Found or created a new problem......

[4x4HEMIrig]

So, I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses along with the thermostat. I put in a 165 degree thermostat and now, after about 20 minutes of idling, I can hear the coolant boiling and see steam coming from the overflow drain tube and around the new upper hose at the radiator.

Can you guys think of any reason the car might overheat with these new changes?

-AA

By the way; the car is not currently drivable due to bad suspension components. I have the new parts and I am currently scheduled to have a friend's students at the local high school install them in march.

[hooD]

did ya put the stat in backwards?  the spring should go to engine block.

[Chryco Psycho]

the 165* stat will not close & allow time for the air to cool , it is always harder to keep the engine cool if you are not moving .
 try a 180* stat

[dodj]

Due to a couple times a new t-stat not working properly, when I pick up a new t-stat, i put it in a pot on the stove and bring it to a boil. Just to make sure it opens.

[4Cruizn]

Do you have a spring in the bottom hose?   

[aris_unlimited]

the 165* stat will not close & allow time for the air to cool , it is always harder to keep the engine cool if you are not moving .
 try a 180* stat

I agree, I'd put in a higher thermostat. The general rule of thumb with most cars is to get it get close to 200 degrees before the thermostat/fans kick in. I think 165 might just be a little to low.

[Strawdawg]

I don't think the temperature of the thermostat has anything to do with it at all. 

Sounds like the thermostat is either upside down, or was defective to me.

[4x4HEMIrig]

I know the t-stat is in the right way. It would only seat one way and I looked at the old one before I pulled it out. Both hoses have springs in them.

My EGTs hover right around 400 degrees and the block temp is usually around 280 to 315. I'm running the factory fan.

Since it was sitting in the garage and it was about 75 outside that day, I know that had a lot to do with it.

I'm leaning towards either defective unit or  too low of a temp for the stat.

[Strawdawg]

I don't believe in the too low a temperature idea...did you check to make sure all the air was pushed out?

Also, the upper hose should get hot and firm as soon as the stat opens

[4x4HEMIrig]

Upper hose has a spring in it, can't check that. What's another way to make sure all the air is out? It only took 2.5 gallons in the factory radiator.

[Strawdawg]

spring in the upper hose?  Hopefully, the lower has one as well as it is the one that can get sucked shut...the upper has pressure on it so it cannot.

You should be able to hold the upper hose and see if water begins to circulate shortly after it reaches the stat temp.  Hose will suddenly increase in temp. An infrared temp gun will also show the jump


As far as the air, run it a couple of times, let it cool and see if it is full...or nearly full...when you remove the cap.  usually, opening the heater and letting water circulate thru it will help push trapped air out, I have found.

[4x4HEMIrig]

What about the leak? The only thing I can think of is that I didn't get the lower hose tight enough. It's not leaking from the bottom of the radiator.

[Strawdawg]

You have to look at see where it drips from....try tightening the clamp if it looks like it is coming from the hose end

[mopar12372]

if you dont get ALL the air out of the system the car will run hot and suck the lower and upper hoses shut . make sure you have at least a 180 t stat and a new radiator cab . you should be fine.

[Chryco Psycho]

an empty system should be able to hold 3.5 or more gallons