This method worked for me:
1. Attach outside weatherstrip to door. I used black RTV silicone to seal it to the door shell. The factory method is to install the glass assembly into door with glass resting at bottom of door shell, then install weatherstrip, then attach glass to regulator. I had already installed and sealed the weatherstrip and didn't want to take it back off. Maybe made more work for myself, but it turned out ok in the end.
2. Install window regulator into upper square hole in door shell. I revolved the crank handle to bury the large toothed gear into the regulator before installing into door.
3. Install short horizontal track located near rear of door, engage regulator arm.
4. Install base for forward vertical guide.
5. Install down stop rubber block into center of bottom of door shell.
6. Placed scrap pieces of wood in bottom of door to rest glass assembly onto.
7. Assembled door glass:
At the front there is one upstop peg, 2 vertical track guides, and one “nut” for horizontal lift channel. After attaching the 2 track guides to the outside curve of the glass, slip the vertical track over the two square guide blocks to align them with the track, then remove the track. I used pieces of antifreeze jugs to insulate the sheet metal spring “nuts’ for the track guides from the glass since the original insulators had crumbled to pieces. Even though I had one 70/71 door and one 73/74 door I chose to go with the earlier square guide blocks, they seemed to support the glass better and won’t wear out as quickly. The round ones that came with my newer door were real loose and ready to fall apart whereas the older square guide blocks were holding up great. I picked up an older window track to mate with the older style square guide blocks to convert my 'new' door track to the older style.
At the rear of the glass is guide assembly for rear track, which goes on the outside curve of the glass. Don't forget the short pieces of vacuum hose that prevent the metal stud theads from contacting the glass. Attach guide to glass with nut/washer/gasket and rear upstop peg. Leave out the 3rd fastener for now, its the rear bolt for the lift channel ( also has a short piece of vacuum hose to protect glass from threads). The lift channel bolts are long, with small diameter captive washer. I used the same bolt at both front and rear of lift channel. The small washer allows the washer to sit in the recessed trough in the lift channel. A perfect replacement for these bolts is the one that holds the ignition ballast resistor to the fire wall. Just shorten it to about 7/8 inch length. The glass would slide past the door weathestrip easier if this rear guide assembly was left off the glass, and for sure the glass would slip in easier on the newer doors that have the rear upstop facing inboard as there won't be room for the guide assy and upstop to slip into the door opening.
Upstops: older doors have the front and rear upstop pegs on the glass facing outboard, and the upstops with rubber band cushion attach to the door shell just below the weatherstrip that contacts the outside of the glass. Newer doors have the upstop pegs on the glass facing inboard using the same holes in the glass as the older style, and the upstops attach to the door shell inboard from the glass. They are a metal “L’ shaped bracket with welded on stud. These upstops are located directly across the door glass opening from the older style upstops. There are round holes in the door inboard framing that allow access to attach the newer style upstops.
8. Installed door glass assembly into door without the forward vertical track. Gently pushed rear guide on glass past the outside weatherstrip, then lower front guide blocks thru opening in door shell. Lower glass to bottom of door and rest on wood blocks.
9. Install horizontal lift channel. Engage channel with regulator and attach to glass. Slot in channel goes to the rear. Front of channel will have hole for fastener and a raised dimple just behind the hole. This dimple prevents the “nut” on the glass from rotating as the bolt is tightened. The plastic part of the nut has one or two small “wings” that will contact the dimple.
10. With the glass as low as it will go, insert the forward vertical guide and slip it onto the two guide blocks that are attached to the glass. With the window crank, raise the glass some and attach lower end of fwd vertical track to its base.
11. Install felt guides to top of inner door shell. Adjust them so the glass is held against the outside weatherstrip.
12. Install rear vertical glass guide thru large square opening at inside of door. Fasten tops of fwd and rear vertical tracks.
13. Install outside door handle, door rear latch mechanism, and two links between outside handle and latch. One of these links is for opening the door, and the LONG end of the link attaches to the outside door handle. If installed backwards the linkage binds up when the door handle is pulled. Then install the door opening handle that you reach from inside the door, and its link which has a groove in the link that a metal retainer clip engages at the door handle. Then install the inside door lock and link. These last two links are cloth covered and fit between #3 (the short horizontal track) and door inner shell. May have to loosen the track to slip the links into place.
Topic: Door assembly - installing glass windows, handles, linkage (Read 22862 times)
