Author Topic: Power Windows (Read 4322 times)

T/ASteveg31 · « **on:** February 01, 2011 - 08:35:31 AM »

Hi to all, I�m looking for pictures or diagrams on power windows for my 1970 Dodge challenger. I have the wiring,Panels and some switchs but don�t know how it runs through door and body. If anyone can help it would be appreciated. Thanks Steve

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #1 on:** February 13, 2011 - 07:45:33 PM »

Here Steve, I'm in the process off reinstalling all the power window stuff in my vert. Right now I have everything wired up in the basement floor to my dash, to test all of my power window switches and motors.

The short door harness goes through 2 holes a small one at the top of the kick panel and through a bigger hole into the door. The door has a dimple to center your hole saw before drilling the hole, so look for the dimple on you new door.

T/ASteveg31 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 20, 2011 - 01:47:49 PM »

Thank You, For the help with the wiring through the body and door. I couldn't find anything on power windows. Thank again for your help.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #3 on:** February 20, 2011 - 03:05:50 PM »

Quote from: T/ASteveg31 on February 20, 2011 - 01:47:49 PM

Thank You, For the help with the wiring through the body and door. I couldn't find anything on power windows. Thank again for your help.

Need any help with the wiring?

T/ASteveg31 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2011 - 03:02:16 PM »

I have some info on wiring from the repair manual. If you have anything better, that would be great. I'm starting from scratch. I have all the panels, wires that run from kick panels right and left I think and left front panel 4 switch, right front panel one switch, looking for the back 2 single switches and all motors that I hope are working. Thanks Again.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2011 - 04:12:08 PM »

Quote from: T/ASteveg31 on February 21, 2011 - 03:02:16 PM

I have some info on wiring from the repair manual. If you have anything better, that would be great.

All I'm using is the manual too and a wiring harness thats all spread out on the floor at the moment.
You have the wiring "TO" the kick panel from the main harness, right? Circuit breaker and safety relay that toggles with the ACC circuit?

If you are converting a non-PW car, you had to get all that off of the fuse box too.

T/ASteveg31 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 25, 2011 - 10:59:53 AM »

I'll check to see if I have that relay and breaker. I didn't pull it off the old car. If u get a chance what is the diameter of the holes in door and the body? Thanks Again.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #7 on:** February 25, 2011 - 12:58:00 PM »

Quote from: T/ASteveg31 on February 25, 2011 - 10:59:53 AM

I'll check to see if I have that relay and breaker. I didn't pull it off the old car. If u get a chance what is the diameter of the holes in door and the body? Thanks Again.

I'll get some dimensions this weekend if I don't lose this notification. The breaker went in the set of holes next to the horn relay and the safety relay clicked on the side of the fuse box into one of those slim slots. If you don't have that stuff, you could use a 30 amp breaker and a relay that get energized when the key is in the ACC positon. It's main power comes from the main feed to the fusebox.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2011 - 07:53:19 PM »

2" door hole, 1.5"hole centered at the dimple behind the kick panel.

T/ASteveg31 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 01, 2011 - 03:19:18 PM »

Thanks Again, ShelbyDogg for your help.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #10 on:** March 12, 2011 - 10:15:28 PM »

I was putting in some of my power window wiring today and noticed that the rubber "corks" that the power window wiring is molded to have shrunk a little that the holes are all too big to hold them. I would suggest drilling smaller holes then sneaking up to a final size that allows the rubber plug to stay in.

T/ASteveg31 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 23, 2011 - 11:48:51 AM »

I will check the rubber size. Still on the hunt for an angle dill to cut the holes. Thanks for the heads up. Hope is all well.

tommyg29 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 31, 2011 - 06:44:08 PM »

I have a similar problem with my "plugs". They seem slightly too small for the hole and wont stay in.
Make sure you catch/vacuum all the metal shavings before allowing them to drop inside the door.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #13 on:** April 02, 2011 - 07:19:33 AM »

Quote from: tommyg29 on March 31, 2011 - 06:44:08 PM

I have a similar problem with my "plugs". They seem slightly too small for the hole and wont stay in.

I'm at the point where I have to install mine back in my project and the holes I punched with a knock out cutter are too small for the "plug", so I thought about grinding the hole a little bat a time till the plug locks in it. Problem is that the rubber is as hard as a rock and the groove that the hole locks into is tiny. It might be easier for me to shave down the rubber with a grinder but then I hate modifying an original 40 yr old part. Maybe you can glue a tight o-ring on the inside to hold it against the inside of the door and hinge support. The wires are so stiff though that it might pull off everytime the door is moved to open or close. Something like windshield urethane should hold it. It sets up FAST, then softens with a heat gun if you ever have to get it off.

brads70 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 02, 2011 - 08:35:40 AM »

Just lurking and learning as someday I might do the power windows thing.... What about weather striping adhesive, like what the trunk seals are held in with?

Author Topic: Power Windows (Read 4322 times)

T/ASteveg31

Power Windows

ShelbyDogg

Re: Power Windows

T/ASteveg31

Re: Power Windows

ShelbyDogg

Re: Power Windows

T/ASteveg31

Re: Power Windows

ShelbyDogg

Re: Power Windows

T/ASteveg31

Re: Power Windows

ShelbyDogg

Re: Power Windows

ShelbyDogg

Re: Power Windows

T/ASteveg31

Re: Power Windows

ShelbyDogg

Re: Power Windows

T/ASteveg31

Re: Power Windows

tommyg29

Re: Power Windows

ShelbyDogg

Re: Power Windows

brads70

Re: Power Windows