Using C-Body spindles on an E-Body ( and A-Body LCA's & Viper calipers)

[brads70]

Hi Barry,    I don't think I would ever offer a complete package. I'll just list the parts required and drawings if necessary so you can build your own. More fun that way! The hard part is finding the spindles as they are a one year only deal.( 1973 only) They are not impossible to find, just take some "Internet hunting" I use this site to find and check interchange.
http://www.car-part.com/
Nice thing about this site is if you want rust free stuff then buy parts from CA or whatever? Like any online deal, be careful as I'm sure not all the vendors are "honest"
I scored the rust free A-Body LCA's from a bodies only. I figured I rather give my cash to a fellow Mopar guy that some wrecking yard I don't know.

[brads70]

those steering arms would need to be drop forged just like Firm Feel's pitman arm.  The longer pitman arm accomplishes the same thing.

If one were to do that, the steering arms would be like $90 ea, just like Firm Feel's custom idler arm.  Also, a shorter steering arm would require more effort to turn (less leverage at the wheel) and also, the tires would also try to determine the steering that much more, too.

The big issue is getting the outside tie-rod the correct height to eliminate bump steer.  Hotchkis has already accomplished that.

   Not something I would be willing to be liable for. I don't think they would be very cost effective either.
I envisioned a lower ball joint that uses a screw in ball joint with the steering arm in the perfect spot that uses a stock tie rod. Again it would be expensive to produce.
I'm not a big fan of rod ends on the street. On my strut rod I made I used rod end seals to keep some of the road crap out of the rod end, hopefully they will last a long time?
http://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp

[brads70]

I had to get a new adapter for my caster camber gauge as mine had a magnetic adapter for rotors. FYI a Ford Pinto shares the same spindle thread as a Mopar 3/4-16" http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=138&catid=5

I still have to set the car at the right ride height to start setting up caster camber.



 Another bit of info is with A-Body LCA's . I noticed when trying the caster/camber gauge out that the spindle didn't have the same turning radius as the E-Body ( B-Body too I would guess?) When I took a closer look to figure out why I discovered the difference is in the LCA not the ball joint as both A-Body and E-Body use the same lower ball joint. This picture is of a drivers side E-Body LCA ( dirty one) and a passenger side A-Body LCA. Notice the area where the ball joint/steering arm stop contacts the LCA. The A-Body LCA sticks up about 7/16" as compared to the E-Body LCA. Also notice that the strut rod and shock is in a slightly different position. Something to watch out for at a swap meet with a bunch of LCA's in a pile.
I'm going to machine down the stop on the ball joint 7/16" as I already have the LCA all painted.

[Aussie Challenger]

The A Body arm seems not as tall as the E Body also, small differences but everything can add up, the camber/caster guage I used to use had a magnetic face which went onto the bearing hub.

[brads70]

The A Body arm seems not as tall as the E Body also, small differences but everything can add up, the camber/caster guage I used to use had a magnetic face which went onto the bearing hub.

I think it's just as tall and looks like they both use the same casting/forging that gets riveted to the control arm. The stamped sides are a little different shape, not a big deal.
My caster/camber gauge has the same magnetic hub too. I just got impatient waiting for rotors and bought the spindle adapter.

[Aussie Challenger]

Thanks for that Brad, I would have thought it strange that Chrysler would make too many changes to what appears to be a universal lower control arm pattern.   

[brads70]

Well I got my C-Body rotors this past weekend. I mocked up a wheel ,spindle,and Viper brake caliper to get an idea of how I'll mate the caliper to the spindle. I think I have it all figured out. Viper caliper is going to be tight but doable. Gonna swap the spindles left to right to mount the calipers. . Just gotta decide on aluminum or steel for the mounts? If aluminum I have material lying around if steel I gotta order some. Hopefully the chips will be flying tomorrow!

[brads70]

Couldn't wait till tomorrow! Aluminum it is! Chips are flying and the garage is a mess but hey that's progress! Got a good start on it tonight hopefully get a good chunk of them machined or finished tomorrow! Classic rock tunes cranked temperature was perfect (a little cool) had a great time whittling away!

[Slotts]

Absolutely awesome work, Brad! I love it! 

Slotts

[brads70]

Got one side all whittled out. Now I just gotta assemble it all and check clearances before I finish up the other side. The Viper caliper dosen't have much clearance to play with. About an 1/8" on my rims. Sure wish I had a CNC machine in my garage. Takes awhile manually.

[brads70]

   They fit! Viper Calipers on a 15" rim ARE a tight squeeze , but I figured that. Love it when a plan comes through!

[Aussie Challenger]

Whittling away your time has produced excellent results, is there enough clearance for a balance weight?

[brads70]

is there enough clearance for a balance weight?

I used to have stick on weights right were the caliper goes so I'll have to use the traditional hammer on weights on the rim lip on the back now. No big deal .

[Doomed]

Great work Brad!

Kyle.

[Katfish]

Nice work!  Once you get it all together, are you going to do any quantitative braking tests?

I'd really like to know what the true benefit is for the Viper calipers.