stroker motor? yay or nay?

[djwhog]

Yes easy build to get those #s. HP& TQ:) I have a 340 stroker 416 that does more than that, but it AINT no 20 mpg engine. Is way to stout.

The thing to understand too, it a long stroke means faster and longer piston travel and speeds, ths more and sooner ring wear too. Also rod bearings get more pressure on them as well.

You will want a 400 or 440 with a stroker, a decent size cam, small overlap and low on duration with fairly decent lift though. I would go with a comp cam roller, most likely on the .550-.590 lift range. This big engine is going to need a lot of air.

You could even setup a larger 800 cfm Thermo quad jet it correctly on a 2 plane intake, run a mopar electronic dist with vac advance, over drive yes and a 3.23 or 2.94 gear is enough with the torque.

2000-2300 medium loose convertor.

Decent set of even iron heads, with at least port matching, 5 angle valve job, 10-10.5 compression with the big cam.

Or run an air gap with an 800 AVS and tune it.

Dont get to crazy on the extra large primaries, stay like 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 into a 4" collector.

Again to copy what was said, on a stroker it is a coffee can size piston moving 4"+ and will suck the hell out of the intake and carb on the intake stroke, same applies for exh side and wasted a/f etc.

So you need to have it geared for no more than say 16-1800 rpms in high aka over drive at 65 mph .... it should work and not bog. Call comp cams and talk to them, they can do a custome profile and give you some tips etc.


I have a late model SRT with a 6 speed, gets 28 on the hwy, has 6 gears, 5th and 6th are over drive and even with 3.92s, with the huge 20" rims it is turning only aboyr 1300 rpms at 75 in 6th and 2000 at 75 in 5th.

When you have enough TQ it will pur and idle down the highway.

But if you even think about putting your foot in it, 11mpg would be good.

PS my Dart with the stroker 416 maybe gets 8 mpg hwy and about 6 in town if it is lucky:)
My car is not a dailey driver and I run 3.91s on a 26"tire with a special low 1st in the 727 so it is like pulling with a 4.56 and I run 4500 stall.

[mojavered]

with the right parts picked out as a package I bet you would increase both efficiency & milage , we did a 512 " with an OD 833 & it has been averaging 18 MPG [can gallon] on the highway

What does a Can Gallon convert to in US gallons?

[Moparal]

I think it's like 3.78 quarts

[mopar12372]

4 quarts in a gallon of liquid/ a 440 will do just fine 

[1970 RT Challenger 1970]

What does a Can Gallon convert to in US gallons?

4.5 liters = 1 Imperial Gallon = 160 ounces

1 US Gallon = 4/5 Imperial Gallon or 0.8 or 80% = 128 ounces

[nqkjw]

4.5 liters = 1 Imperial Gallon = 160 ounces

1 US Gallon = 4/5 Imperial Gallon or 0.8 or 80% = 128 ounces

May or may not help since we work in litres over here and we need to convert US gallons quite often.
Anyway,as stated above
1 imperial gallon = 4.5 litres
1 US gallon = 3.8 litres

I assume the can gallon mentioned is a US gallon?

[1970 RT Challenger 1970]

May or may not help since we work in litres over here and we need to convert US gallons quite often.
Anyway,as stated above
1 imperial gallon = 4.5 litres
1 US gallon = 3.8 litres

I assume the can gallon mentioned is a US gallon?

I think Can is "Canadian", referring to Canadian Gallon but meaning Imperial Gallon, but there are only 2 types of Gallons, US and Imperial.

[TreeFrog]

There's no Replacement for Displacement!

no doubt,

"I" would not... but then again maybe... well, maybe next year I would.

[mojavered]

I think Can is "Canadian", referring to Canadian Gallon but meaning Imperial Gallon, but there are only 2 types of Gallons, US and Imperial.

That is what I was thinking and that would equate to about 21.6 US Gallons.

[Strawdawg]

So, when the factory strokes an engine to obtain a larger displacement, it is good, but, when we do it, it is bad?


I think bad boys have more fun!

[TreeFrog]

So, when the factory strokes an engine to obtain a larger displacement, it is good, but, when we do it, it is bad?


I think bad boys have more fun!

Yes ... and I am upgrading from a 318 to a 360 so I am just as bad...ask the environmentalists...

I should paint it green, so I can tell them I have a new "Green Engine"

[Strawdawg]

LOL

Make that the "New Green" engine...

[HP2]

Lets see if I've got the goals right;

500 hp
550 torque
20 mpg
100k miles of longevity

All that is simple enough, but what about the intended usage? All street, street/strip, track only car. What drove the goals, specific performance targets or something else? Is budget a consideration? Is this all new parts or are some rebuilt pieces finding their way in to this? If you have 500 horses on tap, will you really keep it under 5000 rpm?

My perception of this all is that your building a street car that you intended to use a lot. If that is the case, I'd be an advocate of building as much torque as low as possible and not worry about horsepower.

A few rambling points to ponder; if you drive 60 miles a day, it will take 4.5 years to accumulate 100k in miles. If you drive half of that amount, it will take twice as long. Do you think you motor combination will remain unchanged for 5-9 years? IF you get 20 mpg, @ 3.00 a gallon, that is $15,000 in fuel cost over that 4.5 years. The torque peak is also the volumetric efficiency point. Just because you spin you motor slower, doesn't mean it will necessarily get better mileage, although it will certainly help engine life. Feeding 490+ cubic inches will require everything else be stepped up accordingly to help in breathing. This includes bigger cams which will decimate any mileage potential. H

[aris_unlimited]

Yes you have my goals correct. Although considering my build options I am seriously thinking about putting in a fuel injection setup to help with the mileage/efficiency/dependability of the vehicle. After all going from a complete build with a carb and just changing the necessary parts out for injection the price isn't a huge difference (about $800 from what I have found).

Price isn't a huge deal for me, but it is a consideration. I am thinking about $6k for the motor maybe a little more. I am certainly not willing to spend $10k or more just on the motor.

The car will be mainly a street car. I doubt it would see the track more than 5 times in 20 years. I am just not much of a track guy, although I would have enough interest in it just to know what my car could run. As for this car getting a lot of use, it will. But it will also be stored for the winter months, and most travel that I do around here is relatively close. With my average cars the most I have managed a year is about 10k miles. And that is with them being my only means of transportation. Now I also have a magnum which will be used probably about 50% of the time. The rest of the time will be split up between my motorcycle and the 'cuda depending on what I feel like driving. Over all the cuda will be pampered and not driven tons. But I am using the 100k mile reliability as a goal. So that once finished with my project I won't have to do anything to it but routine maintenance for quite a while.

Don't know if I made my goals easier to understand or harder lol. But hopefully this sheds some light on the subject.

[TreeFrog]