Offline AMXguy

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Six Pack Idle Set
« on: September 25, 2010 - 04:45:53 PM »
I just keep chasing problems in this new motor.

 Now I have the vac leak stopped ( I think ) but I CANNOT get it to idle at 800-900 RPM. I can get 1100 or 500 but in between it just pukes no matter how I adjust things. 

I tried tying the outboards closed until I got the center carb adjusted and that doesn't seem to work, so I tried covering the outboard air horns with duct tape until I could get the center carb adjusted and that flooded the engine in 2 seconds. so it seems all 3 must be adjusted as a unit but I can't get it to idle in the proper range to have a starting point to work from.

 Is there a method to get started ? could there be something screwed up in my center carb even though they're all new? if so what do I look for?
1970 R/T SE Challenger
 1970 Superbee
 1969 S code Mach 1
 1967  GTO




Offline gkring

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Re: Six Pack Idle Set
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2010 - 09:12:13 PM »
Make sure all three float levels are set. Outboard carbs need to be shut, but they do have idle circuits so blocking off the air makes them dump fuel only. Other than that concentrate on the center carb only. where is the base timing at on the motor?
Greg
1970 Challenger convertible-in process
1970 Barracuda driver

Offline AMXguy

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Re: Six Pack Idle Set
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2010 - 01:19:13 AM »
After screwing around with it all afternoon until my fingers are bleeding I think I'm tracking it down. if you let it cool down for a half hour it runs PERFECT for a few munites at any RPM you want even idle. then at idle it starts slowing down and dies. I tested the voiltage on the ballast resistor and after it gets hot it drops to 4 volts and then the engine dies when it drops to 2V.

 Funny thing is as long as you keep it reved up it runs on low voltage, but at idle it can't. this I don't understand. this is all brand new Mopar electronic stuff but that doesn't mean its working properly. something is being effected by heat or run time, I'll try the resistor because the ECU and dizzy swap did nothing. god I hate this kind of problem .
1970 R/T SE Challenger
 1970 Superbee
 1969 S code Mach 1
 1967  GTO

Offline nqkjw

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Re: Six Pack Idle Set
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2010 - 11:05:16 AM »
Do away with the ballast/chrysler ECU and convert to HEI.
Much better system,cheaper,less troublesome and super easy to set up.
The module part number is a Bosch BIM024 or equivalent.
Ballast resistor must be deleted and the wires joined for it to work.

« Last Edit: September 27, 2010 - 11:06:51 AM by nqkjw »
Burnouts are cool but Traction is the Action

Offline tommyg29

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Re: Six Pack Idle Set
« Reply #4 on: September 29, 2010 - 03:06:47 PM »
Ive got idle issues with my 6pak also, but I'm pretty sure its the idle orifices in the center carb. They seem to be plugged.
But your ecu diagram makes me laugh....its SOOOOOO simple compared to the ecu's from cars built in the late 80's and 90's, which were simple computers, and forget about modern ecu's. The wiring diagram would fill an airplane hanger wall!
Ohhh, the good old days. Makes you wonder how an ebody electrical issue could possibly stump anyone.  :clueless:
But they sure do!! :bigsmile:
Cant tell you how many times Ive shaken a fist over or banged my head (under the dash) over electric gremlins.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2010 - 03:11:36 PM by tommyg29 »
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