74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel

Author Topic: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel  (Read 12884 times)

Offline femtnmax

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74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« on: November 15, 2010 - 10:44:10 PM »
Here's some update pics from June thru November.
Dashboard:  checked every wire, added volt and oil pressure gauges. Redid wiring for ammeter, bypassing the old gauge and ran alternator direct to starter relay.
Grille:  Front end is finished, looks good.  My wife did a great job cleaning every square of that aluminum grille.  Bug splats will be hard to clean ;D
Engine: A couple little details, otherwise ready for first fire-up.  The air cleaner stud clears the hood by about half an inch.  No carb spacer between the Tquad and RPM air gap intake.
Exhaust:  Hooker super comp headers, summit X-pipe, dynomax turbo muffler under rear seat, magnaflow mufflers next to gas tank, all mandrel bent pipes.  Reduce from 3 inch diam to 2.5 after X-pipe turns the pipes parallel with driveshaft.
Electric fuel pump:  Forward of rear axle, will use for priming fuel system only, hope to run off the mechanical pump when on the roads.
The parking brake cable runs above the sub-frame connectors, and above the exhaust, so cable routing worked out ok.
I thought the oil dipstick was ok, but was not getting an oil level reading.  The dipstick was deflecting off the oil pan windage scraper, so had to pull the pan and add a hole to the scraper.  THe oil pan comes off easy on this car, no need to lift the engine, just drop and loosen the steering drag link and idler arm.
Windshield and rear window are in, with trim installed.  Ended up using different trim clips, did not like the way the oem repros fit.  Used clips mostly #71-3467 & a few of the shorter height #83-5726.
Working on door and qtr window install, and a not too long list of odds and ends.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2010 - 11:12:01 PM by femtnmax »
Phil




Offline Tubbed440

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2010 - 06:54:38 PM »
 :woo: Very Nice! 
74 Dodge Challenger
500 inch stroker, Full cage, ladder bars,
coil-overs, 4L80E, 325/50 M/T DR's....street car!
(work in progress)

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2010 - 09:51:12 PM »
That'sa gonna bea onea nicea  Challenga   :thumbsup:
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
Screwed by Photobucket!

Offline DoNotChallengeHer

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2010 - 11:08:36 PM »
Looks great.  :2thumbs:

Offline femtnmax

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2010 - 08:20:42 PM »
Thanks for the complements.  First pic shows the dash, wanted all the gauges, but can't decide where to put a Sun tachometer.  Took some doing but was able to reset the speedo to Zero miles.  The original 74 speedo has a plastic rear bushing support that cracks apart, so the speedo in the car is 1970 vintage with all metal construction.
Second pic is carpet cut to fit around the homemade subframe connectors, I thougth this method looks ok, and won't have many folks in the back seat.
Last pics are exhaust routing over rear axle and magnaflow round muffler alongside gas tank.  Under the rear seat there is only room for the short Dynomax turbo muffler.  I had these on my work truck and they were a little loud, and had a drone at highway cruise speeds.  So on the chally I'm adding the magnaflows to hopefully eliminate the drone.  ON the work truck I switched to the longer dynomax turbo muffs, and the drone went away. My wife likes it better, we can talk with each other now.
Phil

Offline Street_Challenged73

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2010 - 08:55:49 PM »
That looks very nice! :cheers:
1973 Dodge Challenger......................The ongoing project. (00/----\00)
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo....The sunny day cruiser (RTBoost)
1990 Toyota Celica GT Liftback...........The new daily & winter driver.
All-American Muscle: 'Cudas and Challengers...Still the Elite and always will be.

                                                                                             
                 
Street_Challenged73 from Wisconsin

Offline femtnmax

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2010 - 08:52:06 PM »
Went to bleed the brakes and both rear wheel cylinders started leaking.  Investigation showed the old metal line to rear brakes still had crap in it even after cleaning, the gunk went into the new wheel cylinders and caused the seals to leak.  So ordered new brake lines and proportioning valve.
Started to put the doors/glass together...hit a brick wall.  There's a reason the door glass didn't fit correct or roll up/down.  Many parts missing.  Had several phone calls with Steve's Muscle Cars in Alma, AR...he his sending all the oem door hardware to assemble the doors.  Can't wait to get the parts.
Found OEM tinted glass for one door at Steves, and for the other door NIB PPG tinted at ProSource Glass International in Andover, MA.
While I'm waiting for dodge parts been taking two old Datsun 5 speed transmissions and making one good one.  There's enough good used parts along with new bearings, brass syncros, & seals to make a trany that will easily last over 100k miles.  The car is a 1979 210, with 5 speed and 1.4 liter mpg engine.  They were rated at 50 mpg, all that on 8:1 compression.  Increasing the compression to 10:1 should push the mileage to about 54-55.  The Datsun is for my wife, so both of us have a car we can't wait til its done:)
« Last Edit: December 12, 2010 - 08:27:54 PM by femtnmax »
Phil

Offline mopar12372

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2010 - 11:02:16 PM »
 :thumbsup:very nice!
MOPARTECH.NET ( come over and visit some time )
RESTO PICTURES
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=71096.30

Offline AARCUDADEN

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2010 - 07:24:35 PM »
Looks great man  :thumbsup:
Dennis,Ohio

Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #9 on: December 15, 2010 - 12:12:33 AM »
Real pretty!!!  WOuld love to see more pics of the body!  :thumbsup:
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline mopar12372

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #10 on: December 15, 2010 - 03:19:46 PM »
good work . nice and clean!
MOPARTECH.NET ( come over and visit some time )
RESTO PICTURES
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=71096.30

Offline joelson6

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #11 on: December 15, 2010 - 08:59:48 PM »
so, what's that Datsun bag doing in the middle of that disassembled tranny. is that one of those import Challengers?  :rofl:

Offline femtnmax

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #12 on: December 22, 2010 - 09:30:46 PM »
Replaced all the brake lines with new parts from In-Line-Tubing.  Everything fit real well.  Installed new rear wheel cylinders, but took them apart first and added OEM springs/cups between the wheel cylinder seals.  Adjusted rear drum brake adjusters out until could just slip brake drums over shoes.  Then onto brake bleeding.
Bleed the brakes, went real easy even though the master cylinder resevoir for rear brakes had completely drained.  Filled the master cylinder resevoirs half full, then slowly pumped brake pedal to floor...then hold it there until all bubbles quit rising in master cyl, then let pedal up all the way...again let all bubbles rise.   Then repeat about a dozen more times until no more bubbles rise.  Then with pedal to floor, bled right rear and left front.  Then repeat until just fluid runs out.  Then switched to left rear and right front until just fluid runs out.  Then went over all 4 wheels several more times to be sure all air is out.  Brake pedal was good and solid now.  Need to back the car up a number of times and hit the brakes, this will run the drum brake adjusters out and set them correctly.
 
Added manual choke to thermoquad carb.  Used choke cable for chally/cuda with Hemi, guess they all came with manual choke.  Dash frame has holes pre-drilled to fit the cable, just left of the two air door knobs.  Routed cable thru hole for dash insulation black plastic snap, just above the heater fan resistor.  This lined up cable real well with carb, and cleared distributor no problem.  There is no good place to attach end of black cable housing to carb, but linkage works real well just the way it is, so may run it this way for now and see how it goes.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2010 - 09:40:12 PM by femtnmax »
Phil

Offline femtnmax

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #13 on: January 11, 2011 - 09:34:20 PM »
I’ve had the rear quarter glass in/out a couple times now so here is my install method:

First I stuffed T-shirt rags into the gap between inside of qtr panel and unibody box frame at base of rear qtr glass opening to prevent parts from falling out of reach if/when I drop something.  This was a big help for me!!

1. Install outside weatherstrip to rear quarter panel.  I sealed mine to qtr panel with black RTV silicone.
2. Install window regulator, guiding roller into horizontal track that’s a welded part of unibody.
3. Loosely install base for forward vertical track, then attach vertical track to base with lower adjustment stud.  Leave out upper adjuster stud for vertical track.
4. Install quarter glass:  hold glass with “top” pointed forward/bottom pointed aft.  Slip the square plastic block on the base of the glass thru large fwd opening in the qtr panel.  Then rotate glass so “top” points mostly “up”.  The rear upstop peg on the glass will slip into wider gap toward the rear of the opening between qtr panel and interior panel. Then lower glass to bottom of qtr panel opening.
5. Install upper adjuster stud to top of vertical track.
6. Engage square block on pot metal fitting at base of glass with fwd side of vertical track.
7. Attach LONG bolt and round 2-piece plastic roller to aft side of vertical track and regulator arm, then thread bolt into pot metal fitting at base of glass.
8. Crank glass up a little ways from lowest position, then install tapered spring and SHORT bolt to center lowest location in pot metal fitting.  Small diameter of spring points inboard and pushes against the plastic guide block.
9. Adjust qtr glass to mate with door glass.

The square plastic block at fwd side of window track was the loosest connection of all the attach points.  I wrapped household doorbell wire (approx 18 gauge insulated wire) around between the plastic block and pot metal fitting.  Pulled the wire very tight and tied it off twice.   You can just see the loose ends of the wire in the picture. This took up most all the slop and made the glass always track to the same place when glass was cranked all the way up.

Last thing to do is lubricate the vertical track and horzontal guide track with a thin film of moly grease.
« Last Edit: January 11, 2011 - 09:54:53 PM by femtnmax »
Phil

Offline femtnmax

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Re: 74 Challenger driver theres light at end of the tunnel
« Reply #14 on: January 12, 2011 - 09:43:32 PM »
So last post installed the quarter glass.  Now added post to "interior" section of forum detailing door glass and door hardware assembly.
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=74301.0

The car has older style drivers door and newer style pass door.  I converted the new doors forward vertical glass guide (has two round posts that hold glass to track) to the older style that uses square plastic blocks.  The older door has the glass upstops on the outside of the door glass.  The newer door has the upstops located on the inside of the door glass, directly inboard across the door glass opening from the older style.
I adjusted the door and quarter glass close to correct location when glass is cranked all the way up, so now ready to glue in "top" window seal to channel that runs across and above the side glass.  I'll crank the glass all the way up to help hold the windwo seal in place while the 3M weatherstrip glue dries.  Should be able to make final glass adjustments once rubber seal is in place, then can finally install interior side panels and seats....
Have yet to buy tires, been putting off that expense but the time is almost here.
Phil