Author Topic: Custom Electrical schematic needed?  (Read 6513 times)

Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #15 on: October 21, 2010 - 09:04:09 PM »
Works in my head too. Just nitpicking, but I'd rather switch power than ground for the left-most relay, but it'll work fine either way. I'd put the defrost sw. between 30 and 86 and tie 85 to gnd. :2cents:

I've never paid much attention to 85 getting power or 86 getting power and haven't had issues. I prefer to just ground switch stuff since you already have power at the relay and you don't have to chase power to the switch and fuse that too. Rather dash frame grounds are anywhere you want. Just one less power wire running in the dash.

Either way!  :cheers:
Build Page: Goody's 'Cuda Build Page
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1972 Barracuda - 5.7 Hemi + T56 Magnum

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Offline brads70

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #16 on: October 25, 2010 - 02:59:36 PM »
Ok what setting do I select to check the resistance of the bulbs? :newbie: :bigsmile:
Hope this meter is good enough?


Ok while on the 200 reading I got .7 as the highest reading( yellow bulbs 1.2) that's subtracting the reading while touching the leads together(.5).
So how do I from that tell what size fuses,wire gauge , and relay size do I need?
I'm learning something here! :clapping: :2thumbs:



So from this how do I figure out what size fuses and wire gauge do I need?
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline dodj

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2010 - 03:19:14 PM »
The resistance reading was for determining which bulb is the high beam (the 0.7ohm bulb) and which is the low beam (1.2 ohm). For wire size, 14ga for the low cct and 12ga for the high cct. should do. For fusing, 20 amp ought to do it but check the specs of the bulbs on the pkg. :2cents:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline brads70

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #18 on: October 25, 2010 - 05:20:05 PM »
The resistance reading was for determining which bulb is the high beam (the 0.7ohm bulb) and which is the low beam (1.2 ohm). For wire size, 14ga for the low cct and 12ga for the high cct. should do. For fusing, 20 amp ought to do it but check the specs of the bulbs on the pkg. :2cents:

Thanks! :2thumbs:  ....Like I said I'm electrically dumb! :grinyes:
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2010 - 08:45:31 PM »
I would run a separate circuit breaker to the high beam relay and the low beam relay. That way, you wont lose all your headlights at once, then crash.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline brads70

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #20 on: May 27, 2011 - 09:33:02 PM »
Use the lowest setting you have. In your case, 200. 3 more clicks counter-clockwise. :2thumbs:


Ok guys I'm finally getting around to wiring this up and I have a few questions...
First when I test resistance to find the high and low beams lug on the bulb, I used the center lug for ground
( correct?) with my meter on the 200 as dodj said to use I get .7 and .8 so the  .8 is the low beam correct?
When I touch the leads together I get .5 Did I do this right?
 Next question....
Goody, you said to use 12 gauge wire? The relays use 14 gauge and the new headlight sockets are even smaller, should I still use 12 gauge? Newbie here but it seems redundant if what I'm connecting the 12 gauge to is smaller? :dunno:
Here is the defroster switch Slotts set me up with, it has 3 prongs , the socket has a white, black and green wire. Do I assume the green is a ground? which other wire do I connect to ( defroster switch) white or black? :dunno:



next question...
 the symbol to the left of the defrost switch in your drawing , that's ground right? Meaning  like a wire with an eyelet screwed to the sheetmetal ( body) right?
last question....
 in the relay beside the defroster switch 86 just gets connected to 30 correct?
Sorry for the questions but like I said I'm a newbie with wiring.  :grinyes:

Thanks for putting up with me guys!  :bigsmile:
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #21 on: May 28, 2011 - 09:42:22 AM »

First when I test resistance to find the high and low beams lug on the bulb, I used the center lug for ground
( correct?) 

 Next question....
Goody, you said to use 12 gauge wire? The relays use 14 gauge and the new headlight sockets are even smaller, should I still use 12 gauge? Newbie here but it seems redundant if what I'm connecting the 12 gauge to is smaller?

Here is the defroster switch Slotts set me up with, it has 3 prongs , the socket has a white, black and green wire. Do I assume the green is a ground? which other wire do I connect to ( defroster switch) white or black?:

next question...
 the symbol to the left of the defrost switch in your drawing , that's ground right? Meaning  like a wire with an eyelet screwed to the sheetmetal ( body) right?


last question....
 in the relay beside the defroster switch 86 just gets connected to 30 correct?



1.High beams use the outside connectors, low beams use one outside connector and the center connector. Look at an old headlight harness and use the black wire to match up your ground connnector. You seem to have trouble reading the meter so go right to a battery and hook the bulb to a 12v source and light it up with test wires. Test it all on the bench just for ease, before doing it on the car.

2.Run your 12ga all the way to the sockets and relays, then splice it in as close as possible. I usually crimp on new terminals, but you'll be okay splicing them in if your sockets came wired.

3. Defroster switch (SPDT-look it up):  Usually the center wire is switched between the 2 outside wires. When the switch is up, the 2 bottom connectors are connected, when down, the two top are connected.  USE A BATTERY AND TEST LIGHT.  Your meter doesn't seem to have a continuity (BEEP) setting. Use either center or bottom wire for ground and the other to the relay, it doesn't matter.

4, Symbol to the left of the relay is a standard ground symbol, They all get hooked to an eyelet then metal or all hooked together then to the negative battery post.

5, 86 connects to 30.  I always supply ground from the switch to turn on the relays too. It keeps another hotwire from going through the firewall. Electrons flow from negative to positive anyway. All my fuses stay next to the relays.


LASTLY,  AlwaysvUse circuit breakers instead of fuses to power your headlight relays. They plug in like a fuse.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2011 - 09:45:51 AM by ShelbyDogg »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline brads70

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #22 on: May 28, 2011 - 01:26:39 PM »
Thanks! That helps  :2thumbs:
 I'm wanting to leave the stock headlight harness as stock as possible so I can quickly go back if I don't like this new look.
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Custom Electrical schematic needed?
« Reply #23 on: May 28, 2011 - 04:42:34 PM »
Thanks! That helps  :2thumbs:
 I'm wanting to leave the stock headlight harness as stock as possible so I can quickly go back if I don't like this new look.

I used my stock harness to drive my h4 headlights, I just tapped into the harness by the battery to add the relays.  You just need to add a couple of wires to run your low yellow beams.     As far as H4 hight beams, I crammed my socket on the H4s upside down so the center connector isn't even hooked up. 
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0