Using C-Body spindles on an E-Body ( and A-Body LCA's & Viper calipers)

[brads70]

Brad - I am tailgating you here with some of the suspension changes. My Hotchkiss UCAs I was going to install using the cam bolts. Is that not correct as I saw in this article that you mentioned the pain it was to remove the UCAs to make adjustments by turning the HEIMs. Am real interested in the rest of the changes you are making so hope you can summarise once you are done.

 Ya to make adjustments I removed the ball joint from the spindle (just snug the ball joint nut, not tight when installing it) then remove the Hotchkis supplied 1/2" fine SHCS from the relocation bracket and the spacers. Doing this allows enough space to turn the whole arm around the other rod end to make adjustments. adjust the other rod end then assemble again to check. Took me about 4 hours once I got the hang of it to set it all up with the caster camber gauge. Pain in the butt? Ya but I'm still glad I bought them! Nice pieces they won't break! But way overpriced for what they are? Now that I see them I wish I would have made my own. I'm going to do just that for a buddy's stock car I'm helping him with.( 71 Charger and a Cuda, both stock cars from long ago)

[HP2]

Optional control arm idea- Speedway, strut type 7.25" tubular arms. Use a GM truck ball joint ( has the same taper as a mopar), cut out the stock upper arm mounts, mount new arms to a tapered pad against the same inner fender piece where the stock units were. The tapered pad is to allow the arm to space off the wall some for articulation and adds positive caster.

BTW, these control arms are $40 each, ball joints are $15.

[RTSE4ME]

Brad - you must not have TTI headers. I want these but cannot have them due to my TTIs

The 2" TTIs will fit the fast ratio arms.

[brads70]

Use a GM truck ball joint ( has the same taper as a mopar), cut out the stock upper arm mounts, mount new arms to a tapered pad against the same inner fender piece where the stock units were. The tapered pad is to allow the arm to space off the wall some for articulation and adds positive caster.

BTW, these control arms are $40 each, ball joints are $15.

Are you sure about that? It's pretty common to use Chevy Van ball joints in Chevy chassis but I thought Mopar and Ford use a different taper/foot than GM?
For me I didn't want to modify the car , just modify bolt on parts so it could always be put back to stock if someone wanted to down the road. You know after they pry the keys from my dead cold fingers! With so many modifying their cars I think down the road the stock unmolested cars will be worth more than the modified ones as they will be somewhat rare?
In the stock car application ( street stock class) you can't modify the pick up points/mounts.

[HP2]

Yup, positive.  Chevy truck, 63-71. The Moog 6024 Chevy joint has the same 7* taper per foot as Moog 722 and 727 Chrysler joints, only it is the flat plate, bolt in style like all other GM upper ball joints. So they will bolt right in to Speedway arms without requiring taper ream of the mopar spindle. Otherwise yes, most GM stuff is a 10* taper.

[brads70]

Yup, positive.  Chevy truck, 63-71. The Moog 6024 Chevy joint has the same 7* taper per foot as Moog 722 and 727 Chrysler joints, only it is the flat plate, bolt in style like all other GM upper ball joints. So they will bolt right in to Speedway arms without requiring taper ream of the mopar spindle. Otherwise yes, most GM stuff is a 10* taper.

Good to know ,thanks! Do you know if the tie rod tapers are 7 degrees also?

[HP2]

Hmm, never checked the tie rods. I'll try to do that this weekend.

[brads70]

Just one of the Howe tie rods came in!    I want to drive this old buggy darn it! I just had time today to machine the ball joint ,assemble and try the bump steer gauge again. Just the way I threw it together got the bump steer down to .110"    I didn't have time to do any adjusting.  I'll have to weld on a threaded tube on the bottom of the steering arm to add some support as the folks at Howe suggested. I sure love the quality of Howe stuff! Moves like ball bearings!

[brads70]

Hmm, never checked the tie rods. I'll try to do that this weekend.

Thanks. I ask as I have a pair of bigger tie rods from another project and a 66-70 Charger center link to experiment with. These bigger tie rods are about 1/8" taller than the Dodge ones. I was thinking I would try installing the Charger center link machined for the taller/bigger tie rod.( raises the tie rod). The Charger center link is straight/symmetrical , unlike the e-body center link that has the one side bent? Still wondering why they did that? Clearance for 4 speed z-bar maybe? exhaust clearance?

[bjkadron]

Hello, I stumbled upon this topic while I was looking for information on swapping Viper calipers onto my Plymouth Duster. I was wondering if you would be willing to share the measurements for the brake caliper adapters. I was going to go to 13" brakes, but the prospect of being able to use 15" wheels is very exciting so I may not. Anyway, Very nice work! After using CNC Milling machines I find it hard to imagine going back to a manual mill for stuff like this so I admire your patience and skills.

[brads70]

Hello, I stumbled upon this topic while I was looking for information on swapping Viper calipers onto my Plymouth Duster. I was wondering if you would be willing to share the measurements for the brake caliper adapters. I was going to go to 13" brakes, but the prospect of being able to use 15" wheels is very exciting so I may not. Anyway, Very nice work! After using CNC Milling machines I find it hard to imagine going back to a manual mill for stuff like this so I admire your patience and skills.

 Did you just want the Viper caliper dimensions or all the points to adapt to the C-Body rotor?

[brads70]

Well I'm all done.I FINALLY have all the parts now.
 I found the best centerlink to use is the 66-70 B-body. It gave me at worst .056" of bumpsteer in 3" up upward wheel travel. When I started I had about 9/16"( .550") of bumpsteer with the C-Body spindles and A-Body LCA's! The e-body centerlink was not all that bad  so I wouldn't go to great lenghts to get a B-Body centerlink if your wanting to clone my set up. I ended up using 11/16 Howe tie rods with the 5/8" threaded stud for adjustments. I had to weld suports/gussets to the lower ball joints. I had a certified welder do this. I made the parts and he welded them on for me. Here are a few pictures of parts used. I hope to get this all final assembled this weekend and I'll get some better pictures then. I'm dying to get this on the road and see how it handles!

[brads70]

Been wrenching all evening and I'm almost finished!    I have tomorrow off ( 4 day weekend!)
Just have to bleed the front calipers and weld in the rear sway bar mounts, set the toe, and she is on the road. Weather man is calling for nice weather for the next couple of days too! 
I had to machine down the caliper banjo bolts .120" in length to work with the Viper calipers. Custom brake lines worked good! I'm using 1/2" wheel spacers to get some clearance between the tie rod and the tire and it widens the front track too! I had to use Moroso longer wheel studs

[Strawdawg]

Beautiful job!

[Bullitt-]

Shizzle McDizzle     Nice work Brad