Inductive/clip on ammeter

[duodec]

I really prefer the idea of keeping an ammeter in my car instead of changing to a voltmeter (I may put in a separate voltmeter if I do any additional gauges).  There are inductive/clip-on meters that do not require insertion into the circuit (even a shunt-type requires that inline presence).  Such things are made, even for automotive use, but so far I have not been able to find a U.S. source, only UK, so it gets a bit pricey.

What I'm thinking of is taking the factory ammeter, gutting it, and replacing those guts with those from an inductive unit.  Then the big wire would just run up to the ammeter, through a clip, and back down; no connections, no fragile meter throttling power (or overheating).

Found this one on ebay... 75 amp range which will be good to go for me (not putting in a hyper-power stereo or huge alternator).  So far I haven't found a domestic supplier (only one place listed the 30 amp units and they were out of stock with no schedule on resupply).

Depending on how big all the working parts are, this might be just the thing to keep an ammeter safely.

If anyone knows of a source for this gauge (or equivalent) I'd really appreciate hearing about it.

[dodj]

I know quality DC clip on meters are pricey. (The one I have @ work cost $1200) I don't know if a $20 inductive meter will be trustworthy.

[brads70]

 

[Moparal]

MMM I don't know Duodec,  If it was me, I would just spend the 99 bucks plus shipping for a new rebuilt factory guage. They last a very long time and when you get them tight on the eyelets, the dont really heat up as much as you would think.  And a volt meter can be run seperate as it is anyways.  Are you needing more than 60 amps for like a big stereo booster or something?

[1970 RT Challenger 1970]

For 20 GBP, it's worth a try.

[duodec]

Thanks all for responding.  My ammeter is original, and I'm familiar with the bulkhead connector issues, but thanks for bringing it up for those who read this thread.  My car has had a straight-through connection (bypassing the bulkhead connector, not a drill-through) for many years.

I'm sticking with a ~60 amp alternator, using headlight relays, upgrading wire size where appropriate, and not looking at any heavy power use items other than the headlights and auxiliary lighting (TBD); the sound system will not be a power problem.

So many people seem to be rushing to replace their ammeters with voltmeters that the option of using an ammeter that doesn't introduce two more physical connections into the main 'power bus' (even if they are not the 'critical' one from the bulkhead) plus it handles higher amperage (75 vs. ~60)... and if equivalent units with higher ratings can be found and transplanted into the Mopar gauge body that would allow keeping an ammeter even with a much higher power draw setup...

[Giveitawack]

I installed new wiring from M&H, bulkhead connector, fusebox etc. A new ampmeter from OER. I wanted to avoid molten plastic in the firewall connection.
I have run a wire from the alternator to the + terminal on the starter relay. Thick wire and a fuse for a lot of amps that the car stereo guys use.
The majority of the amps now travel through the extra wire. The amp meter moves a little.
I have run this the whole summer and it has worked fine.