Can the coil overheat

[XBRIT]

I have had a stalling problem since a full restoration on my 383 Challenger and have assumed it to fuel.  I have replaced all of the fuel side and both of the ignition modules. The coil is also new, but as the idle/stall issue is only when at full operating temperature. I have noticed that the coil (that is positioned on the fixing bosses on the Inlet manifold) gets extremely hot. Could this be an issue?
Looking at some members cars I have noticed that the coil has been repositioned to the inner fender.
Cheers,

[Bullitt-]

Should be easy enough to eliminate the ignition side....next time it stalls pull the coil wire from the distributor cap & place near a ground, crank & if it sparks that's not the problem.
Electrical/heat issues have to cool down for some time to reset themselves. 

[UKcuda]

I have had a stalling problem since a full restoration on my 383 Challenger and have assumed it to fuel.  I have replaced all of the fuel side and both of the ignition modules. The coil is also new, but as the idle/stall issue is only when at full operating temperature. I have noticed that the coil (that is positioned on the fixing bosses on the Inlet manifold) gets extremely hot. Could this be an issue?
Looking at some members cars I have noticed that the coil has been repositioned to the inner fender.
Cheers,

The simple answer is "yes" the coil can overheat.  And it shouldn't get "extremely hot". 

When you say you have relaced both of the ignition modules, what do you mean?  There is only one thing that most people refer to as the ignition module.

You can check spark like Bullit says, it sounds like it could be a mis-matched ballast/coil situation.

[XBRIT]

Thanks for your input... I have changed both the Electronic Ignition Control Unit, Electronic Voltage Regulator and also the Ballast Resistor.
Cheers,

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Some coils only want to be mounted vertically, so throwing them on the intake manifold horizontally won't make them happy. What brand of coil are you using?

[ShelbyDogg]

Stalling could also be the pickup coil in the distributor if you switched to electronic ignition.   But you also said that this started after your full restorartion.  Check all of your grounds to be sure that they are touching bare metal. (ecu on the firewall)  But do the spark test as Bullit suggested, since the best time to check for spark is after it dies.

[shadango]

I was chasing a stalling issue the first year I had the car on the road ......I had changed all sorts of stuff and it seemed like the issue was fixed....then it happened again.....turns out the "new" ballast was bad....jus sitting by the side of the road a few minutes was enough for it to work again.....replaced that and knock wood, no issues since.

Also, check the crimps on the wiring to your ballast, firewall, etc.

I had installed a Bill Evans harness and had found several loose crimps and one wire (big black one at the firewall) came off in my hands.