Young and in Love

[dodj]

MMM..Shiney, shiney red! Nice 
Welcome to the best ebody site on the net.

[FinallyRearDrive]

I just finished the timing and I couldn't be much happier with the results. She runs and sounds great (except for the horrendous header leak), and I can't thank you guys enough for your help and support. There is just one more issue I need to deal with: when I idle through a tight u-turn she dies. Is this something I did wrong when I rebuilt the carb, or is it still further tinkering with the timing, or something I can't even think of? Thanks again, everyone.

p.s. She's a 383 4-barrel with B&M slap-stick (though I'm dying to convert her to 4-speed), hot cam, Mopar electronic ignition, Edelbrock 750 carb and torker II intake manifold. I have Hooker comp. headers on the way, and am currently working something out with Borla for the rest of the exhaust.

[JoltinJoe]

There is just one more issue I need to deal with: when I idle through a tight u-turn she dies. Is this something I did wrong when I rebuilt the carb, or is it still further tinkering with the timing, or something I can't even think of? Thanks again, everyone.

Seems like a vacuum issue.  You will have to hear from the experts though.

[mopar12372]

what would you call a hot cam ? if its big then you have to set the idle higher.

[FinallyRearDrive]

what would you call a hot cam ? if its big then you have to set the idle higher.

Oh really? The guy I bought it from was not the one who put it in, so he couldn't tell me what kind of cam it was. If that's the case, then maybe I should raise the idle, but it idle's fine standing still or rolling to a stop. So why does it matter if it's stationary, rolling, or doing a u-turn? Shouldn't idle be constant regardless?

[Chryco Psycho]

in a tight U turn you have the load of the power steering on the engine as well which is not there going straight

[FinallyRearDrive]

in a tight U turn you have the load of the power steering on the engine as well which is not there going straight

Oh! That makes sense. So I should just turn my idle up a bit, then?

[Chryco Psycho]

try it , you should be around 850 RPM

[Aussie Challenger]

Another thing if the float level is a bit low the fuel could rush into the fuel bowl and create a richer mixture temporarily.    

[FinallyRearDrive]

Done! She still needs her headers, but those are coming. For now though, she's never ran better! Thank you so much, guys.

[The Cuda Guy]

I had a bad a$$ header leak that would have to fix about every other month, the way I fixed it was to buy the copper header gaskets and put black RTV around the openings that connect to the headers, then tightend them to spec with new bolts.  I havent had any issues since.  Just thought Id throw that out there.  Good luck bro!

Don

[Chryco Psycho]

you may want to reconsider the headers , the stock manifolds are decent & will not burn the wires, I would only consider them for racing .
 If you go to headers Buy either TTi or Dougs , they both fit well & allow acces tot he plugs , saving a few $$ on cheaper headers will not make you happy or save you $$ ultimatly , I have worked on a few cars when 1-2 wires would have no choice but to sit against the tube & burn evry 100 miles or so .

[Aussie Challenger]

you may want to reconsider the headers , the stock manifolds are decent & will not burn the wires, I would only consider them for racing .
 If you go to headers Buy either TTi or Dougs , they both fit well & allow acces tot he plugs , saving a few $$ on cheaper headers will not make you happy or save you $$ ultimatly , I have worked on a few cars when 1-2 wires would have no choice but to sit against the tube & burn evry 100 miles or so .

Not to mention every match box or speed hump will scrape most cheaper headers.

[mopar12372]

  glad you got the timming issue takencare of!

[FinallyRearDrive]

Alright. I do need new headers because the guy who owned my car before me put some REALLY cheap ones on and I've never seen flanges so warped. If you all say I should rethink what headers I get, then I guess I got some more shopping to do. Is fitment on the plugs the only thing I need to be concerned with?

On a related topic: I was thinking. Would I be able to hear engine ping with a bad header leak? I thought I'd be able to hear it, but that header is pretty damn loud. I feel like I have advanced the timing a LOT (previous owner painted the engine, including the harm. balancer, so even if I had a light, I couldn't see how much timing I have). I ended up turning the dist. a little more than 1/8 of a turn, and it still backfired out the carb late last night. Granted it only did it once all day, as opposed to every time I took off from a light and when it starts, so it's getting much better. I'm pretty sure it has a vac. leak, too. It idles really high in park, and really low in gear. And when I shift it into drive or reverse from park it lurches (sometimes chirp the tires). I'm afraid that I'm doing some kind of damage to my engine my advancing the timing more, but that backfire yesterday made me think that's what it needs. Any thoughts on anything?