Using C-Body spindles on an E-Body ( and A-Body LCA's & Viper calipers)

[cudamax2343]

Sweet real Sweet. If you can get more Dial it in. and ya the Bump Steer is just about Impossible to get Zero. I'm wondering why you were concerned about Chassis Compression and not Measuring going up? and are you concerned about the 2-4 inchs of front end Rise at about 100mph and the problems that it causes and if so what kinda plans do you have in the works to help that. A nice spoiler kinda something like used in SCCA in 1970 would do the Trick and give-ya the plow needed to really take advantage of your Sweet mods and stop the front end from rising and give-ya 2 cooling Ducts to mount up to those Calipers. Also did you change out all the brake line tubing with Stainless? and did you install the adjustable rear brake proportioning valve and Dail that in?
Really loved what you did with that thing and I'm Impressed with all the Work

[brads70]

Thanks.  I installed a Wilwood adjustable p-valve and truck rear wheel cylinders, but I never had to adjust the rears at all. I did change out all the flex lines to braided stainless, but all the hard lines are still factory originals. They were in great shape so no need to change them. ( Gotta love CA cars!  )
I have thought about making a trans-am style front spoiler out of aluminum but...... maybe someday?
I'm not really all that concerned with driving 100MPH + , and ya I know how they lift in the front . I almost killed myself in the late 80's with my first Challenger going fast! I couldn't steer!

[cudamax2343]

Ya They get real unstable with the lift at any speeds above 90mph. Good that you got the Adjustment into the system usually all factory stock Brake combos favor more presure to the rears. Maybe a safe factory liability thing and maybe with the bigger rear cyl and the massive front Improvement you hit right on. The reason I've brought up the factory brake lines is this. When they are exposed to the upper higher limits of pressure (and this is on a brand new line not an old 1970 one ) they expand ever soo slightly causing what seems like brake fade. With your bigger/higher flow/more capable nicer system you got hang-in on there depending on how your leaning on those and your outside temps and how much repeated attempts of trying to Haul that baby down might be your only limiting component in your system right up their with your Rubber.
Really Enjoy all your Mods and also you you have the factory numbers on those Spindles. I pulled a few pairs way back in the early 80's at some boneyards and what to Identify them. I remember the ones I pulled were from A bodies. I think mid 70s ones.

[73EStroker]

Brad - can you take the time to list in bullet form all the mods/parts you have in your system please. Would be helpful and EG for the Strut Rods you could say
-Adjustable Strut Rods by Brad
- C body spindles year XXXX
ETC, ETC, ETC

Would save the big read through 8 pages. This is a great article and after taking my car on a 300km each way trip with bump steer all the way (BC roads) I am going to get aggressive about upgrading the suspension. Off to Calgary tomorrow in it (more BC roads) for the High River show - 900 cars.

[brads70]

Thanks guys! It's been a fun project! Kept my mind busy! 
Parts I used....
 A-BODY lower control arms, 3/16" longer than E-Body
 1973 C-Body spindles - 2-3 degs more KPI than E-body 5/8" spindle drop, 5/8" taller than E-Body
 1973 C-Body drilled /slotted rotors 1 1/4" thick, fits the Viper calipers with no pad shims!
 Howe "quick bump" outter tie rods - I used 11/16" housings
 Viper Calipers with custom flex lines-EBC yellow pads
 custom caliper bracket- I made
 custom adjustable strut rods , I made my own
 Hotchkis upper control arms, sway bars front and rear, RCD Bilstein shocks
 Firm feel fast ratio pitman and idler arms
 Firm feel greasable LCA pins and poly bushings
 66-70 B-Body center link
 1" torsion bars. I'd like to try bigger ones in the future 1.060 maybe?

 Thanks to Hotchkis, Howe and Firm feel for the aftermarket suport! They all make fantastic products!

Here is the parts list 73ESTROKER 

[73EStroker]

Awesome Brad, did not realize it was already done. - just sitting here waiting the rain out to head for Calgary. High River Show is next Sunday.

[SBDave]

Are these the studs you used?

 http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/46180/10002/-1?parentProductId=748727


Thanks,
Dave

[brads70]

Are these the studs you used?

 http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/46180/10002/-1?parentProductId=748727


Thanks,
Dave

Hummm I can;t remember now?  Just depends on the knurl size. I can't remember what the C-Body rotors were now.

[SBDave]

I picked up some cordoba rotors and pressed a stud out.  I measure about a .617" knurl.  On Jegs these are the only Moroso stud they list for Chrysler front discs and the knurl is .615".  I'm gonna go for it.

thanks,
Dave

[brads70]

I picked up some cordoba rotors and pressed a stud out.  I measure about a .617" knurl.  On Jegs these are the only Moroso stud they list for Chrysler front discs and the knurl is .615".  I'm gonna go for it.

thanks,
Dave

Oh that will work then.... .oo2" difference is nothing

[Mopar Mitch]

Hi Brad,
Very great thread on all your front end work.  I'd strongly recommend larger torsion bars... I have preogressed all the way up to 1.24" ... you WILL eventually want something larger than the 1.06...  just get the biggest ones you can find... isn't 1.20 or 1.22 avlbl somewhere?  if not... they should!  ( I got mine from California Suspension/Moparts back in ~1985.. they're out of business now, but somebody's got to have bigger bars like mine out there!!!!

[brads70]

Hi Brad,
Very great thread on all your front end work.  I'd strongly recommend larger torsion bars... I have preogressed all the way up to 1.24" ... you WILL eventually want something larger than the 1.06...  just get the biggest ones you can find... isn't 1.20 or 1.22 avlbl somewhere?  if not... they should!  ( I got mine from California Suspension/Moparts back in ~1985.. they're out of business now, but somebody's got to have bigger bars like mine out there!!!!

Thanks for your input! The biggest that Firm Feel has is 1.180" I very rarely see the 1.2 on e-bay now and then. This is 99% a street car so I worry about the ride with bigger T bars? Lots of rough roads here etc.. What's yours like on the street?

[brads70]

I'm just in the process of installing a new strange Dana 60 with rear disc's , Hyperco composite 175lb rate leaf springs and just ordered 1.120 torsion bars from Firm feel. I was too chicken to get the 1.180's? 
Installing a new 451"/Keisler auto OD 4 speed too. Also a new firm feel stage 3 power steering box ( old one leaked bad!)
Ok... now I'm broke!   






Some pictures of the k-frame out.

[warhorse]

With all your handling mods just about finished you should throw it around a road course to see how it feels. There is nothing like a good flogging on  a race track to iron out or expose any handling defeciencies. Be sure to get some obligatory in car footage if you do.

[brads70]

Just a small update. I swapped out the 175lb leaf springs for 225lb rate over the winter and it's much better. Just thought I'd save someone  from buying the wrong rate composite springs?
Also the 1.120" torsion bars are MUCH better than the 1" ones!    The ride is not real rough either. About the same as a late 70 vette to try and compare?

Here is a link to the rear composite leaf spring install/modifications .
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=83031.45