Author Topic: ruined windshield (Read 7395 times)

the_engineers · « **Reply #15 on:** December 17, 2010 - 11:14:13 PM »

My front was $150 installed. No issues with availability there.

Cooter · « **Reply #16 on:** December 18, 2010 - 12:13:19 AM »

First, lemme congratulate you on doing it yourself!

Now, I've pulled all my cars glass s NO GLASS COMAPNY WILL COVER YOUR GLASS IF THEY BREAK IT...I figure if it's gonna get broken, I might as well be the one to do it...The way i do this is to get a putty knife, sharpen the end edge of it intil basic sharp...Then, push from the INSIDE out until you have gone all the way round the inside of the glass..this is a two man job I don't care what you've heard. One man on the inside (You) and one on the outside "Catching" the glass..

Once out, then you get to clean up all that black Goo that holds the window in...FUN!

Think $200.00 is high for a windshield? Try $3000.00 For an NOS one for a 1958 plymouth, 2dr hd top (Christine)...Yeah, that one had me sweatin'...

elitecustombody · « **Reply #17 on:** December 18, 2010 - 12:47:14 AM »

Stop by your local Harbor Freight store and pick up a glass removal kit

acudanut · « **Reply #18 on:** December 18, 2010 - 11:02:27 AM »

Don't you mean China Harbor ?

mopar12372 · « **Reply #19 on:** December 18, 2010 - 11:11:56 AM »

use a butane torch on the back side of the glass . dont push pry /poke /neal prodd. heat ontil whole area is warm . poke the wire of your flavor onder glass. have someone olse on out side they pull up and away from glass in the same direction as person inside . person inside pulls twards inside car away from glass.

pro400a · « **Reply #20 on:** December 18, 2010 - 03:17:22 PM »

hey thanks guys for input,purchaced a set of guitar strings for $3 last nite.have pretty good idea of stradegy needed to remove glass successfully.hope.....anyway. yes back glass must come out lower corners in need of repair. will update when done.

BIGSHCLUNK · « **Reply #21 on:** December 18, 2010 - 04:43:46 PM »

I will admit I DID NOT READ every response in this post.......

BUT as a guy who's pulled more windshields in the last 26 years than anyone else (?? most likely anyway??) on this board I'd like to offer a few tips and observations

First .. any type of blade or knife type of tool for shield removal.. is good for one thing. Removing cracked/broken shields. I'm not saying a few have not been removed successfully using these tools but they are not the tool to use on a "good" sheild. SAVE YOUR MONEY.

Second... Over the years I've used a few different methods for successfull removal. All have involved wire. Shield removal is an aquired skill... you aint that good! Different cars used different seals and age does play a factor. I know what I'm doing and have broken a few over the years. Developing your techniqe and knowing what tools to use where takes time. This summer I sucessfully removed/sold the windshield from my 68 Charger. Ol ' BIGS did this all by his self. I didnt want my guys screwing this up as I knew there was NO second chance.

Three... windshlieds are like people. Unpredictable, tuff as nails, and fragile as a newborn all at the same time. Just because you can hack away with your ice scraper when its 10 degrees out doesnt mean it will survive that little titch with the screwdriver when you tried popping off that trim piece. Also when you do get one out, keep in mind its not a piece of 1/4 inch plywood. I can tell you a hundred stories of customers picking up shields and breaking them when they tried to load them.

Four... keep it simple. We get our windshield wire from Brock supply. You can buy fancy grip handles, but we just cut a few male seat belt ends , attach the wire and go from there, be very carefull with your initial cut through. A slim blade like a shapend old steak knife seems to be the prefered tool my guys like. Cut striaght dont flex the blade. Them after your hole is through guide the wire through. Then attach your ends or just put on your work gloves and go at it. For the inexperienced GO SLOWLY ITS NOT A PIECE OF WOOD!

Fifth... patience grasshopper.....

mopar12372 · « **Reply #22 on:** December 18, 2010 - 08:49:58 PM »

Quote from: BIGSHCLUNK on December 18, 2010 - 04:43:46 PM

I will admit I DID NOT READ every response in this post.......

BUT as a guy who's pulled more windshields in the last 26 years than anyone else (?? most likely anyway??) on this board I'd like to offer a few tips and observations

First .. any type of blade or knife type of tool for shield removal.. is good for one thing. Removing cracked/broken shields. I'm not saying a few have not been removed successfully using these tools but they are not the tool to use on a "good" sheild. SAVE YOUR MONEY.

Second... Over the years I've used a few different methods for successfull removal. All have involved wire. Shield removal is an aquired skill... you aint that good! Different cars used different seals and age does play a factor. I know what I'm doing and have broken a few over the years. Developing your techniqe and knowing what tools to use where takes time. This summer I sucessfully removed/sold the windshield from my 68 Charger. Ol ' BIGS did this all by his self. I didnt want my guys screwing this up as I knew there was NO second chance.

Three... windshlieds are like people. Unpredictable, tuff as nails, and fragile as a newborn all at the same time. Just because you can hack away with your ice scraper when its 10 degrees out doesnt mean it will survive that little titch with the screwdriver when you tried popping off that trim piece. Also when you do get one out, keep in mind its not a piece of 1/4 inch plywood. I can tell you a hundred stories of customers picking up shields and breaking them when they tried to load them.

Four... keep it simple. We get our windshield wire from Brock supply. You can buy fancy grip handles, but we just cut a few male seat belt ends , attach the wire and go from there, be very carefull with your initial cut through. A slim blade like a shapend old steak knife seems to be the prefered tool my guys like. Cut striaght dont flex the blade. Them after your hole is through guide the wire through. Then attach your ends or just put on your work gloves and go at it. For the inexperienced GO SLOWLY ITS NOT A PIECE OF WOOD!

Fifth... patience grasshopper.....

yep i agree. i picked up my new wind shield 4months back and crrrrack . chit was i pissed!!

Sean · « **Reply #23 on:** December 19, 2010 - 11:18:42 PM »

With the help of my brother, I used safety wire wrapped around two wrenches. Kinda ghetto, but it worked!

Sean

E-Body Products · « **Reply #24 on:** December 20, 2010 - 12:11:04 AM »

I used a string too on my back glass. My front window was foggy, so I used my foot from the inside.

1970RTSE · « **Reply #25 on:** December 23, 2010 - 08:15:42 PM »

I used a couple of different tools. First I picked up a couple of 2" putty knives from harbor freight. I hit them with a grinder to form a V shape in the side (like a linolium knife). I also heated the blade close to the handle and bent the handle 45 deg from the blade so I could slide the blade in from the inside and have clearence for my hand. I slowly worked the putty knife around using the V as a blade for grabbing the sealent. From the out side I ground down an old screw driver so that it was about 1/8" wide. I used that to scoop out the sealent from the outside. It took about three hours of slowly working, but I was able to lift it right out.

Giveitawack · « **Reply #26 on:** December 24, 2010 - 03:19:52 AM »

I have used this �tool� a number of times.

Throttle cable for a bike
2 pieces of �� tube

Tied knots on the cable for more sawing action.
Make a passage in the glue in the upper part of the frame and one in the lower part. Thread the cable from the outside in the upper part. Pull the cable from the inside of the car and thread the cable out again in the lower passage. Pull out the end of the cable and attach it to the other tube.
Grab the tubes in each hand and saw towards you.

pro400a · « **Reply #27 on:** December 24, 2010 - 08:15:29 AM »

i have success--glass removal complete-believe it or not one man job,and welding wire.guitar string ok but did not last as long,broke alot.welding wire did too but not as often and was plentiful. wish i would have posted for advise before i ruined front winshield,but thats ok.windshield not orig. any way and did have small bullseye.guess wasnt as perfect as thought.just want to say thanks again guys who helped with advise.GOD BLESS AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!! btw here are a few pics...

E-Body Products · « **Reply #28 on:** December 24, 2010 - 03:59:59 PM »

Off topic, but your trunk seal has the seam in the dutchman panel (trunk filler panel). The seam should be on the tail panel so water doesn't leak into your trunk. Just trying to help you out far down the road and keep your trunk cozy and dry.

pro400a · « **Reply #29 on:** December 24, 2010 - 04:31:13 PM »

yes i know..been like that since bought..never leaked..and seal will soon be removed..thanks for observing.

Author Topic: ruined windshield (Read 7395 times)

the_engineers

Re: ruined windshield

Cooter

Re: ruined windshield

elitecustombody

Re: ruined windshield

acudanut

Re: ruined windshield

mopar12372

Re: ruined windshield

pro400a

Re: ruined windshield

BIGSHCLUNK

Re: ruined windshield

mopar12372

Re: ruined windshield

Sean

Re: ruined windshield

E-Body Products

Re: ruined windshield

1970RTSE

Re: ruined windshield

Giveitawack

Re: ruined windshield

pro400a

Re: ruined windshield

E-Body Products

Re: ruined windshield

pro400a

Re: ruined windshield