Goodmark Full Quarters - Argh!

[JonS]

I have AMD everything and Goodmark Fenders (was advised that there have been fewer problems with the Goodmarks lately).  Everything lines up really well with very little modification:

- Fits well enough around the roof skin
- Fits well around the gutter / dutchman
- Fits OK around the tailpanel (see picture where it comes around the point)
- Fits well around the wheel well and along the door
- Fits crappy around the trunk extension! (See pictures)

The trunk extension is what really has me worried.  I've been clamping, pushing, prying, beating on, and otherwise frustrating myself at the fit here... I'm within 1/4" along the fold where the trunk extension starts going UP towards the tail panel but I just can't get it there.  There is also a gap (greater than 1/4") where the tail panel comes to a point and then goes down.

The Quarters fit basically identically on both sides of the car with these problems... I know that I need to work the metal; but right now the metal is working me.  Does anyone have a suggestion on what I can do to get this last bit of massaging?  I've literally almost pulled the car off all the jack stands trying to get this tugged into place.  Other than the illustrated issues I'm really happy and pretty close.  I do need to get the door back on and check that too... but I'd like to get past this first.

I also posted a picture of the quarter to dutchman side view.  It didn't countour very well... but I've read about that problem on here before.  I'll end up living with that (I still have a little bit more room to tweak it but it'll always be there).

[JonS]

More Pictures

[aris_unlimited]

I know it's not very useful advice.........but this is why I employ a body work guy lol.

[JonS]

Aris,

You're right   Not real helpful!

I'm sure I'll ultimately beat this thing into place.  I ended up bleeding the brakes on the GTO last night as a change of pace and a short breather.  Sometimes stepping off your work for a minute gives you a chance to look at the situation and find a good solution.

I've never restored a car (and this one needs everything), so everything I'm doing is for the first time.

[Challenger III]

I'm sure I'll ultimately beat this thing into place. 

Easy now!  Mine was like that and I had to work the drop offs to fit properly. It did involve a little cutting and welding of the new sheetmetal. Make sure you have your rear valance handy and test fit it frequently while you get everything adjusted. It's also a good idea to have a bumper nearby. Dont weld anything until you're sure it's where you want it. Remember, everything wasn't absolutely perfect off the assembly line, so you have an opportunity here to fit everything nicer! 

All my stuff was AMD fyi.

[MoparCar]

I'm actually at the same exact point. I started with AMD and couldn't stand the way way wrong contour of the body line and curve at the door edge and the way too high line at the roof seam. I then went to Goodmark which overall in MY application fit much better overall.

I needed to make a cut where the quarter trim wraps at 90* at the tail panel so the contours line up to the deck lid. Your pictures are exactly like I have where it meets the drop downs/tail panel. Cut and bend those to fit and yes have the valance to test fit.

Wes

[moprr]

My AMD Quarter fits the same way at the back of the car when I did a test fit.  Not sure what I am going to do about it.  When you get it figured out post some pic's if you don't mind.

[jimynick]

Jon, I'm also right where you are and sometimes you've got to remember the way these cars were built in the first place. I dug gobs of filler/sealer out of ALL the seams in mine and you've got to remember that "you can't make chicken salad out of chicken $hit, no matter HOW much mayo you use". I put a tapered bar in the gauge holes of the trunk extension and using 2 fingered vicegrips, pulled it to the 1/4 after clamping everything else down firmly. I'd then slope the trunk floor standup seam back a wee bit while clamping/bending the lwr body panel edge to try to tighten the joint where the 1/4 meets it. You may have to weld a piece on the end of the body pnl to extend it enough. Basically, you have to steal tolerance from each part to get as close as possible. Trying to achieve perfection where none existed before can be exasperating. My parts are all AMD with the oem rear body panel as well. Good luck

[IMNCARN82]

Get out your hammer and dolly.Have you tried the lower rear valence on yet?The dropoffs flex quite a bit.   Don't be afraid to relief cut the return flanges wherever necessary to get things where you want.Especially along the doors.It really helps the panel conform. It's never perfect,I feel your pain.  If you can't massage that corner out I'd weld or lead it. As said,watch the heat.   Take your time here,You are real close.Fit up is everything. I had to force myself to take a break sometimes. It's looking real good!  All these new panels need this type of work no matter where they come from. Or what they are for. Keep up the good work! 

[mopardave]

makes sure you mount the rear valance what the bottom of the quarters are lose. 1/4 to 3/8 of a gap back then wasnt un common, Mostly when these are going back to gether they are over clampped and to tight.  Main reason for body caulk.

[JonS]

Dave,

Although stupidly obvious... your comment was like a lightbulb going off...  I've clamped everything really tight, but you're right... if I try to mimic factory and give myself some room I should have plenty of room to get these pulled to where they need to be.

Excellent tip and good advice!   

Jon

[E-Body Products]

We used a Sherman Qtr (Same as Goodmark) and was able to get a very nice fit by using Dave's method above.  If you attache firmly too early prior to having everything lined up, you can cause some serious distortion.

[jimynick]

Jon, I took another look at the photos and it seems that if the trunk floor is on the x-member at proper height, then your rear body (taillamp) panel needs to come down approx. 1/2". It should be on the trunk floor while being overlapped fully by the standup flange of the floor. I could see where it barely covers that flange. Set the floor on the x-member, the rear body panel right down on the floor and fit the 1/4 to conform to that point. I put mine in last night and had to clamp the top of the body pnl to the 1/4 and then pull the body pnl in at the bottom up against the trnk floor pnl. It matches the factory fit (1/4") gap, but I own a BFH and that will  get massaged together. As mentioned, don't weld anything until you get a fit. I'm going to put on my deck lid to make sure the gaps are right with the 1/4's before ANY welding takes place. Lots of vice grips and I also use Clecos- they're fabulous for pinning parts together. How's yours coming?

[jackie]

also make sure that the car is sitting with all of the weight on the tires.. it very well may be i, could not tell.. good luck.

[JonS]

Finally got back on this last night.  I had a few busy weeks and wasn't able to put any time in.

I made the mistake of welding in my trunk extensions before having anyone's advice.  I had to cut them back off.  As soon as I did, the quarters fit on as they should.  The driver side is perfect.  The passenger side will take just a bit more massaging to get it right (but it's good enough that I could weld it and call it good).  The valance seems like it matches up right.

I'm going to with with Jimynick's advice and throw the deck lid on as well to check fitment there as well.

I'll post pictures when I get an opportunity.

Jon